Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst ... 23456 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 53

Thread: StewMac Concert Uke Kit Bracing Issue

  1. #31

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sequoia View Post
    I would not tie the fans to the lower transverse brace.
    Mine are just touching. How much distance do you usually like?

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Australia.
    Posts
    240

    Default

    That looks like it should be fuller and more mellow sounding than the 'X' bracing, which some report as being fairly bright, but until it is strung up and played, this will remain pure conjecture.
    If you want to isolate the bracing more, you could consider paring down the fans to about 0.5mm high in a gentle curve, starting 10 – 12mm out from the transverse brace. This will (theoretically) unlock the fan brace ends and move the pivot point (for the lever effect) away from the transverse brace.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Little River, California
    Posts
    2,615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by klr View Post
    Mine are just touching. How much distance do you usually like?
    Not particularly critical I think. My distance is about 3/4 inch or so. Keep in mind that this is the way I do it. None of this is written in stone. Below is a picture of a basic tenor fan bracing scheme. Note that this is a tenor and not a concert which might require a lighter touch. Also note that the braces have not been carved down yet. A lot of wood will come off there. Hope that helps.

    bracing.jpg

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sequoia View Post
    Not particularly critical I think. My distance is about 3/4 inch or so. Keep in mind that this is the way I do it. None of this is written in stone. Below is a picture of a basic tenor fan bracing scheme. Note that this is a tenor and not a concert which might require a lighter touch. Also note that the braces have not been carved down yet. A lot of wood will come off there. Hope that helps.

    bracing.jpg
    Thank you for the pic, that helps. I too feel that not joining the fan braces leaves room for the top (lower bout) to move and be more lively.

  5. #35

    Default

    Ok, I can see how stopping the braces short would allow the entire lower bout to move more like a speaker cone. Here's the tenor top I finished today. How's it look?

    20191222_192222-1 (1).jpg

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Little River, California
    Posts
    2,615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by klr View Post
    Looks great.

  7. #37

    Default

    Thanks. I appreciate everyone's input.

  8. #38

    Default

    Remember those holes in the neck that were drilled off-center? Well, they were drilled off-square too. That means that I had to drill the holes in the neck block at an angle. Long story short - I had to wallow out the holes and now I don't have a tight fit on my dowels. I think I'll be fine if I just glue the neck on with epoxy. Anyone want to talk me out of it?

    Guess I could go with 5/16" dowels IF I can hit the angle right. There just isn't much material in the neck or neck block.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Australia.
    Posts
    240

    Default

    Unfortunately, when it comes to dowelling, good alignment is required.
    For the moment do nothing until you can properly assess your options.
    If you can get the joint to close neatly using dowels and epoxy that will be your easiest option. Be sure to get the neck to bridge/body alignment correct before applying epoxy. Clean up any excess epoxy really well for ease of finishing.
    If you can get a screw in through the sound hole, you could improvise with a furniture bolt.
    This will require filling the misaligned holes with dowels and epoxy, cutting them off flush and starting anew. A drill press is necessary to accurately drill down through the neck heel to accommodate the barrel. Again some accuracy with measurement and alignment will be needed.
    I mostly have experience with these two methods for ukulele, others may have better (or easier) ideas.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Little River, California
    Posts
    2,615

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by klr View Post
    Long story short - I had to wallow out the holes and now I don't have a tight fit on my dowels. I think I'll be fine if I just glue the neck on with epoxy.
    Getting an exact angle is hard and not really necessary unless it is really far off. Just wallow a bit out to get a fit. Then fill the excess space with glue/sawdust mixture. Remember this is also a butt joint and the glued fretboard to top will further stabilize the join. It isn't going anyway. It will be fine.

    That is the quick and dirty way. A cleaner way would be to drill out bigger using your 5/16th dowels and re-drill. That works too of course.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •