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Thread: binding glue?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Petaluma, CA
    Posts
    264

    Default binding glue?

    I'm putting wood (Mahogany) binding on the latest rescue.
    I don't really care for Red cap Titebond. I was thinking CA gel and an accelerant. Hide glue would work under different hands. I haven't gotten consistent results with small batches or the timing for it to work on contact. Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Umeň, Sweden
    Posts
    296

    Default

    Plain titebond or simple white glue here imho. No CA or hide glue, but that might do too concerning how used you are to work with the glue. regards
    Last edited by Henning; 03-09-2020 at 10:30 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Australia.
    Posts
    227

    Default

    If it is a new route, (new wood to new wood), just use Red Cap with copious tape. If you are redoing an old glue up, you will have to clean out all of the old glue from the channel, and make sure the new binding is a good fit, then use Red Cap with copious tape.
    You get more 'fiddle time' with Titebond, and unless you are well-practised with the CA technique, you can get into a fair mess, with lots of resultant clean up and sanding to get things to a suitable state for refinishing. Be sure to prepare well and have no visible gaps if using Titebond.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Petaluma, CA
    Posts
    264

    Default

    Thanks for the advise, I will carefully address the visible gap issue.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Little River, California
    Posts
    2,403

    Default

    I'm still a huge proponent of CA glue for binding and don't find it particularly messy. Tape binding to channel, apply thin #10 CA glue (not that much), apply accelerator, remove tape, sand and you are good to go...

    But whatever works for you is the way to go.

  6. #6

    Default

    One trick that turned binding from a nightmarish ordeal into an enjoyable one for me was switching from binding tape and CA to using 1\2" strips of bike innertube and titebond. The strips put exactly the right amount of pressure where needed, and are reusable. I just work on one quarter of the ukulele at a time.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Petaluma, CA
    Posts
    264

    Default

    I used the CA. I does provide a quick turnaround for further finishing. slight misalignments require some creative filling. Titebond will be used next time.
    "It's the process"

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    460

    Default

    Fish glue! Lots of time to fiddle. Mind you I also used CA and Titebond. The biggest thing is a well fitting binding. Scrape the inside corner of the binding to give it a slight bevel or clean out the inside area well of the channel. Sort of like removing a little of the neck when you floss to get a good fit.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Little River, California
    Posts
    2,403

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PetalumaRescuke View Post
    slight misalignments require some creative filling...
    Ain't that the truth... I've found that truing up and cleaning the channel in problem places makes a world of difference and saves time on micro-filling. To do this you absolutely have to have an aggressive pillar file with a "safe" edge. I sprang for the SMD one ($15) and it is worth the money spent. Of course you can make your own by grinding off the edge on a cheaper file, but the size seems just right for the job.

    Pillar_File.jpg

  10. #10

    Default

    I've been using "Titebond Translucent". It's perfect for wood binding. I'm also using a DAP Rapid Fuse glue for wood (it's CA), which has a 30 minute working time. I don't think I'll ever use thin CA again, not for binding.

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