Your favorite wood configuration for ‘ukulele

Thanks so much, everyone, for sharing all of your awesome thoughts and experiences — it’s incredibly helpful to me! I truly appreciate having all of your ideas, here, to give me a much broader perspective, as well as also giving me a great deal of insight!

I thought that I’d mention that another element I’m adding to my consideration in selecting woods is what I feel works best for my vocal range. Over the years I’ve been playing, I’ve found that certain woods suit my range (and style) better. I have a pretty loud voice — more of a ‘chest voice,’ I’d say, than a ‘head voice’ as a singer.

As was mentioned, strings can also help in the voicing of an instrument and I’ve been experimenting with different brands and kinds over the years. I have to be somewhat careful in string selection, tho, because I have pretty bad wrist tendinitis, so I try to use strings with less tension. I’ve actually just ordered some Uke Logic soft tension strings from Joel — I’m excited to try them out.

In typing this, I suppose — if it’s possible to achieve this — I really would just love to have an instrument that’s a ‘jack of all trades’ kind of player, rather than being great at one thing or another: I only have enough $ for one build; I write and play a variety of music — I strum and I fingerpick; whatever I go with, I’d like my instrument to be able to be flexible in that regard. I know that there is no perfect solution — there will always be strengths, weaknesses, etc.

Time is also another element to add to the equation in choosing my configuration; I don’t know if all woods do this, but I do know many woods will ‘open up’ more as they age.

So many things to consider — and yes, absolutely, the luthier — I totally get that, too — thanks to all for pointing this out as well. I’ve actually just reached out to a luthier a bit earlier this week.

We’ll see what happens; I’m super excited to have started this journey! Thank you so much, again, to you all for your time and input — it means a lot to me to see your feedback! :)
 
Anthony really did hit the nail on the head when he said the builder makes the most difference. I work with Luis of LfdM a lot and he said something that gave me the biggest lightbulb moment about stringed instruments I ever had. He said when when tap toning the top and voicing the instrument he is looking for a certain tone or sound. Guess what ever luthier has a preferred tone. Some might want to achieve bright, warm, punchy, resonant, loud, soft, maybe a Hawaiian sound or maybe a guitar like sound. Interview your builder so their idea of tone matches your.

I love a guitar like tone with projection, sustain and resonance. I have a spruce and rosewood, spruce and myrtle, spruce and cocobolo, spruce and bocote and a spruce and mahogany in my collection. I guess I like spruce. Good luck, having a custom build uke is a lot of fun. You are a good player and will really appreciate the difference.

DownUpDave ~ I meant to note in my other post, above — about a week or so ago, I watched the video on HMS’/TUS’s YouTube channel showcasing the LFDM custom ‘ukuleles that HMS recently received from Luis — oh my goodness, I was BLOWN away — his instruments are amazing (understatement)!!!! They are absolutely stunning — both in their visual beauty and in how incredible they sound! Oh, how I would love to have an LFDM one day! Is Luis accepting orders, still? Let me please also say that you are so very kind to refer to me as a ‘good player’ — that is something really special to hear someone tell you — thank you so much for telling me that — you are, again, so very kind. :)
 
With a loud voice, maybe a loud uke would fit the bill. I've found solid spruce tops to be the loudest. Then pair with a back & side wood of your choice. If laminate, I haven't heard much difference (YMMV), but different solids will sound different with a solid spruce top. Good luck.

Does anyone feel that different laninate woods sound very different with solid spruce tops? I'm not opposed to laminate B&S, since IMO most of the sound comes from the top.

John, yes, I agree with you about the spruce — in fact, with the ukes that I have — spruce is the ticket. I have two tenors, one baritone, and a concert all with solid spruce tops (3 of them with solid mahogany sides/back — the other with solid acacia s/b.

I do also have one cedar top tenor as well and it has definitely opened up in the 3 years I’ve had it.

I’m thinking spruce or cedar top with rosewood sides and back...for now at least.;-D
 
John, yes, I agree with you about the spruce — in fact, with the ukes that I have — spruce is the ticket. I have two tenors, one baritone, and a concert all with solid spruce tops (3 of them with solid mahogany sides/back — the other with solid acacia s/b.

I do also have one cedar top tenor as well and it has definitely opened up in the 3 years I’ve had it.

I’m thinking spruce or cedar top with rosewood sides and back...for now at least.;-D

Having been fortunate enough to go through about a dozen different tonewoods, my favorites so far are: spruce, koa, and myrtlewood.

For combinations, spruce/mahogany isn't very exotic or exciting, but so far it's been my preferred combination, though I'd like to try spruce/koa or spruce/myrtlewood.

Some woods I'm curious about: purpleheart, walnut, pau ferro, redwood, macassar ebony, and Port Orford cedar (which my understanding is not really cedar).

Though it's popular, I haven't loved cedar/rosewood combinations. However, one of the best sounding ukes (to me) I've come across on Youtube is a cedar/rosewood tenor made by Rob Collins. Which I think confirms the other comments about the builder mattering more than the materials.

You should update and let us know when you've selected woods.
 
