Is This an Acceptable B-stock Blemish?

Just wondering what counts as an acceptable B-stock blemish. For an otherwise new instrument, does B-stock mean superficial only, or does it also includes dings, dents, and the like?

Would the chip in the binding pictured below be acceptable as B-stock?

B-stock can mean just about anything but shouldn't be anything that would affect playability or sound. Whether it is "acceptable" is really up to the buyer.

That's what my Moku looks like after I had dropped it, but where the back and side meet on the lower bout.

This is beyond a blemish. It is actual damage. Keep in mind, that may not affect the sound, playability, or long term life of the instrument, but it takes a pretty healthy whack to do that.

A blemish is a mark or fingerprint under the finish.

IMO B stock is usually more imperfections from manufacturing. Like maybe some pooling or bubbling of the top coat, or a ding in the wood that got covered by finish or an inlay or something thats off centered.

This just looks like it got absolutely nailed by something.

Can you feel the ding? How much are they discounting it? For the right price it might be acceptable for you.

Jim Hanks said:

B-stock can mean just about anything but shouldn't be anything that would affect playability or sound. Whether it is "acceptable" is really up to the buyer.

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:agree: Is it acceptable to you?

My understanding is that "B-stock" originally meant "Back Stock". Which includes items returned and can't be sold as A-stock. It can include: Blemishes, Dings and Dents. Which covers a lot of ground.

"Factory Seconds" usually means: the result of minor cosmetic flaws that don't affect their function or durability.

But really, the manufacturers have their own quality standards that determines what qualifies as either. Some use both B-stack with slight cosmetic blemishes. Factory Second having bigger, more obvious flaws but stills functions correctly.

I never buy a blem or second without an exact description of the imperfections with photos if possible. I have purchased a couple of ukes where the described flaws were much worse than described. One with hidden internal damage and the other with a top that had come away from the side. One I returned for a full refund, the other I paid $50 instead of $500 and had it repaired.

FROM REVERB:
What Does B-Stock Mean?

Many items on Reverb are listed in "B-Stock" condition. These items may have been opened and then returned to the seller, may be a brand new item with a cosmetic flaw, or may have been used as a demo unit in a store. B-Stock items are guaranteed to function as they should, and may even come with a manufacturer's warranty.

It's always a good idea to reach out to the seller of these items directly to determine why they've been listed as B-Stock and what warranty options are available. You can message the seller of the item by clicking the "Message Seller" button on the item listing.

I don't know why you're asking, but there would have to be a substantial reduction in price for me to buy that. You also have to consider the resale value.

Jerryc41 said:

I don't know why you're asking, but there would have to be a substantial reduction in price for me to buy that. You also have to consider the resale value.

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I agree. I'd probably still buy it if it was one I really wanted but I'd want a big reduction.

Counter said:

I agree. I'd probably still buy it if it was one I really wanted but I'd want a big reduction.

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I never buy with the intention of selling, but I have sold quite a few, so that has to be a consideration.

Looks like it has taken a knock at some time, so it would depend on how much of a discount is being offered, (it shouldn't affect its play ability).

Those photos make me wonder how that binding was formed. The reason for binding is to reinforce the corners with a stronger, more resilient substance. This is often a hard wood, or hard but slightly flexible synthetic material.

It might be the difficulty of photographing such a small area, and interpreting what we see, but it doesn't look like the sort of damage I would expect to see. It looks like a deep chip knocked out of a brittle material. I doubt that the finish would be thick enough to give that deep flaking effect. What is that binding made of?

It looks a bit weird to me.

John Colter

Agree with others, B stock can be however the mfger defines it. The blemish that op pictures is so obvious it should be disclosed and discounted (how much is acceptable depends on how much it bothers the eventual buyer). Also agree with knowing/seeing exactly what the "defect" is before buying. Sometimes the "something imperfect that couldn't be found" description is be accurate (and something minor that won't bother some) or could be a function of a lazy/incomplete inspection. That said, mfgers could help by denoting why something is relegated to a B stock.

Here's the background and follow-up:

I was trying to decide between two B-stock instruments from a shop on Reverb. I asked what the issues were, and for one they sent me a picture of a small cloudy mark on the rosette. For the other they said it was a hard to photograph pinhead-sized dimple on the back. I purchased the latter without pics, and was very pleased with it when I got it. I still can't find the dimple.

The same shop recently had a sale on another B-stock instrument, of which they had several in stock. I asked if the quality was as good as last time. They said it was, that the blemishes were difficult to find, and that they'd pick out the best of their stock for me if I wanted one. The sale was ending so I quickly purchased and didn't think to ask for pictures this time. Not the wisest decision, but they'd sent me such an immaculate instrument the last time, I just assumed everything would be fine again.

The pictured chips were on the plastic binding of the lower bout. I got it yesterday and thought (with a little panic): does this count as a B-stock blemish?

The good news is, they don't seem to think so. They've offered to exchange it for another one, and this time I've asked for pictures.

If the binding material responds to knocks by chips flaking off, then I wouldn't buy one of those ukes at all. Such brittle stuff is not suitable for binding.

John Colter

ukantor said:

If the binding material responds to knocks by chips flaking off, then I wouldn't buy one of those ukes at all. Such brittle stuff is not suitable for binding.

John Colter

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Maybe it's because of the gloss finish? I don't know. I do know plastic is often used for binding, though I'd much prefer wood if I had the choice. I'll defer to your knowledge about avoiding brittle binding.