Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23

Thread: Martin S1 Owners: strings

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    267

    Default

    No real reason to switch off from the Martin fluorocarbons. The M600s are excellent on the S1 which, in my opinion, shines with the clear and crisp sound of fluorocarbon. The aforementioned Martin premium strings are worth a try as well if you can stand the feel of them (I couldn't). They take the edge off of the incredible jangle of the S1 ever so slightly while still sounding jangly enough for a soprano. Other popular fluorocarbons, like Worth or Living Waters, work very well also, especially clear strings.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    NY, USA
    Posts
    81

    Default

    M600 set works well; too good to change, IMO.
    Greg
    Greg_C.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dohle View Post
    No real reason to switch off from the Martin fluorocarbons. The M600s are excellent on the S1 which, in my opinion, shines with the clear and crisp sound of fluorocarbon. The aforementioned Martin premium strings are worth a try as well if you can stand the feel of them (I couldn't). They take the edge off of the incredible jangle of the S1 ever so slightly while still sounding jangly enough for a soprano. Other popular fluorocarbons, like Worth or Living Waters, work very well also, especially clear strings.
    I suppose I should give the m600’s a chance before switching out. Thanks for the input

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gregc View Post
    M600 set works well; too good to change, IMO.
    Greg
    Ok well another vote for the m600’s. I will wait and give them a good tryout before trying another set. Apparently these are made for this Uke.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    Both of the Martin strings are really nice. I agree that the new premium strings, which are less familiar are also really good strings, just a slightly different flavor.

    Of others people have mentioned, I can also vouch that Living Waters, and both clear and brown Worth strings are really nice.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Posts
    570

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astein2006 View Post
    I suppose I should give the m600’s a chance before switching out. Thanks for the input
    Ah, if you have never play an S1 with the M600, I’d suggest you keep it on. The S1 and M600 is a very good match and can be set as a reference point if you wish to change the strings for a different taste in the future.
    aNueNue Moon Bird US200 || Kamaka HF-1 || Martin S-1 Uke || Eddy Finn EFTS-20-S || Kala KA-SLNG || Martin C1K Uke || Yamaha GL1
    Check out my ukulele themed paintings in UU forum thread

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Posts
    153

    Default

    The folks at HMS just did 54 short clips comparing strings across three different sizes of Kanile'a and Koaloha ukuleles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hr0h0FeOQP4

    At the end, they comment on it and it's clear they all have different ideas about what they were playing - not just what they liked, but also the different, and almost opposite words for what they heard. So, buy a few of what was mentioned above and try them all. I also like the idea of using the M600 as your reference point.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    2,188

    Default

    I've owned my C1K for a little more than a year. When it was time to swap out the M600s, I tried the polyguts. I like 'em. A lot.

    My vintage Martin sop has Worth Browns, also nice.

    The polyguts seem to have slightly less tension than the M600s but lose none of the precision.

    Of course, YMMV.
    SOPRANOS: • 1920s Gibson UKE1 (Olympian label) • 1930s Martin 2M • Ohana SK-28 ‘Nunes’ • Flea koa • Ohana SK-35G solid mahogany • Famous FS-1
    CONCERTS: • Martin C1K • Enya Nova U (blue) • Ohana CK-50WG (solid cedar top) • Firefly maple banjolele • Makala MK-CE
    OBJETS D'ART: • Vintage 'Mauna Loa' c. 1925 soprano • Kahuna "Felix the Cat" soprano • Woodrow "Steelers" soprano

    Raleigh Uke Jam:

    My YouTube page

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hendulele View Post
    I've owned my C1K for a little more than a year. When it was time to swap out the M600s, I tried the polyguts. I like 'em. A lot.

    My vintage Martin sop has Worth Browns, also nice.

    The polyguts seem to have slightly less tension than the M600s but lose none of the precision.

    Of course, YMMV.
    How were the poly guts different in terms of sound? I’m not concerned with feel. I come from a guitar background so I’m used to tension and the strings biting into my fingers. I also have a vintage Martin style O with m600’s which it sounds great with. But I’m sure it would sound great with anything on it. But I’m curious on the poly guts in regards to real world sound differences. Especially from you who has had experience with both the m600’s and polyguts on the same instrument.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    222

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hendulele View Post
    I've owned my C1K for a little more than a year. When it was time to swap out the M600s, I tried the polyguts. I like 'em. A lot.

    My vintage Martin sop has Worth Browns, also nice.

    The polyguts seem to have slightly less tension than the M600s but lose none of the precision.

    Of course, YMMV.
    By the way what’s on your sk-28? I have an sk-39 with browns.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •