back of the headstock ideas please

Timbuck

Timbuck

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Now that I no longer own the Jet 10-20 drum sander that i used a lot for sanding down the headstock backs to thickness. I'm now looking for alternative methods..eg: SafeT planer, Spindle sander, Lathe with a drum sander, belt sander. disc sander in bench drill, etc: what is the best for a production run ? idea's please.
 
When I adhered to the 'hand tool only' approach for guitar, I used a 2 1/2” plane obliquely across the grain. I trued the face and took the bulk off the back, then did the transitioning with files and paper.
I then acquired a bench belt sander, and turned a half hour job into a ten minute job, but was never happy with getting the two faces truly flat and parallel and had to resort to hand planing to prepare the surfaces for veneers.
For ukulele, I now use a Safe-T-Planer for the bulk and hand tools for the transition. It's a bit fiddly but not difficult. The drill press disk sander does the job just as well.... it takes longer, but needs less tidying up.
 
I have a pretty standard hand power drill and a separate drill press that the power drill fits into.

I have a drum sander kit with arbors and cylindrical sanding sheets that fit over the arbor and then the arbor is expanded to grip the sanding material.

This is then filled into the drill chuck and then I clamped a piece of wood on the drill press to give the thickness required between it and the sander material.

This is a similar arbor kit to the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/inch-Long-Sa...ing+arbor+kit&qid=1561116532&s=gateway&sr=8-6

My drill press adaptor is similar to this

https://www.amazon.com/AMYAMY-Works...ay&sprefix=Power+drill+drill+,aps,218&sr=8-32
 
Bandsaw close to finished thickness, then bobbin sander with fence clamped to the table. The top face is finished flat with a handplane and sanding board beforehand.

P1090229.jpg

Sorry the picture is a bit out of focus, but you get the idea!
 
I made this add on jiggery by using a hinge with a twisty thing. WOrks a treat.

30727996_1680862348669138_373408030127030272_n.jpg
30727426_1680862368669136_7874194892170199040_n.jpg
 
mikeyb2 said:
Is that method not possible on the 16-32 ? I've never tried it myself.
Click to expand...
No it's not feasible on my 16-32 as the pinch rollers and dust guard get in the way...I think the Safe T planer is the way to go, as these head stocks are only 65mm wide.....I'll give it a bit more thought.
 
Timbuck said:
that one looks interesting Beau...did you know that the rollers on the sander are radiused slightly (barrel shape)...I don't suppose it would matter a lot tho.
Click to expand...

I didn't know that- but that explains why there is a slight dip in the middle- which i take a flat block to with 80 grit and its gone in 5 strokes.
 
Some more pics- I only had a ready made neck to use. I usually do this with the fingerboard glued on so i have to use a 1/8" (3mm) piece of packer on the headstock which i just hold by hand.- i end the curve of the volute on the headstock side nut, just below it.

65041984_2183452005041611_6429914106261667840_n.jpg
64585298_351180415567816_8378894965819834368_n.jpg
65235090_327162788223497_758425318200442880_n.jpg
65280246_404429636854805_7915653739032084480_n.jpg
 
Drum sander in the drill press and a fence.Easy Peasy.
 
You might want to wait for Pete's photo, but SMD currently is advertising 30% off on the safety-planer. I bought one a couple of years ago and never got around to using. It sits in a box to this day.

StewMac_Safe-T-Planer.jpg
 
Safe T Planers are great tools when used with a platten sander in the drill press - but we've been here before haven't we? The least effective for me was rigging up a fence on the oscillating sander.
 
Last edited:
Timbuck said:
No it's not feasible on my 16-32 as the pinch rollers and dust guard get in the way...I think the Safe T planer is the way to go, as these head stocks are only 65mm wide.....I'll give it a bit more thought.
Click to expand...

Ken, I sand mine the same way as you showed on your video but without the sled. I simply ground away some of the metal housing on my 16/32 to allow for it.
 
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