Overlooked features

I would also like to try both soundport and radius. I seem to recall reading that a radius is better for barre chords but makes fingerpicking harder. That would disqualify it for me. Any info on that would be of interest to me.

By the way of turning a sow’s ear into a silk purse I know this is highly unlikely to be a problem for me in the real world.
 
OK here goes in response to the Gear Guru’s suggestions:
1. I am wondering about compound radius vs radius as the way to go for radiussed fretboards. Does anyone have experiences with either. I wonder what 12" or 10" radii would be like. Any comments? My pono has a 16" radius but that seems almost flat. However it is a smidgen easier to Barre chords.
2. In talking to different luthiers they mostly don't seem to build with a zero fret. So I have no opinion and leave the zero fret to the builder.
3. As I have shorter fingers I prefer the 1-3/8 but do play 1-1/2 nut width ukes
4. Yes to Side Dots and I like Fretboard markers too.
5. I don't presently own a ukelele with a side sound port but I hope the next one will have one. :) For those with instruments with side ports would you go back to no side port?

If others in the community would respond to 1 & 5 that would be great
 
Rats, I overlooked all five. Guess I'll have to buy more ukes and be more aware the next time.
 
Interesting list.

1. Radius fretboard is more personal. One day I may try one. I’ve played guitar for a long time so it might be beneficial. Not sure if the easier barre offsets fingerstyle melodies.

2. Zero fret is an odd one. His logic on higher strings because of the nut is pretty bogus and he loses so much credibility. Maybe he’s never heard of nut files. There might be a slightly more consistent sound with zero fret, I don’t know. Hard to say since there is no fretting pressure on the zero fret. If it is more a material difference, I guess someone can use a brass nut.

Fretboard width is personal preference. I do like a slightly wider nut. That said, In certain circles, a wider nut is more beginner oriented.

Side dots are really nice if they are done right. If pearl or abalone is used they need to be turned to best reflect available light toward the player. Some builders just put them there and in slightly lower light they reflect differently. Some not very well.

Side ports are nice and is the one item I agree with.

I would hope that a higher end ukulele would have a side bevel for comfort and possibly a cut-away for access to higher frets. For some people certain bridges, string attachment, are more important.

John
 
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I only have one uke with a slight radiused fretboard, and that's my LoPrinzi concert.
It's not much of a radius, but paired with the 36mm nut I do prefer it.

When I have a LoPrinzi soprano made, I plan on trying a radiused fretboard on that as well.
I've read where some people think it's unnecessary on a soprano, but I still kinda want to try it.

I would really like to try a zero-fret, and a side sound port eventually.
 
Rats, I overlooked all five. Guess I'll have to buy more ukes and be more aware the next time.

Ditto! I'll have to buy more too, to check out all these great features. I'm particularly interested in radiused fretboard and side ports. Hmm....
 
I have radiused fretboard tenor ukes as well as flat. I do notice it when making barred chords. I don't have an opinion on fingerstyle versus strum because I'm only a rank beginner fingerpicker.

I find that really large side sound ports can be too loud. So loud that some hurt my ears. The sound port on my Pono Mahogany/Cedar Master is smaller and works very well. Just right.
 
I've tried ukes with a radiused fretboard and a zero fret (I have one now) but I don't notice much difference at all really! So can take it or leave it. Yes to side dots and I also like markers on the fretboard. I like a side sound port but again it's not a deal breaker. But width I'm also not too bothered about if it's comfortable to play and the sound is right.
 
I'm mostly flexible, fine with either flat or radius, zero fret or not, side sound hole or not, I have only one with multiple side sound holes all the way around the bouts with a larger one in the lower cutaway. I do prefer wider string space, either with a wider neck/nut or wider cut spacing. I also prefer side and fret markers, 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, 15.

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This is Michael Kohan in Los Angeles, Beverly West near the Beverly Center
9 tenor cutaway ukes, 5 acoustic bass ukes, 11 solid body bass ukes, 9 mini electric bass guitars (Total: 34)

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when I designed my custom uke I was cognizant of these matters but I eschewed most of them.

1. radius fret board--what's the point? I don't have a problem with barres and wouldn't want to make finger picking any harder than necessary
2. zero-fret didn't impress me
3. I didn't care about nut width. I figured I would adapt to whatever width the luthier chose
4. sound port wasn't practical for me because I always play with a strap and often rest my forearm atop the ukulele when playing which would muffle a sound port
5. I hate fret markers. I can't see them so why should they exist? I don't have fret markers but I have side markers on all the pentatonic frets: 3,5,7, 10 (not 9), 12, 15, 17 and 19.

One addition I would be interested in is a feature I saw on a Jay Lichty ukulele. It was a pad on the edge of the ukulele. Maybe it was a pad within the cutaway. I was kind of struck by the uniqueness of that but I would be loathe to spend the $10000 for it.
 
My Iriguchi has a slight radius, a zero fret, a soundport, and a thicker neck which is really ideal for my fingers. I’m glad David Iriguchi didn’t overlook these things, I surely would have.
 
Radius - I can’t tell the difference.
Zero fret - I can’t tell the difference.
Nut width - I prefer 1-1/2”, but I can live with 1-3/8”.
Side fret markers - They’re nice but not necessary.
Sound port - Yes, definitely, I love it.
(Arm rest - Yes, definitely, I love it.)
 
*Radius can be a personal thing but I strongly prefer it. I think the statement about making fingerpicking harder is false. Sure classical guitars are flat but ALL steel string guitars have a radius fretboard. There are a lot of amazing fingerstyle players, Tommy Emmanuel as an example. Think of the electric guitar guys that shred up and down the fretboard with a 9" or 7" radius. I have 16, 14, 12 and compound radius and I don't notice much difference between them. They all make barr chords easier for me.
* Zero fret is really a builders philosophy or preference, the three LfdM that I own have them. Luis explains the benefit as consistent action height and being able to change to any diameter string and the action height remains the same.
*I like a 1-3/8" nut width, anything wider is a deal breaker for me.
*Side sound port is highly desirable to me. It is like a personal monitor, you hear the sound of your uke like those standing in front of it do. It does make a difference and every custom I have ordered gets one.
*Side dot markers are considered the players marker so yes I always get them. On customs I leave the fretboard markers off, you only need the side dots.
 
I have a couple with the sound port, but I can't say it makes a difference in sound, although it must. Does that mean that the "audience" get reduced volume? :)

All ukes should have side dots. I drilled the holes and installed the thin plastic dots on a uke I made, but I wouldn't want to attempt that on a good one. I have those little rub-on dots, but I've never used them.

I don't barre enough that I've noticed a difference using a radiused fretboard. If I was selling a uke, I suppose that would be an advantage.
 
*Radius can be a personal thing but I strongly prefer it. I think the statement about making fingerpicking harder is false. Sure classical guitars are flat but ALL steel string guitars have a radius fretboard. There are a lot of amazing fingerstyle players, Tommy Emmanuel as an example. Think of the electric guitar guys that shred up and down the fretboard with a 9" or 7" radius. I have 16, 14, 12 and compound radius and I don't notice much difference between them. They all make barr chords easier for me.
* Zero fret is really a builders philosophy or preference, the three LfdM that I own have them. Luis explains the benefit as consistent action height and being able to change to any diameter string and the action height remains the same.
*I like a 1-3/8" nut width, anything wider is a deal breaker for me.
*Side sound port is highly desirable to me. It is like a personal monitor, you hear the sound of your uke like those standing in front of it do. It does make a difference and every custom I have ordered gets one.
*Side dot markers are considered the players marker so yes I always get them. On customs I leave the fretboard markers off, you only need the side dots.

I’m with Dave on most of these preferences. Personally I like wider nut widths. My last custom has a 40mm width (wider than 1&1/2 inches). My last few custom builds had either no fretboard markers or just one decorative one at the 12 fret. Side sound ports are wonderful IMO.
 
Radius - my Moon Bird has a very minimal radius. It feels comfortable, but not super noticeable. I'd like to test drive a uke with more radius to see how it feels before ordering one.

Zero fret - No experience with one.

Neck width/nut size - My favorite is middle ground - 1 7/16". Not too narrow, not too wide. 1 1/2" is fine. My least favorite is 1 3/8". I like a medium neck profile. Chunky or squared off necks bother me.

Side sound port - I have had a uke with one and liked it. I'd probably ask for one on a custom in the future.

Fret markers - I prefer both top and side markers, but side markers are a must. My KoAloha LN soprano has a koa fretboard with mango top fret markers that blend in so much so that they are barely visible while playing. Very pretty to look at though. The side dots on it are super tiny, so I supplemented with stick on dots. My Blackbird Clara has no top markers, but the side dots are very easy to see & very useful. I always thought I wanted a top & side marker on the 3rd fret, but few ukuleles have them, so I've gotten used to not having them.
 
Radius fretboard is my preference. I'm curious why some of you think that it makes fingerpicking harder? I fingerpick, and have done so with and without a radius, and it didn't make a difference for my right hand which does the fingerpicking, but the radius helps my left hand on the fretboard.

Zero fret. Never have tried a ukulele with one. So far, I'm neutral on that one from reading about it.

Wider neck. Nope. I prefer 1 3/8", though that's not the only factor that goes into what makes a neck comfortable. I tried 1 1/2", and it was definitely too wide for me. Great ukulele, but I had to sell it.

Extra side dots. I definitely want the standard side dots, but extra ones might be distracting? I'm not sure what the author considers "extra."

Sound port. I like sound ports, but it's not a requirement by any means. If ordering a custom, I would ask for one, though.
 
-Radius fretboard: didn’t know what I was missing, but quite like the 12’ (I think slightly compound?) radius on my Cocobolo.

-Zero fret: intrigued, but no experience with them so not high on my “must have” list.

-Neck width: prefer 1-1/2”, but can make due with whatever. String spacing is a bit more of a concern for me, but not by much.

-Side dots: love ‘em, can’t get enough of ‘em! Could care less about the face of the fretboard, but prefer them to either be as small as possible, a unique design/inlay, or the simple “bar” that wraps from the face to the side.

-Sound port: a must have for me on any custom build I may commission. I wish more “stock” models had them as standard, but I don’t mind not having them.
 
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