String break angle help

Ukakuka

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I have been doing some reading on string break angle at the saddle of my first soprano project and have a question as to the proper break angle at the nut and hoping to for some help.

The neck angle is 0 degree angle. The head stock angle is 13 degrees. So what would be optimal angle for the ramp of the nut? How does the angle of the headstock play into the equation or, does it at all?
 
I use a 15 degree angle for the headstock and mirror that with a 15 degree angle for the top of the nut. That's just for aesthetics. I also try to get the same angle for the slots in the nut but as long as the slot slopes downwards from the fretboard to the headstock the angle is not all that critical. Others may disagree?
Miguel
 
I like to make half-round nuts and then roll the slots off the back of the nut---less chance of a string getting hung up on the front of the slot.
 
Thanks for all the replies. Very helpful information. A few more details, the nut I made is pinned with no slots and is a copycat of Jerry Hoffman’s pinned style nut. It is 3/16” thick. The string landing is cut at about .017ish bottom of string to top of fret crown.

The ramps don’t have much string break angle. Only about 6 or 7 degrees so there is a lot of string contact to the nut. Adding more angle would reduce that contact and I was wondering what affect, if any, that would have on tone or, string tension?

Thanks again for reading my post. Probably overthinking again but, I don’t want to screw up the nut since it was so much work to make.
 
After you've made a few dozen nuts your work time should be 20-30 minutes, total. Making new, nicely polished nuts is one of the more lucrative repair projects.
 
After you've made a few dozen nuts your work time should be 20-30 minutes, total. Making new, nicely polished nuts is one of the more lucrative repair projects.

Yeah, making nuts gets pretty easy after awhile. The key to things (as always) is having the right tools and set up. Without the proper vise and files it can be an awkward operation.
 
After you've made a few dozen nuts your work time should be 20-30 minutes, total. Making new, nicely polished nuts is one of the more lucrative repair projects.

Haha, the day I can get to making a Hoffman style pinned nut in 30 mins will be more than welcome. I just think its a brilliant design. Just gotta get it a little more dialed in. For giggles n shits, here’s a couple of pics at my feeble attempts.

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8439EB69-4F56-440F-836A-219F33EF1E31.jpg
A59FEA84-3313-4EBB-9FA7-755602B137A8.jpg
 
I think as long as it's not MORE than the headstock angle, you're good.

Unless it's a slotted headstock, ....then it can't be anything other then more of an angle then the headstock.
 
Thanks again for the kind replies. The concept of minimum break angle is pretty clear (even for me) but, the question still begs - is there an optimal break angle to balance string tension, playing comfort and, sonic affect? There are a few online string tension calculators but, way beyond my level of intellect. Just looking for an easy answer to be done with it and move on.
 
Thanks again for the kind replies. The concept of minimum break angle is pretty clear (even for me) but, the question still begs - is there an optimal break angle to balance string tension, playing comfort and, sonic affect? There are a few online string tension calculators but, way beyond my level of intellect. Just looking for an easy answer to be done with it and move on.

I can't see how the break angle can affect any of the factors you mention. String tension is a function of string gauge, scale length, and pitch. Playing comfort is controlled by string gauge, pitch, and action height. The sonic effect is mostly a matter of body construction. Too little break angle can permit the strings to jump out of the nut slots. Other than that you can hardly go wrong.
 
Agree with our learned friend above.
Can anyone explain the benefits of the Hoffman pinned bridge? I can't see any obvious ones.
Miguel
 
Sorry for beating a dead horse and, thank you everyone for sharing your expertise on this trivial aspect. With the help of the forum members I have a much better concept of what to do moving forward.

That is, keeping as little break angle as possible on the nut in relation to the headstock angle. That way if for any future reason it can be increased at any time.

As to the question of the benefits of a Hoffman style nut. 1. There is no wear of slots which may require a new nut, 2. the design allows for any size of string change without fiddle farting around refilling slots to accommodate new string size. But, to each his own.

Thanks again
 
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Consider that the break angle will be different for the two outer strings than the two inner as the tuner posts are further out. And the height of your posts has an effect on the angle, etc. I see all of this as a non-issue really. Just make sure the ramps are sharp enough for the angle to follow a logical path to the tuner post. And get your strings to wind down close to the base of the tuner post.
 
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