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Thread: Lohanu tenor ukes

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
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    Quote Originally Posted by bazuku View Post
    If you have come up with a figure of 1.26mm, I assume that you have a good understanding of scale length measurement and accurate fret placement. Measurement is from the centre of the first fret crown to the nut departure point.
    There are two ways to remedy this problem. One is the making of a stepped nut to overhang the fret board, and the other is to remove the nut and trim the fret board slightly to adjust the placement of the nut departure point. The second option is the easiest and quickest.
    If you want to try this, remove the strings, and then the nut by placing a small wooden block under the lip and giving it a sharp upward tap with a light mallet/hammer. At worst, this may remove a tiny bit of glued neck wood along with the nut. If the nut is entrenched in heavy lacquer, pre-score its outline with a sharp scalpel to prevent chipping of the lacquer and consequential repair.
    With the nut removed, a small guide block can be accurately and squarely clamped to the neck and used as a reference for a razor saw cut to shorten the fret board by the required amount. I use a razor saw with a reinforced spine and a 0.25mm blade for this type of task. Do not cut completely through the fret board, stop the cut just before scoring the neck wood. Carefully separate the remaining sliver of fret board material from the neck with a sharp chisel held flat to the neck, coming from the peg head downward. When the sliver lifts, cut through any adhering corner grain with a sharp scalpel. The nut can then be replaced using one tiny drop of glue.
    If you don't feel confident in attempting this, just leave it as is... only the intonation of the open strings is affected. It is not a difficult procedure but care and accuracy are rewarded.
    Thank you for the advice!
    Where did you get the razor saw? I'm sure that I'll need one in the future...

  2. #12

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    Doh, it appears I misread and misunderstood. (so disregard previous)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett S. View Post
    Doh, it appears I misread and misunderstood. (so disregard previous)
    Duly disregarded

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

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    purchased this for the work:

    https://www.amazon.com/Zona-35-200-0...-tools&sr=1-21

    will give feedback here after use, if there is enough interest.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

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    Right. Consider the subject closed, no more posts from me on the subject.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Australia.
    Posts
    243

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    Quote Originally Posted by ukeanixi View Post
    Where did you get the razor saw?
    There is a great variety of mini/hobby/razor saws available. Some brands have models with differing blade depth, blade width and tooth count. It depends on your interests and needs, as to which is most suitable. Excel, Zona, Tamiya, Atlas all have useful offerings. The Atlas Super Saw makes smooth, but very painful cuts in fingers. Hint: Do not wipe the blade with finger pressure...it sounds like a stupid thing suggest, but is quite intuitive to do. It is also slow going through all but the softest woods, but holds its own in other thin materials.
    A browse through a large hobby store should net you a few good candidates.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Pacific Inland Empire
    Posts
    236

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    I lied. Lohanu is offering a full refund after I posted a review on the website where it was purchased. Closed matter: mfr. gets all data to feed back to China, we get two ukes and our money back, plus I was blessed with 15 hours of experience. All happy!

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