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Thread: Veneer softener

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbuck View Post
    I'm making an Ebony fretboard only .096" thick and it had developed a cross grain curvature making it difficult to press in the frets...So veneer softener to the rescue.. brushed some on the back and clamped hard between two flat surfaces and a couple of hours later it came out as flat as a motorway hedgehog
    What a coincidence! I have had a block of ebony that I purchased years ago, hanging around the shop that I just took off the shelf yesterday, contemplating use as a fretboard. One of the things I thought about was how thick I would make it. My recent ukes all have teak fretboards, which has worked out quite well, but they are considerably thicker than .096" you specify (about 2.4+ mm?).

    I am wondering if you are going to bind the fretboard? Also, is .096" thick enough to hold the tang of the fret with enough backing? Seems like it would be a bit problematic, no?

    Thanks!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by eclipsme View Post
    What a coincidence! I have had a block of ebony that I purchased years ago, hanging around the shop that I just took off the shelf yesterday, contemplating use as a fretboard. One of the things I thought about was how thick I would make it. My recent ukes all have teak fretboards, which has worked out quite well, but they are considerably thicker than .096" you specify (about 2.4+ mm?).

    I am wondering if you are going to bind the fretboard? Also, is .096" thick enough to hold the tang of the fret with enough backing? Seems like it would be a bit problematic, no?

    Thanks!
    I've been doing e'm that thickness for over 10 ten years, Martin Concert ukes are a little thicker at .010" you have to cut the slot depth just right ...Some of the early Martin uke frets are slotted and fitted on the neck due to the longer fret tangs and bar frets used in those days...Ludwig banjo uke ebony fretboards are only.060" thick but those are slotted on the neck also...I think thick fretboards at 5mm+ look more like guitar ones, but thats just me as a side note..The original early ukes had no fretboards at all and frets went straight into the neck.
    Last edited by Timbuck; 08-17-2019 at 12:52 AM.
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  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbuck View Post
    I've been doing e'm that thickness for over 10 ten years, Martin Concert ukes are a little thicker at .010" you have to cut the slot depth just right ...Some of the early Martin uke frets are slotted and fitted on the neck due to the longer fret tangs and bar frets used in those days...Ludwig banjo uke ebony fretboards are only.060" thick but those are slotted on the neck also...I think thick fretboards at 5mm+ look more like guitar ones, but thats just me as a side note..The original early ukes had no fretboards at all and frets went straight into the neck.
    Hmm... I'll have to up my game to keep from cutting the slots too deep. I am hand cutting them. How do you do it?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by eclipsme View Post
    Hmm... I'll have to up my game to keep from cutting the slots too deep. I am hand cutting them. How do you do it?
    On a Proxxon table saw..with a .025" blade ...and an indexing jig I made.
    https://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.p...E#.XVgf8_nTWhA
    Before I got the Proxxon saw, I used to do it on a shop built table saw that I made from an old scrapped band saw table and an ancient corded power drill.
    Video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzsigK0nIzs
    Last edited by Timbuck; 08-17-2019 at 05:59 AM.
    http://ukulele-innovation.tripod.com ebay i/d squarepeg_3000 Email timmsken@hotmail.com

    If you can believe that moving images and sound, can fly through empty space across the universe and be seen and heard on a box in your living room ?.. then you can believe in anything.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Timbuck View Post
    On a Proxxon table saw..with a .025" blade ...and an indexing jig I made.
    https://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.p...E#.XVgf8_nTWhA
    Before I got the Proxxon saw, I used to do it on a shop built table saw that I made from an old scrapped band saw table and an ancient corded power drill.
    Video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzsigK0nIzs
    Yea, I can see that the the proxxon would help... a lot.

    I will probably need to move to something like your template tool on a table saw as in the youtube video. I hope you don't mind a few questions about it.

    In the beginning you tape both ends of the fretboard to the jig but near one end. Then you suddenly slide the fretboard to the opposite end. Huh?

    High did you accurately cut the alignment holes in the jig? Just accurate measurement and a drill press?

    Also, are you cutting the board with square sides or have you already put in the taper? If the latter, I guess you would need a different jig not only for each scale length but for every nut width/saddle length as well.

    What blade are you using?

    Thanks for sharing!

  6. #16
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    Once the fretboard is taped Into the jig it does not move but I place a piece of wood on top to hold the fretboard flat to the table...that's what you saw slide along.
    I have a special 18 inch vernier gauge that I use to mark out the template, this gauge has needle points instead of the usual caul's that standard vernier gauges have. I then use a toolroom microscope to pin prick punch the holes followed by a larger centre punch..then carefully drill on the drill press...I did work in a tool room in my earlier life. And yes this jig does cater for tapered fretboards, also it can hold the full neck for cutting the slots after the fretboard is glued on...but I think it will be easier for you slotting none tapered boards to start with.
    Last edited by Timbuck; 08-18-2019 at 03:04 AM.
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    If you can believe that moving images and sound, can fly through empty space across the universe and be seen and heard on a box in your living room ?.. then you can believe in anything.

  7. #17

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    Thank you for that. It helps. I never knew what a prick punch was, but perfectly obvious now.

    An 18" vernier would be an excellent tool for this, though not in the budget. I am jealous! And one with needle points? Oh my!

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by eclipsme View Post
    Thank you for that. It helps. I never knew what a prick punch was, but perfectly obvious now.

    An 18" vernier would be an excellent tool for this, though not in the budget. I am jealous! And one with needle points? Oh my!
    Yes it's an unusual gauge and I have not been able to locate another like it.
    IMG_4342 by Ken Timms, on Flickr
    http://ukulele-innovation.tripod.com ebay i/d squarepeg_3000 Email timmsken@hotmail.com

    If you can believe that moving images and sound, can fly through empty space across the universe and be seen and heard on a box in your living room ?.. then you can believe in anything.

  9. #19

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    [QUOTE=Timbuck;2173246]Yes it's an unusual gauge and I have not been able to locate another like it.

    A machinist's delight, I am sure!

    BTW - where did you get your fret saw blade from? Thanks.

  10. #20
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    [QUOTE=eclipsme;2173385]
    Quote Originally Posted by Timbuck View Post
    Yes it's an unusual gauge and I have not been able to locate another like it.

    A machinist's delight, I am sure!

    BTW - where did you get your fret saw blade from? Thanks.
    I think this thread has drifted away from the original topic quite a bit..But! in answer to your question.

    I bought some 4" dia X .025" thick blades (not easy to find) at a bargain price a few years ago on eBay but I had to adapt them to fit the Proxxon ...Stewmack do a 6" X .022" blade to fit the standard table saw, but they are quite expensive
    Last edited by Timbuck; 08-19-2019 at 04:02 AM.
    http://ukulele-innovation.tripod.com ebay i/d squarepeg_3000 Email timmsken@hotmail.com

    If you can believe that moving images and sound, can fly through empty space across the universe and be seen and heard on a box in your living room ?.. then you can believe in anything.

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