Video of bridge fitting

Timbuck

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Thanks! I learned a few things I'll use the next time I glue on a bridge.
 
This is one of the jobs that I really have to concentrate on. If I get this bit wrong, then I’ve wasted all my efforts. :(

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QThsR5c9NRA

Thank you very much for posting this video and for sharing your skills with us. I am in the process of improving the repair (restoration would overstate my skills) of a beat up Soprano that had a lifting bridge. As easier work on that Uke had gone well and my skills build I decided to pop the bridge this afternoon.

The bridge came away without too much damage and repairs were minimal. It was then a case of removing old glue and marking out with pencil and masking tape where the bridge should go back to. Your video helped enormously with the marking out logic and I managed to glue and ‘clamp’ the bridge in place. It looks tidy so there’s a chance it’s right. My old Uke isn’t as well made as your Ukes and hence I discovered that the neck is slightly out of line with the body. I fudged the side to side position a little but it should be fine and certainly a lot better than before I started the job.

Whatever, the improvements move forward and I learn as I go; education is a reward in itself but I’m still hoping that it will end up being a nice little player.
 
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Hi Ken,

I watched this video a while ago and other than your clever yet seemingly obvious jig (why didn't I think of that?) the thing that struck me the most is that you are applying finish before gluing the bridge. I like that! Makes rubbing out the finish so much easier!

I am currently applying finish (polyurethane) to 2 ukes, planning to locate and scrape the soundboard for the bridge, as in the video, after polishing.

Any final words of advise before I get there???

Thanks for the vid!
 
I watched this video a while ago and other than your clever yet seemingly obvious jig (why didn't I think of that?) the thing that struck me the most is that you are applying finish before gluing the bridge. I like that! Makes rubbing out the finish so much easier!

When I bought the $150 Gold Tone banjo uke, it came with a jig like that to position the bridge. Clever.

I've seen the finish and bridge applied both ways. Usually, the area for the bridge is taped before it is finished. When I made the StewMac tenor kit, that's what the instructions said to do.
 
When I bought the $150 Gold Tone banjo uke, it came with a jig like that to position the bridge. Clever.

I've seen the finish and bridge applied both ways. Usually, the area for the bridge is taped before it is finished. When I made the StewMac tenor kit, that's what the instructions said to do.

Yes, that is what I have been doing, but for me, the appeal of doing it the way Ken shows is how much easier I think rubbing out the finish will be, not having to work around the bridge. Also, as I am spraying the poly, I tend to get too much buildup, no doubt due to poor technique. This tends to make removing the tape at the bridge a bit problematic, esp if I wait too long and the poly has hardened too much.

We'll see. I have 2 ukes almost ready for rubbing...
 
Hi tim , great video , as usual . on a different note , can you tell me
what the thread is on the jet drum sander please ( height adjusment )

It's an odd ball thread Steve and you cant get a tap that size ..the size is 14mm dia X 18 tpi ..The standard 9/16" UNF is just a bit too big.
Anyway you talked me into making more kits in your PM...See new thread :)
 
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