Through-the-Top Strings

I made an interesting discovery about uke strings that go right through the top of the bridge and the uke. When you remove them, you probably won't be able to reuse them.

I removed the high-g from my XS Soprano to try a low-G. I didn't care for the sound of the Freemont, so I took it off. Unless you have tiny hands or a large sound hole, you will have to cut the knot off the end of the string and thread it through the top of the uke. In my case, that didn't leave string to wind onto the tuning peg. I could wind it maybe twice before it slipped off.

So, if you're putting new strings on a through-the-top uke, be sure to allow enough excess.

EDIT: Of course, if you are able to untie the knot under the bridge, you could probably re-use the string.

No need to stick your fingers into the sound hole or change all the strings at once on a string-through-bridge design. I aways change my strings one at a time and simply use a pair of chopsticks to grab the little bugger when it appears near the sound hole. It's the pin bridge that drives me nuts. If given a choice, I prefer the look and use of a simple tie block. I'm guessing the string-through-bridge design is the cheapest and easiest design to make.

I don't understand the difficulty of "fishing out the strings". I hold the instrument tail-side up, push the string through from the top side, and grab it when it appears at the soundhole. And I do leave a lot of string to wind on the peg end, just in case I might want to re-use the string on an instrument with a different bridge (that hasn't happened yet). I like the simplicity, and find string changes easier than with tie bridges.

That said, the luthier who's building my instrument currently under construction talked me out of using a through-the-top stringing bridge, which is what I first thought I wanted. He started out making classical guitars, and really dislikes the use of bridge plates on any nylon-strung instruments, for acoustic reasons. Says that the bridge itself, together with the fan bracing, is plenty of structural support for the top, and that any more would be redundant and likely stifle the sound. He's actually going to use a classical bridge type with 10 holes for my 5-string instrument (of course, the classical guitar counterpart would have 12 holes). It will require no knotting and less overall bending of the strings, which in this case is a big plus, because the bass strings will be quite thick compared to ones on regular ukes. (This is a large hybrid instrument he's making me. Can't wait!)

bratsche

bratsche said:

He's actually going to use a classical bridge type with 10 holes for my 5-string instrument (of course, the classical guitar counterpart would have 12 holes). It will require no knotting and less overall bending of the strings,

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Ima need a picture of that

Here:



bratsche

Jim Hanks said:

Ima need a picture of that

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Here's a video Jim: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goXdfM7ySOY

I have a 12 hole bridge on my 4 string Steve van Pelt tenor.

Jerryc41 said:

I made an interesting discovery about uke strings that go right through the top of the bridge and the uke. When you remove them, you probably won't be able to reuse them.

I removed the high-g from my XS Soprano to try a low-G. I didn't care for the sound of the Freemont, so I took it off. Unless you have tiny hands or a large sound hole, you will have to cut the knot off the end of the string and thread it through the top of the uke. In my case, that didn't leave string to wind onto the tuning peg. I could wind it maybe twice before it slipped off.

So, if you're putting new strings on a through-the-top uke, be sure to allow enough excess.

EDIT: Of course, if you are able to untie the knot under the bridge, you could probably re-use the string.

Click to expand...

Try a crochet hook or a bracelet clasp helper. There are also long 10 inch tweezers in pet supply stores.

https://www.amazon.com/EONMIR-Stain...Feeding+Tongs&qid=1567634979&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I like all the styles but string thru is very clean looking. I find no problems fishing the string. I even can change string and use low or high g, I use a tie block. Some use beads and that is a lot of tying knots. The blocks you can buy are simple. I’ll look up type but when I put a set on a Uke with string thru and two days later hate the strings (it happens) then it’s a simple change out.

Also also, always change on string at a time when I’m doing a complete string change. Just keeps the ink to tension. The only time they all come off for a string change is when I’m doing fretboard treatment, usually, once a year.

YMMV

Looked up the two types I use. Diamond string beads, not really a bead but type in thT search and you will see. They work good on both tie bridge and string thru.

String tie bead sold by String by Mail, also work very good . And again they Re not round beads but little blocks you pull string thru, and around and they lock it. They both worth like a champ.

That said , I also have a custome tenor with a knot h bridge and it works great. I’ve stayed away from Pin bridge because I played guitar for so many years but I’m sure they are great on Uke. When I finally get a Kanilea, I will know for sure.

Lots of great options out there for the ukulele p,ayer

bratsche said:

Here:

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Brilliant! Why isnt that more common I wonder?

gochugogi said:

No need to stick your fingers into the sound hole or change all the strings at once on a string-through-bridge design. I aways change my strings one at a time and simply use a pair of chopsticks to grab the little bugger when it appears near the sound hole. It's the pin bridge that drives me nuts. If given a choice, I prefer the look and use of a simple tie block. I'm guessing the string-through-bridge design is the cheapest and easiest design to make.

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It's on expensive ukes. I have yet to see one on a cheap one and I doubt cheap and easy to make were considerations on the RC ukes.

stevejfc said:

Here's a video Jim: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goXdfM7ySOY

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Would have been nice if he had shown a closeup of what he was talking about.

AQUATOPAZ said:

It's on expensive ukes. I have yet to see one on a cheap one and I doubt cheap and easy to make were considerations on the RC ukes.

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I've seen string-through-bridges on many inexpensive ukuleles, including ply no-name Chinese imports and the RC ST Concert Ukulele Pack models selling for $269. I'm sure they're carefully designed to maximize bang for buck in terms of materials and labor cost.

M3Ukulele said:

I find no problems fishing the string.

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...especially if you use fishing line.

gochugogi said:

I've seen string-through-bridges on many inexpensive ukuleles, including ply no-name Chinese imports and the RC ST Concert Ukulele Pack models selling for $269. I'm sure they're carefully designed to maximize bang for buck in terms of materials and labor cost.

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That is a laminate remake of a solid STC selling for over double that. Should RC have changed the design for their cheaper laminate. And that price for a laminate is not cheap. The RC line is created by a luthier from a long line of classical guitar players who started also making ukuleles. That bridge style was used in his custom builds that costed thousands before he started producing ukuleles in Vietnam for those who aren't buying the pricier customs. Do you honestly believe that he was trying out an easier and cheaper option on his custom builds so that he could save a buck. They are used because they put less stress on the top and also give a cleaner look.

Yeah yeah, Pepe is a great guy and I love his instruments. Just not a big fan of that bridge design. I even did an extensive review of his TT6 (which Pepe shared on social media):

https://fraryguitar.com/romero_creations_TT6_review.htm

I've played several of his custom classicals and none of them had string-through-bridge designs, unlike his Romero Creations Parlor guitar and Baritone 6. But, alas, I grin and bare it since I like his designs, especially the Baritone 6.