Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Stew Mac kit question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Near Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    788

    Default Stew Mac kit question

    I bought a Stew Mac Baritone kit. I knew that the supplied back is plywood. I'm planning to attempt a solid back (worst case I fail and use the supplied, laminated back).

    I have a two piece bookmatched mahogany blank. Do I plane it first and then glue the two halves together or do I glue them together and plane?

    If I plane first do I join the two halves while I brace the back, or do I glue them together and then brace the back?

    Thanks!

    I have built cigar box ukes so I am familiar with surfacing to a precise thickness.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Cumbria, NW England
    Posts
    537

    Default

    You don't say how thick your wood is currently. I think most people glue the 2 halves together first (assuming they are now about 4 or 5 mm) then reduce to 3 mm or thereabouts. If your wood is currently much thicker than 5 mm, then you could plane it down a little before joining.

    You can only brace the back when you are happy its at the correct thickness. Once its braced you cant remove material from the inside and being braced (with curved braces) sort of hinders removal of material from the outside too. The actual thickness of the back and how even it is isn't nearly as important as for the soundboard. Dont be tempted to make a flat back as it may look concave from day one or end up concave as the wood dries out.

    I am a hobby builder. I now have a drum sander but made about 25 ukes without one, planing and scraping by hand. We all do things differently so dont be surprised if someone disagrees with what I have said!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Near Cincinnati, OH
    Posts
    788

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by greenscoe View Post
    You don't say how thick your wood is currently. I think most people glue the 2 halves together first (assuming they are now about 4 or 5 mm) then reduce to 3 mm or thereabouts. If your wood is currently much thicker than 5 mm, then you could plane it down a little before joining.

    You can only brace the back when you are happy its at the correct thickness. Once its braced you cant remove material from the inside and being braced (with curved braces) sort of hinders removal of material from the outside too. The actual thickness of the back and how even it is isn't nearly as important as for the soundboard. Dont be tempted to make a flat back as it may look concave from day one or end up concave as the wood dries out.

    I am a hobby builder. I now have a drum sander but made about 25 ukes without one, planing and scraping by hand. We all do things differently so dont be surprised if someone disagrees with what I have said!
    Yeah, I knew that I couldn't thin it after I braced it. I just wondered if I join the very thin halves before bracing or during.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pondoro View Post

    I have a two piece bookmatched mahogany blank. Do I plane it first and then glue the two halves together or do I glue them together and plane?


    Glue first and then plane to thickness.

    Otherwise, what if you plane to thickness and then make a small misalignment during the glue process? Or nick one of the edges you want to glue to make the center seam?

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •