1. Yes, you are absolutely right about glue seepage onto bare wood. It can mar an otherwise perfect join and there isn't much you can do about it. What you can do is prevent it from happening in the first place. Don't use so much glue and don't smear the squeeze out. Wait a little bit until it starts to set and then use a sharp chisel to remove it. Some let the glue start to set before joining and then clean up, but I feel this can decrease the effectiveness of the glue. Also create barriers by using masking tape or a coat the wood with a thin layer of shellac (shellac is your friend!).
2. Sure. But it is so easy to just use big dowels to make them. And do not buy them!
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Way overpriced. $42 bucks for 6. Ridiculous.
I made dozens out of scrap wood by using a hole saw (maybe 40mm) to cut the end circles, threaded rod and wingnuts to tighten. Cost of $1.50(?) each.so easy to just use big dowels to make them
I made dozens out of scrap wood by using a hole saw (maybe 40mm) to cut the end circles, threaded rod and wingnuts to tighten. Cost of $1.50(?) each.
Miguel
1. From my experience, if glue seeps out of a joint and gets into the wood, the wood does not accept stain. What's the solution?
2. Spool clamps are commonly used to hold parts of a uke together for gluing. Wouldn't square blocks be more efficient than round ones - more surface area?
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The square ones are exactly the ones I made, they worked better than my round ones.
Would a 10-32 threaded rod be thick enough? I see them and wing nuts on Amazon. The 1/4-20 rods are getting into the price range that I would be hard to justify, considering the limited use I would have for them. How long are those rods?