Neck angle?

I have pre-ordered Graham's new book over here in the US, but I have a question about neck angle on a current project. It's a steel string baritone uke inspired by one of Jay Lichty's products. The back is arched 15 feet, and the top will be arched 25 feet, with the area in front of the sound hole flat.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around how neck angle, bridge height, and saddle height are inter-related. I'm not planning a truss rod for this project, just CF rods for reinforcement. I'm trying to get as low an action as I can without causing buzzing. I purchased the Advanced Ukulele building course with Jay and Robert O'Brien, but Jay's project in that series is a long neck tenor with a flat top. I have plenty of books and videos at my disposal, but I'm having trouble applying the guitar building principles I've been studying to the much smaller baritone.

Any suggestions from the more experienced builders in the crowd? I'm going slow on this project because I don't want to mess it up, but I'm getting very close to where I need to start making some decisions on the neck.

Here's a simple diagram of how neck angle, fretboard thickness, saddle height, and string height above the soundboard all relate to each other. (while maintainging .090" action above the 12th fret)

I go for no angle ...but if it's an arch top I suppose an angle is needed.

Once your body is built, use an angle gauge on the joint area and top. The actual number doesn't matter. Cut your heel at that angle using the same gauge, then proceed as normal for a flattop. Are you doing a bolt-on neck? Regardless, fit the neck to the body with no fretboard. Make a faux fretboard with one fret fore and aft (and keep it forever). Clamp it to the neck. Place a straight edge across the two frets and extending over the body. The distance from the bottom of the straight edge to the bridge position on the top will hopefully be the thickness you desire for the bridge without the saddle. If not, floss the heel until you get the angle you want. Jay Lichty flosses to get a perfect joint. If you pull the sandpaper all the way through it will begin to change the angle.

The easiest way to visualise it is:
If you put a straight edge on top of the fretboard (when its glued to the neck), the straight edge should touch the top of the bridge, or just under it.

Thanks for the replies. I've been re-watching Jay's videos on neck fitting this evening. I am going to have a bolt-on neck - my first.

Good choice. I think Jay's use of a mortise and tenon as well as two bolts is overkill. But it is certainly a safe way to go.