Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 28

Thread: Fluorocarbon strings for a Kala super tenor

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Pickering, ON, Canada
    Posts
    6,133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ripock View Post
    I play super tenors exclusively and I use concert strings because they have less tension, which should be what your fingers want. If my memory is correct, I currently have high-G worth browns on one ukulele and low-G Fremont blacks on the other.
    As I posted in your other thread this is the answer for less tension......concert strings. Going to baritone strings will be going up in thickness (more tension) and hurt your fingers even more. As I said last post I have a 19” super tension and have Living Water concert strings on it, they are easily long enough to fit. As another said you can replace the high G string from the set with a Fremont soloist, that is exactly what I have done.
    Currently enjoying these ukuleles : *LdfM tenor, *LfdM 19" super tenor. *LfdM baritone, *I'iwi tenor , *Koolau tenor, *Webber tenor, *Kimo tenor, *Kimo super concert, *Mya Moe baritone, *Kamaka baritone, *Gianinni baritone, *Fred Shields walnut pineapple super soprano, *Kala super soprano, *Loprinzi super soprano, *Black bear ULO concert , *Enya X1 concert, *Enya X1 pineapple soprano, *Enya Nova *Gretsch tenor, *Korala plastic concert

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Posts
    1,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ukeanixi View Post
    You're right. It's subjective. Let's say D'Addario clear nylon, fat and hard and stiff, are on the far end of the spectrum. Oasis softer fluorocarbon strings on the other end.
    Who makes something compatible wifh Super Tenor which has a balance of good sound and softer interface with the finger?
    I think I understand, but I think it will be hard to draw comparisons for you because I do a lot of monkeying around with my strings.

    First of all, I use concert ukulele strings on my super tenor.
    Secondly, I downtune until I get the feel I want. Usually that means a tuning of E A C# F# or D# G# C F.

    I am influenced by primitivism and roots music, so I'm shooting for a murkier tone than usual.

    With that being said, I will offer some opinions.

    The Fremont Blacklines are a vast improvement over the black D'Addario strings that came with my Kamaka. I hated those thick stiff strings. They didn't lend themselves to bending or sliding, which are two ornamentations that I employ.

    The Fremont strings were a step in the right direction because did everything the D'Addario strings did, but they did them in a slightly less intense way. They still chimed, but not as much. They were tight, but not too tight. They were smaller and easier on the finger tips. They sound, in fact, like what you're looking for. For me, they were still a bit tight, so I loosened them three half-steps and now all the strings bend and slide just as I like them. And even though they are looser than normal, they are still resonant. I find myself often muting the strings into sharper stabs because they are lingering a bit too long for what I want.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    JoCo, NC (near Raleigh)
    Posts
    5,227

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ukeanixi View Post
    Is this the one you recommend?

    Baritone Custom Set GCEA Low G with additional A string (5 strings total)
    Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by ukeanixi View Post
    Jim [See below] from the great state of North Carolina seems to think it's a good thing.
    If you look at my signature, you'll see that I have a lot of different tunings, which I think is a good thing. Generally I want my 19" ukes at lower tunings as I can get GCEA at tenor or concert scale, but if you want GCEA baritone, the LW set is a good option.

    Quote Originally Posted by ripock View Post
    First of all, I use concert ukulele strings on my super tenor.
    Secondly, I downtune until I get the feel I want. Usually that means a tuning of E A C# F# or D# G# C F.
    And that's a great point. If you're willing to do that, you can use a larger variety of string sets. I haven't tried concert strings, but I have used the LW tenor set on 19" and it worked great for EAC#F#. Actually, I have some Pepe Romero strings for GCEA concert that are recommended for DGBE baritone, but I haven't tried it yet.
    Ukulele:
    Iriguchi Tenor "Weeble" - A, WoU Clarity
    Blue Star 19" baritone Konablaster - DGBE
    Cocobolo 16" SC#1-gCEA, SC SLMU
    Ono #42 19" baritone, Ab, LW
    Imua iET-Bb, M600
    Covered Bridge CLN pineapple - Eb cuatro, SC XLL
    Rogue bari
    Bonanza super tenor, cFAD SC LHU
    Kala KSLNG, Eb SC XLU
    Hanson 5-string tenor, dGCEA
    Bonanza SLN GCEA
    Southern Cross concert GCEA
    Guitars:
    Jupiter #47, G, TI CF127
    Pelem, B reentrant
    Jupiter #71, A, UG1

    !Flukutronic!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

    Default

    I just received a set of PhD low g GCEA for baritone strings. They feel better than the Martin and D'Addario. I believe that they're going to work for me.
    Thanks all for the advice!

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DownUpDave View Post
    As I posted in your other thread this is the answer for less tension......concert strings. Going to baritone strings will be going up in thickness (more tension) and hurt your fingers even more. As I said last post I have a 19” super tension and have Living Water concert strings on it, they are easily long enough to fit. As another said you can replace the high G string from the set with a Fremont soloist, that is exactly what I have done.
    I'd need them to be at least 30" long. I'd be surprised to see concert strings that long!
    I've kept the wound string, I believe it's a baritone D, from the Oasis GPX set on the super tenor. Works perfectly, with a little string slap when played really hard. No problem with me though.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Honolulu
    Posts
    931

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ripock View Post
    I'm sorry, but I don't know what compliance means for ukulele strings.
    I thought you were referring to environmental conscious packaging and and manufacturing! I refer a bright silver wound D'Addario tone—can control brightness and string noise with my touch—but if you want a default rolled off timbre, try the Thomastik-InFeld CF30 Chrome Steel Flat Wound. When new, it sounds pleasantly dull like my D'Addario after months of playing.

    Kala Elite models (I own 3) seem to be designed to be hit hard—and sound best with a firm stroke/strum—hence the stiff bracing and heavy strings. If you want a lighter fluorocarbon string, you might have to custom size to taste. I like a .022" first string, .027" or .028" second string, .032" third and .028" wound low G. If you don't mind a little volume loss and mainly do light finger style, you can go as low as .020" for 1st, .026" 2nd, .029" 3rd and .026" silver wound low G. I love the sound of Seaguar Pink leader on my Kala Elites: sweet nylon like tone but with the longer sustain, thinner diameter and fast play-in of fluorocarbon. Because of the stiff soundboard design of Elite models, even lighter strings have surprising resistance.
    Last edited by gochugogi; 12-26-2019 at 11:28 AM.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hanks View Post
    Yes


    If you look at my signature, you'll see that I have a lot of different tunings, which I think is a good thing. Generally I want my 19" ukes at lower tunings as I can get GCEA at tenor or concert scale, but if you want GCEA baritone, the LW set is a good option.
    I'm really only comfortable with C-tuning, low-G GCEA, on the super tenor. The people I play with use standard tuning sheet music and videos. Maybe in future I'll branch out, but, I'm a beginner. This is the sole reason for sticking with C tuning for the moment. I currently have little interest in figuring out the myriad of special tunings that you experts love!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gochugogi View Post
    I thought you were referring to environmental conscious packaging and and manufacturing! I refer a bright silver wound D'Addario tone—can control brightness and string noise with my touch—but if you want a default rolled off timbre, try the Thomastik-InFeld CF30 Chrome Steel Flat Wound. When new, it sounds pleasantly dull like my D'Addario after months of playing.

    Kala Elite models (I own 3) seem to be designed to be hit hard—and sound best with a firm stroke/strum—hence the stiff bracing and heavy strings. If you want a lighter fluorocarbon string, you might have to custom size to taste. I like a .022" first string, .027" or .028" second string, .032" third and .028" wound low G. If you don't mind a little volume loss and mainly do light finger style, you can go as low as .020" for 1st, .026" 2nd, .029" 3rd and .026" silver wound low G. I love the sound of Seaguar Pink leader on my Kala Elites: sweet nylon like tone but with the longer sustain, thinner diameter and fast play-in of fluorocarbon. Because of the stiff soundboard design of Elite models, even lighter strings have surprising resistance.
    I just measured the PHd strings, strung and under proper tension:
    1. .50mm .0185"
    2. .64mm .0250"
    3. .71mm .0275"

    It sounds like you're needing more tension to create the sound you want. I'm looking for less tension. Unless your strings are Clear/Colored Nylon, these PHd are clear fluorocarbon.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Honolulu
    Posts
    931

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ukeanixi View Post
    I just measured the PHd strings, strung and under proper tension:
    1. .50mm .0185"
    2. .64mm .0250"
    3. .71mm .0275"

    It sounds like you're needing more tension to create the sound you want. I'm looking for less tension. Unless your strings are Clear/Colored Nylon, these PHd are clear fluorocarbon.
    Actually the string specs I quoted are much lighter than what shipped with my last Elite. The stock 1st string (A) on my Koa Elite was .028"—ah friggen cable compared to .022" or .020"! To put that in perspective, on my 20" scale Kanile'a GL6 I use a .022" for the 1st string (A) and it's plenty stiff. But, yeah, I want the least tension that is able to produce a nice tone. .018 or .0185" is too thin for me: flat at the octave and snaps if I dig in just a wee bit.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gochugogi View Post
    Actually the string specs I quoted are much lighter than what shipped with my last Elite. The stock 1st string (A) on my Koa Elite was .028"—ah friggen cable compared to .022" or .020"! To put that in perspective, on my 20" scale Kanile'a GL6 I use a .022" for the 1st string (A) and it's plenty stiff. But, yeah, I want the least tension that is able to produce a nice tone. .018 or .0185" is too thin for me: flat at the octave and snaps if I dig in just a wee bit.
    I understand. I've not had that issue with the PHd, didn't seem to give me any trouble at the octave, sounds good to me.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •