Disaster

Disaster!

The split starts about half an inch from the heel block, and runs almost the full length of the side to within half an inch of the tail block. At first, the edges of the split were not well aligned with each other. There was no significant gap, but the upper and lower sections were offset, leaving a small but unacceptable step.

Lining it up by finger pressure in one place just seemed to make it worse in another. The point of impact was low down, between the line of the bridge and the tail. There is a clear mark and the wood is very slightly depressed.

The inside of the split between the neck and the waist is accessible through the sound hole. That section could be persuaded to line up well, so I glued and lightly clamped this half, fitting three cleats. Super Glue for the crack, hot hide for the cleats.

Fortunately, this stabilized everything, and caused the rest of the split to come into good alignment. All of the split is now closed with Super Glue, and I just have to fit three cleats inside the lower section. Did I say "just"? Well it's tricky, but doable.

The side will need to be cleaned up and re-finished. If I manage to make a good job of the shellac finish, it could be an invisible mend.

John ColterOuch!.jpgGlued and cleated from neck to waist.jpg
 
Impressive life saving operation!

Will the patient be set free to roam in the wild?
 
Thanks, kkimura. In the post op. period, it will be most beneficial for the patient to undertake a period of physiotherapy. Taken gently, at first, but building up to a strenuous daily work-out. I can provide the necessary facilities. I will issue a further bulletin, and a video, when the patient is back to full health.

The previous Ken Timms style 0 that I resuscitated (which is roaming wild) will be going to Japan for the Xmas period, then to Australia.

John Colter
 
Disaster!

The repair went well. It now has now six internal cleats and is really solid. Applying a shellac finish is something new for me, but I haven't messed it up - yet! It's been suggested that I leave it for a week, for the shellac to harden thoroughly, before blending in with 1200 grade wet & dry.

So, it will be a wee while before the job is finished. Here's a close-up of how it looked with two coats of shellac.
14 - two coats.jpg

John Colter
 
Disaster!

Just in case anybody might be interested, and wondering what happened with this project - I was advised to let the new coats of shellac harden for at least a week, before trying to blend it in with the existing French Polished finish. So I decided to leave it until after the holidays.

It has now been rubbed down with 1200 "wet & dry" (wet), and that went well, except that the new finish became a bit thin in places. Three more thin coats were wiped on, yesterday. After a further seven days drying time, I hope it may be possible to blend it in to give an acceptable overall appearance.

Repairing the split side took much less time than the re-finishing!

John Colter
 
What a fantastic result to date, I feel sure that the final finish will also be excellent, congratulations and well done. I look forward to hearing what this Ukes future will be, keep and play yourself or maybe a second (salvaged) Timms traveling the World and linking on-line friends?
 
Last edited:
Hi Ukeanixi, I used Bostic Super Glue, marked "Multi-Purpose Liquid". It is just a regular household brand. The important thing is that it is a thin liquid type. This helps it to penetrate the crack very quickly. Some other types of CA are much thicker and don't work so well on closed cracks.

You have to use it sparingly, and very carefully, or it will go everywhere and make a mess.

John Colter

ps. I was not familiar with the term "Inland Empire". Just spent a few minutes googling. It looks like a delightful place to live.
 
Last edited:
ukantor said:
Hi Ukeanixi, I used Bostic Super Glue, marked "Multi-Purpose Liquid". It is just a regular household brand. The important thing is that it is a thin liquid type. This helps it to penetrate the crack very quickly. Some other types of CA are much thicker and don't work so well on closed cracks.

You have to use it sparingly, and very carefully, or it will go everywhere and make a mess.

John Colter

ps. I was not familiar with the term "Inland Empire". Just spent a few minutes googling. It looks like a delightful place to live.
Click to expand...

We here in the colonies don't have that brand. One that I just heard about is FastCap 2P-10. It's a system, for wood, including a rubberized version that's for more "dynamic" repairs. Comes in various viscosities thin to gel. I'm itching to try it.

Spokane is the default capital of the Inland Empire; high desert, very low humidity in summer, high in winter (snow and rain). A real challenge for ukes!
 
I wasn't sure what they meant by a dynamic repair - "Dynamic, meaning - of a process or system - characterized by constant change, activity, or progress."

For dealing with a closed split, the regular type of liquid CA glue is ideal. Don't go cracking one of your ukes just to try this new stuff! But with a climate like that, you may not have to wait too long.

John Colter
 
What I think is meant by the dynamic is where the joint is subject to flexing.
Jerry Rosa uses it on cracks in guitars. Saw it on one of his youtube repair videos under RSW (Rosa String Works?).
 
Hmmm..........when I mend a crack I don't want to encourage it, or enable it, to flex. I'm looking for a strong, tight, durable bond. If flexibility of the repaired piece is thought to be an important factor, would you avoid the use of cleats and rely on the CA alone to make the repair?

John C.
 
If the glue is brittle, or can only work in tension (classic CA problem), any flexing will cause it to shear. If you have the cleats, they will only work locally, but not where the cleat isn't holding. If you go belt and suspenders, ie the rubberized CA *AND* the cleats, you get some overlap. That's my thinking. Some day I'll test my theory! ;)
 
Yup, that sounds very feasible. Regular CA has worked well for me so far, but I'll certainly give the rubberized type consideration for future repairs.

