What is the purpose for super accurate tuners?

Tuning a stringed instrument is always a compromise. You just have to pick your poison.

I’ll use a tuner to check open strings, and then check the 5th and 12th frets. This has worked well enough even though the 7th and 9th might not be perfect.

Truth is, I can’t fret perfectly straight with the exact amount of pressure so it is somewhat moot. But, at least for me, if I get it as close as I can, anything that is off is probably due more to my playing ability.

I also use the tuner to verify that the intonation setup I did is still is right. When I setup a uke, I sometimes leave a little bit of leeway for future tweaking. I keep checking it when I tune it. Occasionally there will be a string(s) that is consistently a bit off, whether due to using different strings (usually) or ???. If it persists, I’ll compensate the saddle a tad or touch up the nut string height to bring it closer.

John
 
Using a super-accurate Peterson strobosoft app with Grover Sta-tites is a frustrating experience. Now that the Aquila Red Sugar strings (low G) on my loPrinzi Concert have stabilized, I tune one string to the tuner and the other 3 by ear in relation.
 
It is not really possible to make any compensations in tuning to our ukulele imperfections with TC Electronic Unitune in strobe mode.

Standard mode works great though in that.
 
Google Knows All about James Taylor’s method of “Sweetened Tuning,” though I’m not certain of its utility if you aren’t James Taylor playing James Taylor’s guitars . . . .
 
cdkrugjr said:
Google Knows All about James Taylor’s method of “Sweetened Tuning,” though I’m not certain of its utility if you aren’t James Taylor playing James Taylor’s guitars . . . .
Click to expand...

Yes because it is just crap knowledge. We don't have his voice lol.
Guitar is not low, that the bass strings need be tuned somewhat lower, like his preference.

It is somewhat different with piano low strings and the upper harmonics matching.
 
I agree with, cdkrugjr, if one can fret and pick and strum perfectly then he/she needs perfect tuning. Otherwise, just tune yer uke up and whack away at it — have fun wid yer bad self . . . :eek:ld:
 
Kurt, I think your experience with tuning forks won the thread!


ksiegel said:
I use the D'Addario/Planet Waves tuners - too many broken Snarks to justify keeping them.

I like to get the quick, digital tuning, then tweak it by ear. When I'm solo, I don't really worry about anything but relative tuning, but when i play with others, we need to all get as close as possible. Some folks I play with only play in the first position, while I've been playing in 2nd and third, depending on the instrument. Some of my instruments are great up to 7th fret, then the intonation starts to degrade. Others are perfect to 14 or 15th frets, but lack great harmonics at 5 & 7. The new Cocobolo is the only one of my stringed instruments (guitars and banjo included in this) that is at pitch between the 3rd string 4th fret and the 2nd string. My ears have always told me that, but the D'Addarios confirm it. The harmonics are also great at 5,7, and 12th frets

However, after all that, I must confess that my preference is an A=440 tuning fork, and tune everything else relative to that string. (unfortunately, I have 3 forks labeled A=440, and they range from 432 to 438. I haven't found a true A=440 fork for years.)

-Kurt​
Click to expand...
 
YUNI said:
What do you mean tune a uke to itself? Like tune one string and then use it as reference to tune the others?
Click to expand...

I’m not sure anyone explained how this works. One way is to tune the A string open. Then play the G, second fret, and tune it with the A (it’s the same note). Tune the E string open. Then play the C, fourth fret, and tune it with the E.

I’m sure there’s a way to tune all four from one string, but this works for me.
 
My over 40 years old tuning fork just got tested with Datuner app. It says it is 440.1 Hz. I go blame the app, but honestly over the years, perhaps some wear :(

------
According to this:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tuning_fork:

"Tuning fork pitch varies slightly with temperature, due mainly to a slight decrease in the modulus of elasticity of steel with increasing temperature. A change in frequency of 48 parts per million per °F (86 ppm per °C) is typical for a steel tuning fork. The frequency decreases (becomes flat) with increasing temperature.[6] Tuning forks are manufactured to have their correct pitch at a standard temperature. The standard temperature is now 20 °C (68 °F), but 15 °C (59 °F) is an older standard. The pitch of other instruments is also subject to variation with temperature change."

So if my fork is 0.1 Hz sharp, it sucks. But not a catastrophe. I always knew it was fine, but now it got tested.

Anyways quality tuning forks are really precise. Only these days recommended for aficianados like us.
 
Last edited:
I have a very accurate tuner that plugs into the pickup on an instrument. I use it to tune autoharps that have 36-37 strings. On a uke or guitar I use a Snark.
 
Temperature, pressure, humidity and ABV affect the pitch and sound of my ukulele. It's a minefield! I don't know how we manage.

John Colter
 
I like snark because it works well on all my stringed instruments. It's almost too precise for my Kamaka with friction tuners and I don't even try to get in on spot as long as it sounds good enough.
 
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