Thanks so much, everyone, for sharing all of your awesome thoughts and experiences — it’s incredibly helpful to me! I truly appreciate having all of your ideas, here, to give me a much broader perspective, as well as also giving me a great deal of insight!

I thought that I’d mention that another element I’m adding to my consideration in selecting woods is what I feel works best for my vocal range. Over the years I’ve been playing, I’ve found that certain woods suit my range (and style) better. I have a pretty loud voice — more of a ‘chest voice,’ I’d say, than a ‘head voice’ as a singer.

As was mentioned, strings can also help in the voicing of an instrument and I’ve been experimenting with different brands and kinds over the years. I have to be somewhat careful in string selection, tho, because I have pretty bad wrist tendinitis, so I try to use strings with less tension. I’ve actually just ordered some Uke Logic soft tension strings from Joel — I’m excited to try them out.

In typing this, I suppose — if it’s possible to achieve this — I really would just love to have an instrument that’s a ‘jack of all trades’ kind of player, rather than being great at one thing or another: I only have enough $ for one build; I write and play a variety of music — I strum and I fingerpick; whatever I go with, I’d like my instrument to be able to be flexible in that regard. I know that there is no perfect solution — there will always be strengths, weaknesses, etc.

Time is also another element to add to the equation in choosing my configuration; I don’t know if all woods do this, but I do know many woods will ‘open up’ more as they age.

So many things to consider — and yes, absolutely, the luthier — I totally get that, too — thanks to all for pointing this out as well. I’ve actually just reached out to a luthier a bit earlier this week.

We’ll see what happens; I’m super excited to have started this journey! Thank you so much, again, to you all for your time and input — it means a lot to me to see your feedback! :)
Low tension and loud. This is more meaningful than wood choice. IMHO wood does not always decide loudness and the builder here matters more.
One thing you might want to know, is the difference in projection. The way I understand it, there are 2 ways an instruments can project sound, it can be loud for the player or loud for the audience in front. If you sing and play for yourself, things like side sound port and light build might be more impactful. There is a pod cast featuring Rick Turner where he talks about building for the couch player.
Instruments that are loud and work with Uke logic low tension in tenor size, I would highly recommend Pepe Romero Custom Uke. The sound is punchy and loud. They are amazing for classical music and are louder than most ukes I have tried. In baritone I would recommend Les Stansell, extremely light build and the player is the one who is most rewarded vs projecting to the end of the room. They are hypnotic and meditative for the player.
 
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If you like the the guitar like sound with clarity, sustain and beautiful ring, I strongly recommend talking to John Kinnard's representative Kevin Beddoe. I have a superb Kinnard 2 spruce/rosewood tenor that has great sound and projection. Even with a side port. It's easy to play and is beautiful to look at. The craftsmanship is outstanding.

Davis Ingalls at Ono Ukuleles is also a good guy to talk to and makes wonderful instruments as well. I have a very nice 2013 Adirondack Spruce/Bolivian Rosewood tenor that has a rich full sound and excellent sustain and projection. And it's a joy to play.
 
If you like the the guitar like sound with clarity, sustain and beautiful ring, I strongly recommend talking to John Kinnard's representative Kevin Beddoe. I have a superb Kinnard 2 spruce/rosewood tenor that has great sound and projection. Even with a side port. It's easy to play and is beautiful to look at. The craftsmanship is outstanding.

Davis Ingalls at Ono Ukuleles is also a good guy to talk to and makes wonderful instruments as well. I have a very nice 2013 Adirondack Spruce/Bolivian Rosewood tenor that has a rich full sound and excellent sustain and projection. And it's a joy to play.
+1 for Ono.
Kinnard by their own admission tend to prefer higher tension strings but this could be something you discuss with them as part of the build.
Also, checkout Mark Roberts, his build philosophy is purely focused on sound and feel. He should be able to make a uke that is loud the way you want it and works for string tension you prefer.
 
DownUpDave ~ I meant to note in my other post, above — about a week or so ago, I watched the video on HMS’/TUS’s YouTube channel showcasing the LFDM custom ‘ukuleles that HMS recently received from Luis — oh my goodness, I was BLOWN away — his instruments are amazing (understatement)!!!! They are absolutely stunning — both in their visual beauty and in how incredible they sound! Oh, how I would love to have an LFDM one day! Is Luis accepting orders, still? Let me please also say that you are so very kind to refer to me as a ‘good player’ — that is something really special to hear someone tell you — thank you so much for telling me that — you are, again, so very kind. :)

Funny you should mention Luis, wanting to match your voice and needing an all round instrument. When I commissioned my first build from Luis I said to him I that I play a wide variety of music, I strum and sing, finger pick and play chord melody. I asked him what he would suggest as the best all round instrument, with out hesitation he said spruce and rosewood. I have had fun buying trying selling or keeping ukuleles to find what I like, that first tenor is still my favorite.

You are very welcome for the compliment about your playing, it was sincere. You also have a very good voice and have good knowledge on it’s characteristics. I liked the song you just did by John Duncan in the Links and Videos subforum. Having an instrument that matches up is very helpful, I find I do better with low G on anything, I sing best in the key of A through C so the deeper sound of low G helps me out.
 