Thanks for the insight,

John Colter
 
I find this whole idea of a "dynamic" (why don't they just say "flexible"? Marketing my friend, marketing), CA glue fascinating. However I can't really think of where I would want a glued joint on an ukulele to be flexible except perhaps on a crack. A crack caused by contraction due to humidity issues. Seems that would be a great solution to expansion/contraction issues. However, as we remember, this crack was not due to an expansion/contraction issue but due to a violent event perpetrated by its builder. I will not mention names here, but this uke was severely traumatized. Sure, it was said that it "flew off the bench". Likely story.
 
This uke has now been in my care for a number of weeks. I have observed no tendency for it to leap about or suddenly fly off. It seems to observe the laws of physics much as any other musical instrument does. In fact, it seems to be particularly placid and patient, as it hangs about waiting for the refinishing process to work towards to a conclusion.

I think it best to draw a discreet veil over the mysterious incident that brought it my way.

John Colter
 
ukantor said:
Hi Ukeanixi, I used Bostic Super Glue, marked "Multi-Purpose Liquid". It is just a regular household brand. The important thing is that it is a thin liquid type. This helps it to penetrate the crack very quickly. Some other types of CA are much thicker and don't work so well on closed cracks.

You have to use it sparingly, and very carefully, or it will go everywhere and make a mess.

John Colter
Click to expand...

I suspect that I don’t understand something about the repair quite well enough in that a very quick acting (literally in seconds) type of glue has been used. The advantages of self wicking are clear enough though.

Everyone has their own favourites that have given good results for them. For what woodworking I do myself I’ve been very pleased with standard Evostick products, my recollection is of a clear setting white runny liquid which could be worked into a crack (so not strictly self wicking but a determined person would readily find a way with non fine cracks). Full strength in a day but setting time is, IIRC, under half an hour (so, if needed, there’s time to correct some errors and excess glue is easily wiped away).

The glues mentioned by Ukeanixi are two part adhesives so unless I misunderstand (again) how the second part enters the crack is a mystery to me. “2P-10 is a two-part ten-second adhesive. Just apply the adhesive, then spray the activator and stick it together for a strong, permanent bond.” The rubberised product is for items subject to shock loading, so not really Ukes IMHO - well that’s the impression that I get from the manufacturer’s website and video.
 
Last edited:
Graham Greenbag said:
The glues mentioned by Ukeanixi are two part adhesives so unless I misunderstand (again) how the second part enters the crack is a mystery to me. “2P-10 is a two-part ten-second adhesive. Just apply the adhesive, then spray the activator and stick it together for a strong, permanent bond.”
Click to expand...

The second part is an "accelerator" which is water-like thin and is not an adhesive. It flows into the crack and around the CA glue causing it to instantly harden. I always use an accelerator when I use standard CA glue. The chemical reaction by the way gives off cyanide gas. Fun with glues?
 
sequoia said:
The second part is an "accelerator" which is water-like thin and is not an adhesive. It flows into the crack and around the CA glue causing it to instantly harden. I always use an accelerator when I use standard CA glue. The chemical reaction by the way gives off cyanide gas. Fun with glues?
Click to expand...

Graham has a good point: the manufacturer of the stuff claims it to be 2-part

If it were actually 2-part there would be a mixing of the parts before application. I surely believe that the spray stuff is an acceleration chemical of some sort, as Sequoia suggests.

It may not be very important to the discussion after all. The rubberized stuff is a gel! You won't be able to easily get it to wick into a crack anyway. I suppose that you could use a bit of solvent to thin it out. I've got this solvent called "Super Solvent" by Golden West, available on amazon or ebay, which claims to clean off CA glue. If I ever get the rubberized version I'll experiment with thinning it out for cracks.
 
Last edited:
Disaster!

The subject of this thread is now back in good health. The strings were fitted yesterday (Aquila Super Nylgut) and are settling nicely. It sounds just as a Ken Timms style 0 should sound.

The repair is virtually invisible. I reckon anyone who didn't know about the damaged side would not see anything amiss. The refinishing with shellac worked out satisfactorily, but Janet Timms would probably not be very impressed by my efforts!

I am enjoying playing this little survivor. It has a particularly appealing voice and is working its way into my affections. They do that, don't they?

John Colter
19 - Ken Timms, split side, repaired & finished.jpg18 - Ken Timms, split side, repaired and finished.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

wee_ginga_yin
New York mining disaster 1941
Replies
0
Views
166
wee_ginga_yin
wee_ginga_yin
Timbuck
Makore Disaster
Replies
11
Views
1K
ukuleleCraig
ukuleleCraig
J
UKULELE DISASTER.....yikes
Replies
3
Views
342
ksiegel
ksiegel
B
Tear out in a top. Disaster or Opportunity?
Replies
15
Views
1K
Inksplosive AL
Inksplosive AL
B
Finish Disaster
Replies
9
Views
1K
Rick Turner
Rick Turner
Top Bottom