Explorer77
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Is it perfectly fine to glue veneer with Titebound? Or do you need a special veneer adhesive?
Veneer Glue?
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OP
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Explorer77
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No, I want to use either Titebond or TB2..
BuzzBD
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The problem with Titebond and veneers is bleed through of the glue. And if that occurs, there is no way that you can apply a finish over it without looking like hell. I know this because I have tried it using veneers from Woodcraft. What I did discover that works very well is Franklin’s Liquid Hide Glue. You get the convenience of a glue out of a bottle but bleed through is not a problem because a damp cloth removes most of it, and what little that’s left does not show under the finish.
Brad
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Red Cliff
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What or how much are you veneering? If it is just a peghead then just about anything will work. But if it is a large area or complex shape then that is a bit different.
Uke-alot
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FWIW, some specific veneer glues are aliphatic resin glues like Titebond, so lots of people are using that type of glue for veneer. I've used original Titebond on cherry and curly maple veneer with no issues at all with accepting finish. There was no glue bleed through. I'm thinking this could potentially be a problem with some veneers (e.g. burls and others more prone to microscopic cracking), but well-behaved veneers should be fine. The amount of glue used could also contribute to bleed-through. I like using a rubber roller to get a uniform layer that's just enough.
The OP could glue up a piece of scrap veneer to a substrate and see what happens.
Beau Hannam Ukuleles
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The best glue depends on what you are veneering.
If its a uke or guitar back, then epoxy is the only glue to use.
If its a uke or guitar back, then epoxy is the only glue to use.
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Explorer77
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Why is that?
Beau Hannam Ukuleles
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If you use titebond, the whole thing buckles- epoxy has no water content so doesn't buckle
Michael N.
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Hammer veneering works extremely well with thin veneers, around 0.6 mm. The 'trick' is to get the veneer floppy before applying the glue. It kind of goes against the rule of not gluing to damp surfaces but with using HHG and hammer veneering that is exactly what you want.
With thicker veneers (1 mm and over) hammer veneering is much more problematic. You have to move to caul or vacuum veneering. Of course it's perfectly possible to do that but you do need a good set up. With HHG you are against the clock but that is exactly what they did in the early to mid 19th century when laminating guitar backs. With Ukuleles there's much less surface area so things should go a bit quicker.
jcalkin
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Just don't use the stuff sold as veneer glue. It is a form of contact cement. Decades ago I veneered the tops of a few hammered dulcimers. I got away with it. When I tried it on table and counter tops it bubbled up and the kids picked at it until it came off. One of the many reasons I hate to make furniture.
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