Least favorite bridge for string change

Joyful Uke

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Having just changed strings on a string through bridge, I got to thinking about which bridges I dislike most for string changes.

I find the tie bridge the easiest and quickest for me to change.

The only thing that really slows down the string through bridge is trying to get the string out of the sound hole. Any tips on that? I guess it just takes patience and luck.

I don't currently have a ukulele with bridge pins, but don't recall that being a problem when I had one.

The slotted bridge is, for me, the pickiest bridge. You have to get the knot so it's not too big, and not too small. The Goldilocks principle. Sometimes that's not a problem at all, and sometimes it takes more than one try for at least one string. I think I always cringe when tuning up initially, wondering if the string will pop out and hit me. I try to keep notes in the case on what I did to get it right to help with the next string change.

I like the look of the string through bridge the best, but would buy a ukulele with any bridge type if I like the ukulele.
 
I find through the bridge the easiest. Some luthiers believe it is the most stable method for the bridge. I dislike tie bridges...………...it's a dexterity issue for me:confused:
 
I find through the bridge the easiest. Some luthiers believe it is the most stable method for the bridge. I dislike tie bridges...………...it's a dexterity issue for me:confused:

Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?
 
A pin bridge or a slotted bridge would both be deal breakers for me. When I was shopping for ukes I rejected some that I might have otherwise bought because they had either a pin or slotted bridge. A tie bridge is easiest for changing strings and the string through bridge would be the tidiest/neatest looking bridge.
 
Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?

A hemostat might be helpful if you're having trouble getting that string. They can be found all over the internet and can be had for very reasonable prices if you shop around.

4355_1.jpg
 
A hemostat might be helpful if you're having trouble getting that string. They can be found all over the internet and can be had for very reasonable prices if you shop around.

View attachment 119456

That's actually what I used for this string change, and it did help.

I still feel like I needed an extra hand, as I held a flashlight in my mouth so I could shine a light in the sound hole so I could see the string more easily. Maybe I just need better vision. LOL.
 
Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?

I find that if you orient the string to follow the natural curvature of the string from the package while restringing, it will usually pop right up through the soundhole. If not, needlenose pliers can easily grab it. I recommend using a small bead on the string inside the soundhole, then tie a big knot, and be sure to snip the excess, to eliminate any possible buzzing of a long string end inside.

IMO, thru bridge stringing will prevent a bridge from popping off, compared to a tie-bar. I've had that happen, but not since I re-glued it, and drilled holes to convert to string-thru.
 
I greatly prefer a traditional tie block bridge on my classical guitars and ukuleles. I own two string through bridge guitars and two ukuleles and it takes me two to three times longer to change the strings compared to a tie block. Often the first string gets jammed under the bridge plate. I now use a dad burn bead on the string to prevent a lot of cussing as I attempt to free it by jamming a needle through the hole. With my guitars I can get my fingers in the sound hole and grab the string if needed. On my ukuleles the hole is too small so I use a long pair of Chinese style chopsticks to grab elusive strings.

With all that said, I like the neat look of the string through bridge and not having to worry about snagging a string with my shirt sleeve during a palm mute.

Oddly enough, after 5 decades of playing and many dozens of instruments, I've only had one bridge start to come unglued, and it was a string through bridge on a Romero Creations parlor guitar (RC replaced it),
 
Any tips for getting the string out of the sound hole without a lot of patience required?

Assuming it's an entire string change: Take off all the old strings. Push each new string through the bridge up toward the sound hole. Bead and knot. When all 4 are bead and knotted, then attach each to the tuners. I've found it fairly easy to grab the sting ends without strings already over the sound hole. Replacing just one string is a pain as the other 3 are in the way of the sound hole.
 
I have an ukulele with an 8 hole tie bridge. It has already popped off the top once.
I don't ever want another tie bridge, this type has become a deal breaker for me.
I won't offer to restring any more friends' ukes with them either...
Through the body stringing is a piece of cake.
 
String through body is better than Tie bridge which is better than Slotted bridge, in my opinion. Through body just works. Once you figure it out the first time, it's dead simple and very secure. Tie bridge is pretty straightforward too, once you figure out the way to tie it. Slotted is just way, way too fiddly. Easy to make the knot too small (particularly on the A string) or too big (I'm looking at you, C string...) I have no real experience with bridge pins, but that is also by choice. I just don't like the aesthetics of them, so I have avoided them.

I have a Kamaka HF-2 with a slotted bridge, purchased used, that has had to have two slots repaired due to the slots being a bit chewed up and no longer holding knots. It is the only instrument that I get anxious about when it comes time for a string change. I wish it were at least a tie bridge... (This is pretty much the only thing that I don't love about that instrument, but I am a guy who *loves* trying out new strings so it is pretty frustrating for me.)
 
A hemostat might be helpful if you're having trouble getting that string. They can be found all over the internet and can be had for very reasonable prices if you shop around.

View attachment 119456

Exactly what I use on my string-throughs.
I already had a few different sizes so I use the long 9in curved pair on the tenor, and my smaller 6in curved pair on the soprano.

String-through is definitely my preferred bridge style. With slotted being my second.
 
A tie bridge is a safe choice, just have to learn how to tie the strings. Construction wise the slotted bridge is the weakest. And string through is the strongest but a bother, what if scratch strings while fishing the ends out from sound hole. Pin bridge is strong too, but it is the ugliest.
 
I've read that one advantage of strings that don't go through the bridge is that the bridge can pop off if the uke takes a hard jolt. I don't know if that's a real concern, but I read a couple of articles that were in favor of glued-on bridges, rather than screwed-on for that reason.

I prefer through the bridge or tied on. Getting the right size knot is a nuisance, especially if the slots are worn a bit wider.
 
Since getting the Tiny tenor, I've come to appreciate through-the-bridge stringing, even though I'd gotten used to tie bridges. I don't understand all the complaints about fishing expeditions, though. If I hold the instrument tail end up, soundhole facing me, as I keep feeding the string through the bridge, it eventually appears right at or just behind the soundhole, and I grab it with my fingers. Easy peasy, no extra tools needed.

bratsche
 
Not a fan of pin bridges. On steel string acoustic guitars, they’re the most common. Thankfully this does not hold true with ukuleles. The only one I owned, a Kanile’a Islander, didn’t stay with me that long.
 
Having just changed strings on a string through bridge, I got to thinking about which bridges I dislike most for string changes.

I find the tie bridge the easiest and quickest for me to change.

The only thing that really slows down the string through bridge is trying to get the string out of the sound hole. Any tips on that? I guess it just takes patience and luck.

I don't currently have a ukulele with bridge pins, but don't recall that being a problem when I had one.

The slotted bridge is, for me, the pickiest bridge. You have to get the knot so it's not too big, and not too small. The Goldilocks principle. Sometimes that's not a problem at all, and sometimes it takes more than one try for at least one string. I think I always cringe when tuning up initially, wondering if the string will pop out and hit me. I try to keep notes in the case on what I did to get it right to help with the next string change.

I like the look of the string through bridge the best, but would buy a ukulele with any bridge type if I like the ukulele.

These are my thoughts exactly!
 
Always amazed by the lack of love for slotted bridges. Okay, so I figured out the first time that I always need a bigger knot for the A string, but I guess my ukes have a better bridge design than some others so haven't had any other issues. I just like the look of them; so much cleaner than a tie bridge and find the tying more fiddly than a quick knot. I guess I'm in the minority. :(
 
Always amazed by the lack of love for slotted bridges. Okay, so I figured out the first time that I always need a bigger knot for the A string, but I guess my ukes have a better bridge design than some others so haven't had any other issues. I just like the look of them; so much cleaner than a tie bridge and find the tying more fiddly than a quick knot. I guess I'm in the minority. :(

I love the look of slotted bridges also, and knock on wood, I haven't had any problems with any of mine yet.
 
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