Timbuck
Well-known member
I though about doing it this way after reading about something similar by David Hurd.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8fIy9XbAnA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8fIy9XbAnA
Mrs T doesn’t like to finish with the neck joined and fret board fitted, it gives her problems..So I try and get the joint as good as possible first ..even then I find that after the FP is applied the joint still needs more flossing work.That's an interesting video Ken. When its French polished, is it undetectable?
I know Mrs T finishes the box and neck separately. If the two were joined before finishing, it suggests that simply gluing together with Translucent Titebond and sawdust and careful clean up would also result in a 'perfect joint'. What do you reckon?
And if you’ve got some plain old Elmer’s white household glue it works better than Titebond.
I looked on eBay UK for Elmers glue ...there are loads of em School glue, PVA glue, Clear glue, Slime glue, etc: ...as I have an almost full bottle of Titebond translucent, I’ll stick with ..it works ok for meI’ve never used “transparent” glue. But here’s a trick I learned from building furniture where you sometimes need to correct minor imperfections. When wood dust gets wet it usually turns it a darker color that the original wood, so if you can, try to make some dust from a lighter colored wood. And if you’ve got some plain old Elmer’s white household glue it works better than Titebond.
I know you can mix dye or stain with Titebond while wet...but I think once cured it won’t absorb...maybe it depends on % of the mix...experiment needed again.I'd be interested to know if there's a glue that when mixed with wood dust as a filler as Ken has done, that would take stain or dye once dried.
I know you can mix dye or stain with Titebond while wet...but I think once cured it won’t absorb...maybe it depends on % of the mix...experiment needed again.