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Thread: Least favorite bridge for string change

  1. #1
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    Default Least favorite bridge for string change

    Having just changed strings on a string through bridge, I got to thinking about which bridges I dislike most for string changes.

    I find the tie bridge the easiest and quickest for me to change.

    The only thing that really slows down the string through bridge is trying to get the string out of the sound hole. Any tips on that? I guess it just takes patience and luck.

    I don't currently have a ukulele with bridge pins, but don't recall that being a problem when I had one.

    The slotted bridge is, for me, the pickiest bridge. You have to get the knot so it's not too big, and not too small. The Goldilocks principle. Sometimes that's not a problem at all, and sometimes it takes more than one try for at least one string. I think I always cringe when tuning up initially, wondering if the string will pop out and hit me. I try to keep notes in the case on what I did to get it right to help with the next string change.

    I like the look of the string through bridge the best, but would buy a ukulele with any bridge type if I like the ukulele.

  2. #2
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    I find through the bridge the easiest. Some luthiers believe it is the most stable method for the bridge. I dislike tie bridges...………...it's a dexterity issue for me

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevejfc View Post
    I find through the bridge the easiest. Some luthiers believe it is the most stable method for the bridge. I dislike tie bridges...………...it's a dexterity issue for me
    Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?

  4. #4
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    A pin bridge or a slotted bridge would both be deal breakers for me. When I was shopping for ukes I rejected some that I might have otherwise bought because they had either a pin or slotted bridge. A tie bridge is easiest for changing strings and the string through bridge would be the tidiest/neatest looking bridge.
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  5. #5
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    I hate bridge pins.. a pin flying off on a uke you line is very unnerving..
    discussed here: https://forum.ukuleleunderground.com...l-used-on-ukes

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joyful Uke View Post
    Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?
    A hemostat might be helpful if you're having trouble getting that string. They can be found all over the internet and can be had for very reasonable prices if you shop around.

    4355_1.jpg
    Ohana CK-42R - all-solid concert, sinker redwood top, rosewood body, maple binding, Ltd. Edition
    Kala KA-FMCG- solid/lam concert, spruce top, spalted flame maple body, mahogany binding
    Ohana CK-120G - all-solid concert, 5A acacia top sides and back, mahogany binding, Limited Edition
    Ohana SK-30M - all-solid mahogany long neck soprano (concert scale)
    Romero ST - solid/lam concert, spruce top, mahogany body

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikelz777 View Post
    A hemostat might be helpful if you're having trouble getting that string. They can be found all over the internet and can be had for very reasonable prices if you shop around.

    4355_1.jpg
    That's actually what I used for this string change, and it did help.

    I still feel like I needed an extra hand, as I held a flashlight in my mouth so I could shine a light in the sound hole so I could see the string more easily. Maybe I just need better vision. LOL.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joyful Uke View Post
    Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?
    I find that if you orient the string to follow the natural curvature of the string from the package while restringing, it will usually pop right up through the soundhole. If not, needlenose pliers can easily grab it. I recommend using a small bead on the string inside the soundhole, then tie a big knot, and be sure to snip the excess, to eliminate any possible buzzing of a long string end inside.

    IMO, thru bridge stringing will prevent a bridge from popping off, compared to a tie-bar. I've had that happen, but not since I re-glued it, and drilled holes to convert to string-thru.
    John

  9. #9
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    I greatly prefer a traditional tie block bridge on my classical guitars and ukuleles. I own two string through bridge guitars and two ukuleles and it takes me two to three times longer to change the strings compared to a tie block. Often the first string gets jammed under the bridge plate. I now use a dad burn bead on the string to prevent a lot of cussing as I attempt to free it by jamming a needle through the hole. With my guitars I can get my fingers in the sound hole and grab the string if needed. On my ukuleles the hole is too small so I use a long pair of Chinese style chopsticks to grab elusive strings.

    With all that said, I like the neat look of the string through bridge and not having to worry about snagging a string with my shirt sleeve during a palm mute.

    Oddly enough, after 5 decades of playing and many dozens of instruments, I've only had one bridge start to come unglued, and it was a string through bridge on a Romero Creations parlor guitar (RC replaced it),

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joyful Uke View Post
    Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?
    Assuming it's an entire string change: Take off all the old strings. Push each new string through the bridge up toward the sound hole. Bead and knot. When all 4 are bead and knotted, then attach each to the tuners. I've found it fairly easy to grab the sting ends without strings already over the sound hole. Replacing just one string is a pain as the other 3 are in the way of the sound hole.

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