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Thread: Hand plane recommondation for thicknessing

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Mangawhai NZ
    Posts
    406

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    I recently made a router sled from various pieces of scrap I had been saving up for a special occasion. It works well down to 1.5mm - and probably below that but I haven't tried.
    I use a 1" bottom routing bit (or some similar name) which has a TCT blade all the way across the bottom of the bit, not just at the edges. It provides a much smoother cut than an ordinary bit.
    To keep the wood perfectly flat I lay it on a sheet of plate glass about 5mm thick and use a hot glue gun to secure the edges of the wood to the glass. I don't get glue between the glass and the wood.
    I then use the router sled to reduce the piece to close to the required thickness. Then, with the wood still attached to the glass, I feed it through the home-made thicknessing sander ( a rotating drum).
    To remove the wood from the glass I just cut the edges where the glue it with a Stanley knife and it separates without problems.
    I can then true the other side if required by repeating the process.

    The prospect of something going wrong with high speed rotating tools and a sheet of glass is something I am very aware of. However, the plate glass has the weight to keep the wood absolutely flat, won't buckle or curl with humidity and has worked very well thus far. I check everything 3 times, wear safety goggles and don't stand too close to the action. So far so good.

    I hope this is idea is useful to others but please be careful
    Miguel

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Honolulu/Hawaii
    Posts
    801

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    just went to friends place with the dewalt planer. was able to thin down to 1.8 sides and 2.2 tops and back without any tearouts. then 120 grit orbital sanded for smooth surface.

    next will try build a router sled jig and see how that goes. but so far planners do work great on highly curly mango wood, ebony , and rosewood from what I did today.

    then when I get some birthday money get a nice low angle or no 4 plane.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Grand Junction, Colorado
    Posts
    2,722

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    Thicknessing with a planer is very dangerous territory. It will work until it doesn't.....then you will have at best snipe, and at worst a catastrophic explosion of wood.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Virginia USA
    Posts
    383

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    Find a friend with a helical cutterhead planer to reduce tearout portential.

    I built a simple thicknessing drum sander when I first started building. It was quick and cheap with just a few parts. Check out online videos of homemade drum sanders. It'll also make you feel legit.

    Rodney Paul Adams

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Honolulu/Hawaii
    Posts
    801

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    yeah I knew the blades where new , but im sure I wont get lucky when the blades get wornout.
    was good experience I was after. good thing I did passes with scrap woods off the same boards. going from 4.5mm to 2.2 was pretty quick. then orbital sanded for a super smooth top.

    Quote Originally Posted by Beau Hannam Ukuleles View Post
    Thicknessing with a planer is very dangerous territory. It will work until it doesn't.....then you will have at best snipe, and at worst a catastrophic explosion of wood.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Honolulu/Hawaii
    Posts
    801

    Default

    dang, yeah that's on my to do list. diy drum sander. but in the end im going to end up with low angle plane method or no 4 smooth plane as I only make 1 or 2 a year for fun when i got time. all good experience im learning. wood working is so much fun.

    Quote Originally Posted by RPA_Ukuleles View Post
    Find a friend with a helical cutterhead planer to reduce tearout portential.

    I built a simple thicknessing drum sander when I first started building. It was quick and cheap with just a few parts. Check out online videos of homemade drum sanders. It'll also make you feel legit.


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