Help with keeping a simple uke in tune

captain-janeway

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I created a banjo uke out of a Remo drumhead, a pirated uke neck and a handmade mahogany tailpiece.
It plays pretty well, I have the 12th fret strings height at 3mm.
Neck seems sturdy and I've tightened up all the tuning pegs. Strings have been on long enough they should be stretched.
Problem is that I can tune it up, leave it sit overnight and it's out of tune next time I go to use it. Don't have that problem with my other ukes.
How does mahogany hold up as a tailpiece? It's the only thing I can think is maybe the string slots open some with string pressure.
Could you all take a look for me?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VZSuo2wXVtziHH3QA
 
I created a banjo uke out of a Remo drumhead, a pirated uke neck and a handmade mahogany tailpiece.
It plays pretty well, I have the 12th fret strings height at 3mm.
Neck seems sturdy and I've tightened up all the tuning pegs. Strings have been on long enough they should be stretched.
Problem is that I can tune it up, leave it sit overnight and it's out of tune next time I go to use it. Don't have that problem with my other ukes.
How does mahogany hold up as a tailpiece? It's the only thing I can think is maybe the string slots open some with string pressure.
Could you all take a look for me?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VZSuo2wXVtziHH3QA

I suspect it is the knots pulling into the tailpiece that is the issue. A simple fix is to buy yourself a no knot tailpiece for 20 bucks and your problems should be over. I use a five string tail because I tie beads on and they pull tight between the lugs. You could just use a four striing tail but you need to tie the strings onto the lugs instead. I utilize the four spaces between the five lugs if you get me.
 
Thanks Dennis. Looked at those and trying to find one that doesn't need to hook to a tuning rim. I'll give one another shot. Looked at a bunch of sites for tailpiece ideas and just haven't found one that fits quite right. I'll keep at it.
 
Thanks Dennis. Looked at those and trying to find one that doesn't need to hook to a tuning rim. I'll give one another shot. Looked at a bunch of sites for tailpiece ideas and just haven't found one that fits quite right. I'll keep at it.

They don't need to hook onto a tension rim they can sit above it by a 16th. That way it won't interfere with the head.
 
I agree with Dennis (above). A different tailpiece may be the answer. From your photos it appears that your tailpiece is secured by only one bolt, and if this is, in fact, the case then we have a situation where the strongest string tensions could potentially rotate the tailpiece and so alter the tension of all strings. Most commercial tailpieces incorporate a right-angled design that eliminates the potential of rotation. To see if this is a possibility, firmly grip your mahogany tailpiece and try to twist it …. if it moves (even slightly) this is potentially a contributor to your problem.
 
I agree with Dennis (above). A different tailpiece may be the answer. From your photos it appears that your tailpiece is secured by only one bolt, and if this is, in fact, the case then we have a situation where the strongest string tensions could potentially rotate the tailpiece and so alter the tension of all strings. Most commercial tailpieces incorporate a right-angled design that eliminates the potential of rotation. To see if this is a possibility, firmly grip your mahogany tailpiece and try to twist it …. if it moves (even slightly) this is potentially a contributor to your problem.

I really have to move it hard to get movement. Unless I had a really wide tailpiece I can't see using more than one bolt. I would think it would split the wood. That drum is only 2" deep. Most tailpieces seem to be on with one bolt/screw. Have an example of the tailpiece you're talking about? thanks.
 
I suspect it is the knots pulling into the tailpiece that is the issue. A simple fix is to buy yourself a no knot tailpiece for 20 bucks and your problems should be over. I use a five string tail because I tie beads on and they pull tight between the lugs. You could just use a four striing tail but you need to tie the strings onto the lugs instead. I utilize the four spaces between the five lugs if you get me.

Can't figure a way to attach one of these:
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_an...pieces_for_Banjo/No_Knot_Banjo_Tailpiece.html
Maybe a mandolin tailpiece? Guess I'll have to round the edges since these are made for steel strings.
https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Bridges_and_Tailpieces_for_Mandolin/Scalloped_Mandolin_Tailpiece.html
 
Ok, this isn't done, so I can't absolutely vouch that it will work. However, this is what I'm doing for a banjo uke that I'm currently building. The tailpiece and the "bracket" that hold it are both maple. The tailpiece will extend horizontally over the drum surface. It will be drilled straight through (top to bottom) with four holes for the strings. The strings will be retained by simple knots, or maybe beads, on the top of the tailpiece. They will emerge from under the tailpiece before going over the bridge, etc. So just holes sized to the string gauges, no slots. The "bracket" piece and tailpiece will both be reinforced by a metal washer that will be epoxied in where the screw goes, so hopefully the string tension will not break either of them. My drum has a metal rim, but it ends up sitting below the drum surface, and so the tailpiece needs to be raised slightly above it. I had intended to hold the bracket part on with one bolt. Hopefully that works and doesn't allow any movement of that part. The tailpiece itself will be able to swivel on the screw that holds it to the bracket part.

I did a bunch of Google searching on wooden tailpieces, and this looked to be the best design for what I'm building. I found a high-end custom banjo maker who makes similar wooden tailpieces, although he uses a metal bolt and bracket to hold the tailpiece to the drum. I'm not sure if it's against the rules to link to another forum, but if it's ok, I could link to a forum post showing a couple of those.

I can update you in a week or so if this approach is successful.

Best of luck!
Jim

Edit: Don't know if it matters to keeping the banjo in tune, but I would put a little shim under the right side of the neck (as you're facing the banjo) to see if that makes the strings center better on the neck.

IMG_20190518_143453400.jpg
 
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OK. This is the answer.
Sorry but this ridiculous over the top answer to possible spam seem to be not allowing any links. Admin it is 2019 for heavens sake!
All are available in Brass or Nickle plate.
Rickard banjos Canada
One tailpiece
One Ball bracket shoe
One rim bolt.
This is one of the simplest methods for a tailpiece assembly it is all I use. Checkout as many banjo photos as you like most will have something similar to this. You may all experiment until the cows come home with various wooden contraptions, however this works which is why builders who do this for a living use it. I use it but don't make a living :)
 

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I really have to move it hard to get movement. Unless I had a really wide tailpiece I can't see using more than one bolt. I would think it would split the wood. That drum is only 2" deep. Most tailpieces seem to be on with one bolt/screw. Have an example of the tailpiece you're talking about? thanks.

This is an example of the type of tailpiece that I am referring to. Note that the right-angle locks over the rim preventing rotation.IMG_0130.jpg
 
Thanks to all of you. Since you see photos of hardware not actually attached to banjos I've been thinking that base tuner attached to a rim rod along the bottom of the pot. That's why I was thinking it wouldn't work. Now it make more sense.
This thing plays actually pretty well for a $50 bunch of parts. It's much louder and sounds more banjo-ey than a Firefly. Those seem kind of buzzy to me, and mine has a 10" head.
I'll remember this for my cookie tin ukes. They're much quieter, but they're just kind of fun to make and give away. Kids love 'em!
Thanks again!!
 
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