My custom ukes are made of quite a few different wood combinations. There are way too many beautiful tonewoods out there to choose only one as a favorite. If I really had to choose, I'd go with a spruce/cedar top and back and sides made of koa, I suppose.

Anyway, what I always try to go for are one-piece tops and backs, no matter what they're made of.
 
I'm curious...what are the advantages/disadvantages of one-piece tops and backs vs. two-piece? Sound? Aesthetics? Durability?

(Probably worth a separate thread. :cool:)
Yes... also it depends on your builder. Also, a lot of builders believe that one piece or booK matched does not change the sound and is purely aesthetic. I have Ken timms single piece and book matched sopranos they are all excellent
 
I'm curious...what are the advantages/disadvantages of one-piece tops and backs vs. two-piece? Sound? Aesthetics? Durability?

(Probably worth a separate thread. :cool:)

All luthiers I talked to assured me that there's no difference in tone, durability, stiffness or whatsoever. In my opinion it just looks way more natural (= gorgeous :D ). Maybe it's because I almost exclusively play sopranos. I just can't see the reason why one would bookmatch a top that tiny.
 
I have a spruce and rosewood, spruce and myrtle, spruce and cocobolo, spruce and bocote and a spruce and mahogany in my collection. I guess I like spruce.

I’m also finding spruce is one of my favorite soundboards. Would you say any of these combinations stood out as better than the others? Or do you have an order you would rank them in?
 
I have nine ukes and picked each because I liked the look and the sound. My custom gypsy jazz Django style with solid flame maple top when I first got it, did not have the sustain and projection I hoped for, but about 2 years later it had opened up and I really like the sound now. Otherwise, I don't have one favorite, though my Kala solid cedar top is the one I gig with the most.

1 Ukulele Collection.jpg



This is Michael Kohan in Los Angeles, Beverly Grove near the Beverly Center
9 tenor cutaway ukes, 4 acoustic bass ukes, 12 solid body bass ukes, 14 mini electric bass guitars (Total: 39)

• Donate to The Ukulele Kids Club, they provide ukuleles to children in hospital music therapy programs. www.theukc.org
• Member The CC Strummers: YouTube: www.youtube.com/user/CCStrummers/video, Facebook: www.facebook.com/TheCCStrummers
 
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I’m also finding spruce is one of my favorite soundboards. Would you say any of these combinations stood out as better than the others? Or do you have an order you would rank them in?

Number 1 for me is spruce and rosewood, it’s an LfdM, but I’ve played many other makes and liked them as well. Number 2 is spruce and myrtle, it’s a Koolau so both these instruments are made by good builders. Back woods make a difference, they color the sound and the player notices. I have played 4 LfdM tenors back to back, all spruce tops with different back woods and they were all slightly different. I guess for me day in day out I like rosewood with spruce. Oh yea koa is right up there too. It’s all personal preference anyways.

I have a Webber tenor that is spruce and cocobolo and it is bright and loud, it don’t care for bright. I have played some LfdMs with that combo and they were bright as well. But my Mya Moe baritone is spruce and cocobolo and it is warm, warmer than an all mahogany and an all koa baritone. Go figure
 
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Thank you for all of this awesome input, everyone! I am thrilled to see that the thread is generating lots of great information and people sharing their perspectives — this is so helpful to me — I hope others find it helpful as well!

DownUpDave ~ Thank you, again, for your supportive and encouraging feedback - it has taken me a long time to ‘find my voice’ and I am still working on it. My journey of playing and singing the past 10 years has been amazing — part of the reason why it has been so amazing is because of fantastic people here on the UU being so generous in sharing knowledge and in providing support!

Thanks so much, again, everyone! :)
 
I haven't played on a fancy uke, but my first real uke was a spruce topped Makai that I got off craigslist. It had some problems but it sounded pretty decent. Later I got a nicer Ohana with a cedar top. Both ukes had laminate back and sides - the Makai is some mystery wood and the Ohana is laminated mahogony. I really like the richer sound of the Ohana (probably better than the Makai) but that Makai really sounded way better and louder than it had any right to - I can only guess it was the spruce. My uke coming in September will be a maple/spruce, all solid. The Makai is out of commission, unfortunately, so I'll only be able to compare the cedar Ohana to the new one.
 
Do you find this chart to be generally accurate?
 

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Do you find this chart to be generally accurate?

Well the chart brings up problems for me that I once was thinking of starting a new thread to talk about.

The "midrange" word is where the problems start:
1. Midrange in the past meant from about middle C up about four octaves. If Kala means that, then the entire reentrant C6 uke is midrange and Kala's comments are difficult to understand.
2. Today the first octave up from middle C is sometimes called lower-midrange and midrange starts above that for a couple octaves before reaching upper-midrange. If Kala means that, then their comments are only for the 1st string.
3. Finally if midrange is meant to mean the middle two strings, they should mention that.

In terms of hardness, density, and sound radiation, koa and mahogany are almost the same, but as noted in the chart can sound different. Yet even Corey and Tobias, who play all kinds of ukes made from different woods, in an HMS podcast couldn't guess 100% what woods they were playing with their eyes closed.
 
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