VIDEO- Recessing Head Block for Neck Bolts

Beau Hannam Ukuleles

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In this video, I show the tool and method I use to recess the neck bolt hole in the head block so I can overlay the head block with a decorative label with wax seal (as shown).

Some drill this recess prior to gluing the head block to the sides but I much prefer to do it at this stage as it allows more freedom on the fly to change the thickness of the body.


3/4" Counterbore for head block neck bolts-
http://www.rockler.com/pen-mill-barrel-trimmers

Add a 10"(ish) steel rod and tighten with allen key. Drill hole(s) in headblock, insert the counterbore through the soundhole. Chuck bit. Put drill in reverse. Drill a 1/8 deep counterbore.

Bolts-
http://www.rockler.com/connector-bolts-statuary-bronze-connector-bolts

Brass inserts with 1/4"-20 thread-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00207NF6W/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
or
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/threaded-insert-brass-1-4-x-20-8-piece

Insert installer with matching 1/4"-20 thread-
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/t-wrench-for-1-4-20-inserts

Dowel jig for perfect insert installment- this is the best thing to use to get the inserts in perfectly perpendicular/straight on the X and Y.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=dowel


 
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I remember a year or two back, Ken Timms showed his diy counterbore he made from one of the furniture bolts, maybe he'll chip in here with a picture. Certainly saves a lot of money, those shown in Beau's video cost a small fortune over here in the UK.
 
I managed to find a picture of the one I made at the time, based on Ken's idea. Basically, it's shaping the end of the connector bolt to form 2 cutting edges.
P1000821.jpg, P1000820.jpg
Remember, the cutting edges need to rotate in an anti-clockwise direction, i.e. the opposite from a normal forstner bit for example. Unless of course, you want to run you drill in reverse.
 
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Recessing the bolt and covering it with a paper label and wax seal makes a nice look, but that nice look, label and all, will be rather 'compromised' if one ever needs to take the neck off, and isn't that half the reason to do a bolt-on? So you can take the neck off easily?
 
Recessing the bolt and covering it with a paper label and wax seal makes a nice look, but that nice look, label and all, will be rather 'compromised' if one ever needs to take the neck off, and isn't that half the reason to do a bolt-on? So you can take the neck off easily?

Just rip the label off. It is just paper lightly glued to the head block. I should be around for a few decades more to make others :)

Those inserts (the E-Z Lok 400-4 Threaded Insert,) look identical to the ones I actually use which are from my local hardware store.

DO the EE-Z Lok 400-004 do a 1/4" 20 thread??
 
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Yes, the E-Z Loc has a 1/4 20 thread. I find the threads much thinner and sharper than anything from various local hardware stores. Maybe you have better hardware stores out there in the rough-and-tumble west. If you'd like I'll send you an E-Z Loc sample.
 
Yes, the E-Z Loc has a 1/4 20 thread. I find the threads much thinner and sharper than anything from various local hardware stores. Maybe you have better hardware stores out there in the rough-and-tumble west. If you'd like I'll send you an E-Z Loc sample.

Found em- thanks.
The ones i get locally are very sharp and the threads are quite long (they stick out a fair bit)- ive seen some threaded inserts where the thread is tiny and only like 1 /32nd long.

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-I...hreaded+Insert,+1/4"-20,industrial,225&sr=1-3
 
Those do look identical to the ones I get at the local ACE hardware.
 
You make such beautiful instruments.

Why don't you recess the neck bolt hole before gluing on the top? It seems like it would be easier.
 
You make such beautiful instruments.

Why don't you recess the neck bolt hole before gluing on the top? It seems like it would be easier.

Thanks.

I also don't pre drill/recess the head block for 4 reasons.

1- I might glue in the head block it slightly off center.
2- I might route the mortise slightly off center.
3- The depth of all my instruments at the heel is never the same (always close, but never the same. Same with the butt end)
4- Doing it this way is super easy, it takes no longer then doing it at any other stage, and no matter where everything has been glued and routed, i can drill it right where i want/it needs to be on that instrument on the X and Y axis.
 
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