Old Island Soprano - from the book

I just completed this "Old Island Style" soprano, following the instructions from Graham McDonald's book, The Ukulele - An Illustrated Workshop Manual. It came out pretty good!

I used cherry for the entire body and neck, spruce braces, solid basswood (non-kerfed) back linings and solid oak for the top linings (2 ply). Other than that, followed the plan pretty much to the letter, including making the inside-mold/crucifix jig assembly jig thing. Also used the "rule of 18" fret spacing.

Using the inside mold - I think this is a bit inferior to the more modern, outside mold technique. For one, the sides cupped a bit inwards when clamped to dry, whereas I don't think they would have if clamped on an outside mold. Also was pretty tricky getting the sides lined up in the neck slots working upside down and "blind". Not sure I will attempt this building style again.

As for the fretboardless, direct to neck frets - a couple observations: I didn't take this into account when carving the thickness of the neck, so probably came out a bit thin. I should have left and extra 1/8 inch (to account for what would normally by a fretboard) instead of going down the a typical 1/2 inch. Also should have used more of a back angle for the headstock (I used 14 degrees, should have been 15 or 16), and also should have made the face of the headstock "lower" or a bit recessed from the top of the fretting surface (to simulate the "notch" created by a fretboard being there). As a result of these, the action is forever going to be a bit high on this one, since I can't take the nut down any further or else lose the break angle.

I will say that I DO really like the way this one looks and sounds, and will probably continue building a few more with this body shape.

Love the look of this uke. Simple, clean and probably sounds great.

Beautiful! I love this traditional style of uke.

Thanks for the kind words! I also like the simple, primitive style of these. And thanks to Graham, for the great book and including the plans for this one.

Looks like a real Ukulele and not like a mini accoustic guitar ..I made a batch of e'm the same way ..to get the action right you need a flat ukulele shaped caul when gluing and clamping on the top.

Its a nice looking uke. Glad to read that you are happy with its looks and the way it sounds.

It's good to see that someone is not just buying the book but using it to make a uke. I bought a copy and may also use it to try this form of building at some point. Apart from Ken (Timbuck), I dont recall seeing anyone showing us this style of uke.

I've just checked back to see your previous posts because I thought you had made something interesting in the past. I was correct-you seem to like the old shapes (1st and 2nd ukes). I'm wondering if this is only your third uke or have you been making and not posting details of them on this forum?

Nice work, Hoji. That's a proper ukulele! The colour and grain pattern of the timber even has a slight resemblance to Koa - good choice.

I am the present custodian of one from the batch to which Ken Timms refers (above). It was badly damaged when it came to me (been trodden on, I believe) but it's now a delightful little thing.

John Colter

I am glad it worked out. Full credit to Ken who did it first. Always interested in seeing ukuleles that have come out of the book. If anyone who bought the book from Amazon feels inspired enough, a review or two on the Amazon page would be useful and much appreciated.
Cheers,

greenscoe said:

Its a nice looking uke. Glad to read that you are happy with its looks and the way it sounds.

It's good to see that someone is not just buying the book but using it to make a uke. I bought a copy and may also use it to try this form of building at some point. Apart from Ken (Timbuck), I dont recall seeing anyone showing us this style of uke.

I've just checked back to see your previous posts because I thought you had made something interesting in the past. I was correct-you seem to like the old shapes (1st and 2nd ukes). I'm wondering if this is only your third uke or have you been making and not posting details of them on this forum?

Click to expand...

Yep, I took a break from building ukes in 2019 and trying to get back into it. But now I have to relearn a lot. This is my third one. the old classic shapes... yeah, I figured a good path would be to start at the beginning, if that makes sense.

Anyway, here's more detail on my headstock angle and action issue. It's pretty obvious I was building with a fretboard in mind, subconsciously. I also probably made the head veneer too thick. You can see what I mean by not enough room to lower that nut any more. Next one will be better.

I had the very same problem with a "frets directly into the neck" effort some years ago. I sorted it out by using a zero fret and arranging the nut to press down on the strings thus providing the required angle. A bit strange, but it worked!

John Colter

ukantor said:

I had the very same problem with a "frets directly into the neck" effort some years ago. I sorted it out by using a zero fret and arranging the nut to press down on the strings thus providing the required angle. A bit strange, but it worked!

John ColterView attachment 125723

Click to expand...

Nice! I also see you made your own pegs. I was actually considering that, as they seem like the appropriate thing for this type of uke. The shaver and reamers needed seem expensive, and I'm wondering how well they work in practice. I might give them a go, still, at some point. What's been your experience with them? Do they actually stay in tune? I'm happy with the Grovers, except for the shiny metal and plastic.

The uke in question was inspired by the Kabosi from Madagascar. I call it a Ukabosi. I used only hand tools, and tried to keep it simple and unsophisticated - even a bit crude. I carved the pegs entirely by hand (including the tapered portions) and made my own reamer from one half of a pair of scissors. Much lapping in was required, using sandpaper, to get a decent fit of pegs to tapered holes. It was all very laborious and time consuming. I don't recommend it, and I certainly wouldn't do it again! I'd imagine that having a suitable shaver and reamer would make the job much easier.

The pegs are tricky to use, but hold tune well.

John Colter