
Originally Posted by
bazuku
If you have come up with a figure of 1.26mm, I assume that you have a good understanding of scale length measurement and accurate fret placement. Measurement is from the centre of the first fret crown to the nut departure point.
There are two ways to remedy this problem. One is the making of a stepped nut to overhang the fret board, and the other is to remove the nut and trim the fret board slightly to adjust the placement of the nut departure point. The second option is the easiest and quickest.
If you want to try this, remove the strings, and then the nut by placing a small wooden block under the lip and giving it a sharp upward tap with a light mallet/hammer. At worst, this may remove a tiny bit of glued neck wood along with the nut. If the nut is entrenched in heavy lacquer, pre-score its outline with a sharp scalpel to prevent chipping of the lacquer and consequential repair.
With the nut removed, a small guide block can be accurately and squarely clamped to the neck and used as a reference for a razor saw cut to shorten the fret board by the required amount. I use a razor saw with a reinforced spine and a 0.25mm blade for this type of task. Do not cut completely through the fret board, stop the cut just before scoring the neck wood. Carefully separate the remaining sliver of fret board material from the neck with a sharp chisel held flat to the neck, coming from the peg head downward. When the sliver lifts, cut through any adhering corner grain with a sharp scalpel. The nut can then be replaced using one tiny drop of glue.
If you don't feel confident in attempting this, just leave it as is... only the intonation of the open strings is affected. It is not a difficult procedure but care and accuracy are rewarded.
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