Laminated Arch Back

That slot cutting footage is the luthier's equivalent of the shower scene from 'Psycho' … a brutish coarse-toothed implement being wielded upon a cowering fret board … nightmare material. After my palpitations subsided, I thought 'Phew thank God it was only a bass'... but, before all the bassist brethren rush to ignite their flamethrowers, let me claim that my time fumbling up and down the bass neck qualifies me to joke about it.
More seriously though, by modern standards, my own fret slotting technique is primitive. I have only ever used a hand held saw (with depth stop), home-made aluminium fret scale rulers, a marking blade, and a true-squared wooden block for a guide (all applied with a healthy dose of trepidation).

Speaking of fretboards got me doing some measurements on different templates. One from Stewmac and one from Waldron. It occurs to me now (a bit too late) why some of my builds don’t sound the same! Argh!5668D84F-9E57-4C25-9269-115A6B7D0371.jpg648286AF-5382-4F29-8BE1-9AB059BEC84F.jpg228B4559-63E9-4404-8109-8CD52C36B4A6.jpg Think I’ll make my own from here on!
 
A few thoughts on scale length and fret placement that may prove helpful to new builders:
A scale length does not have to comply with any set standards. As long as it is suitable for the instrument's design, it can be calculated to place the bridge exactly where the builder wants it to be.
With online calculators now available, the required scale length can be accurately recalculated to shorten or lengthen any scale length incrementally, as required.
The difficulty here is finding a scale ruler to suit. This is what led me to making my own from thin aluminium sheeting that can be easily cut and scored. With heavy duty scissors/shears, an accurate 400mm rule and a marking knife, I can make a new scale rule to any length necessary. A headset magnifier may be necessary to ensure that the marking knife lands in the precise location.
One thing that I found through my own laziness, is to mark each rule with the correct identification, as it is finished … with a few different unidentified scale lengths lying around it is too easy to pick up and use the wrong one.
The main requirement to make these easily, is to procure aluminium sheeting of the right thickness. I got mine from a craft shop many years ago (I have no idea of its original intended use). It cuts easily with shears and scores readily for the fret position reference nicks.
If the sheeting is too thick, it becomes an engineering project to produce these, and takes away the ease and spontaneity of being able to produce any required length in about one half-hour.
Oh, and one final thing, triple check your measurements before use.
 
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The fretting templates from SM and Waldron are different because the scale lengths are different.
Stewmac got their tenor fretting template wrong as they added the compensation 3/32" to teh usual tenor 17" scale and made 17" 3/32 the scale length.
So now you gotta add 2 or 3 32nds to 17 3/32"

I emailed them about it but they seemed unconcerned.

PS- 17 3/32" isn't "Wrong", but it is wrong in this case as it is rather obvious what they did (accidently add the compensation to teh scale).

I call it "numb nuttery"
 
I call it "numb nuttery"

Yeah, I also pointed this out to them but, you know, it was a done deal. Somebody wasn't paying attention that day or just didn't understand. Just goes to show you that even people who should know better continue to be confused by scale length and compensation.... The final scale length with compensation would be 17 3/16th.
 
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