Kanilea pins

R

RLM3121

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2012
Messages
80
Reaction score
0
I have a kanile'a tenor ukulele which I think is great. I have always wondered why they use bridge pins. What do they add to the ukulele? I think Kanile'a is the only one I have seen use them. Do you like them?
Just wondering what everyone thought.
 
I have a Kanilea Tenor as well. The bridge pins can be a bit of a pain the first time you change strings. I had an old string that got stuck and I tried everything and couldn't get it out. Had to bring it to a local guitar shop and they had a tool made for that problem. Other than that no real problem. Why bridge pins? I don't know. I came to the ukulele from trumpet and had no real background with guitar.
 
I'm no expert, but I think bridge pins make a lot of sense. One of the most common problems with older ukuleles is the glued-on bridge breaking off when the glue weakens with age (or due to heat or humidity). This is much less likely to happen with bridge pins since the strings are attached directly to the sound board instead of applying tension to the glued-on bridge. "String through" bridges have the same advantage, but changing strings with the bridge pins is much faster and easier. Any guitar store can sell you a bridge pin tool for about $1 that makes pulling the bridge pins very easy.
 
Bridge pin, or thru the bridge has always been preferred by me. As was mentioned, bridge pins are 'nearly' traditional for acoustic guitars. When properly used I think they are superior at holding and in ease of installation. Again with my "opinion"... :) both of those methods have the string tension pulling from under the bridge and I think it puts less stress on the bridge (when compared to tied or slot knotted.

My first Kanile'a had two very loose pins (would literally fall out if I tipped they uke), and upon notifying Kanile'a, they immediately sent replacements, along with some hints for making sure they were installed correctly. [Groove in the string side, light finger tip pressure to 'seat' them.] The pins do NOT hold the string by wedging it between the pin and the hole. The knot should be beyond through the hole, resting on the underside of the soundboard. FWIW, I use 3mm stainless beads knotted on the ends and have had no issues keeping tied, nor getting them out. And lastly, I like the way they look... tidy, clean, with no string ends sticking out, poking or scratching the surface! (Opinions expressed here are that of the author)
 
Funny coming from guitar, I specifically didn’t get a bridge pin ukulele when I started, just to try something different. They are the standard for acoustic guitar. Now, I have all types. String thru with tie blocks is my favourite but I like them all......tie, slotted, bridge pins. String thru and bridge pins do make a lot of sense. Slotted are super easy and tension on ukuleles in a lot less than steel strings.

For my acoustic , I have brass bridge pin, that are super easy to install strings with. They work like a champ.

Still waiting to pick up my first Kanile’a and keep eyeing that newer model they have with Koa top and mahogany back and sides. Mi really like the natural looking finish and prefer ukuleles without a gloss finish. HMS has had some really nice Kanile’a ukulele as of late.
 
Ukecaster said:
Well, if you come from the acoustic steel string guitar world, bridge pins are very familiar. I certainly felt that way when I converted to uke from guitar. Getting the hang of knots on a tie bar bridge took a wh6ile. Now either one of those methods, or a slot bridge, or string thru with knots or beads, it all seems normal. I'd love to own a Kanilea one day.
Click to expand...

Luckily, I have a Kanilea,Kamaka and KoAloha Tenor. We have no kids and didn't have to deal with college tuitions etc. We were able to pay off our mortgage a couple of months after I retired. We're not rich by any means but managed our money well and are in excellent health. I count my blessings every day.
 
What may be of interest to many people here is Shawn's work at Ukulele Friend in the Museum. Many of the earliest ukuleles had bridge pins (some have slotted bridges, although in most of the pictures, these are replacements). So it is funny that we think of pin bridges on ukuleles as an exception to the norm, when they've been there all along, and the tie bar bridge is the exception!

The other thing, if everyone didn't know, is that Kanile'a switched to other pins recently that do not have the "groove." This eliminates having to install the groove away from the string (which is always confusing to guitar players). I think they'll sell you a set of the new pins if you contact them, and I hear their customer service is outstanding.
 
I have a Kanilea GL6 with pins and, yeah, not a fan of the pins (love that wee instrument tho'). I suppose it's partly because I mainly played classical and electric guitars all my life so through-bridge and tie-down were what I was used to. Albeit I must say Kanilea's pins and corresponding holes are smooth and precise, so they rarely cut or fray strings, unlike my Cordoba (a real dad burn string cutter). Pins are more bother for me and unattractive. Ultimately it's about the sound and I'm willing to grin 'n bare it if the instrument is really good. The Renaissance guitar (tuned G C E A like an 'ukulele)—the oldest 'ukulele like instrument on record—had a tie down bridge. I don't think pins were common until the 19th century.
 
I'm okay with pins, or tying them, wrapping them, slots or knots, it makes no difference to me.
 
Kanile'a pins are plastic. I do not understand why they would put these on a premium quality instrument. I changed out the pins on my GL-6 to bone after the one of the original pins snapped in two and the pieces flew across the room.
 
Last edited:
I like bridge pins, so easy to change strings. Cleaner look, no stress on bridge, a small bead on the end helps a lot. Tie bridges are my least favorite, hardest to get a clean look.
 
I prefer pins on guitars (as well as sealed geared tuners), and anything but pins on ukuleles (and back of the head tuners). Just for aesthetic reasons; it's not something I try to recommend to others. So far the only advantage for me is that it (usually) keeps Kanile'a off of my UAS radar.
 
warndt said:
Kanile'a pins are plastic. I do not understand why they would cheaply do this on a premium quality instrument. I changed out the pins on my GL-6 to bone after the one of the original pins snapped in two and the pieces flew across the room.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I wonder if they went back and forth this? My 2019 GL6 came with ebony bridge pins. It's a so-called "premium premium" model so maybe they use different pins on the various trim levels.
 
gochugogi said:
Hmm, I wonder if they went back and forth this? My 2019 GL6 came with ebony bridge pins. It's a so-called "premium premium" model so maybe they use different pins on the various trim levels.
Click to expand...

No matter...If you are spending $1500+ for an instrument, utilizing plastic bridge pins is going cheap. I let Kanile'a know about the flying pin and they sent me a baggy of more plastic pins. Other than that...I love the instrument and their product. You are right though, mine is an older 2011 version of the K-1 GL-6, so they may have since changed their pins to a different type of material.
 
Last edited:
warndt said:
Kanile'a pins are plastic. I do not understand why they would cheaply do this on a premium quality instrument. I changed out the pins on my GL-6 to bone after the one of the original pins snapped in two and the pieces flew across the room.
Click to expand...

Upgrading them to ebony pins with MOP dots is a very worthwhile upgrade for just ~$20. I think they fit a bit worse than the plastic pins, but they look oh so much better. I suspect the plastic is more stable than the ebony pins, but since the ebony pins come in a set of 6 (for guitar), it's an easy upgrade to pick the best-fitting 4 of the lot.
 
Kanile'a have an excellent video on changing the strings on their bridge pin ukes. In fact they are a sort of hybrid of a slot and pin. There is a small slot that the pin pushes the string into. And holds the string in place. When you remove the string, you use the pin to push the string out of the slot so you can pull the end up and out of the hole.

My Living Waters A-string would pull out on my used K-1T no matter how big I tied the knot. The slot had worn a little and opened up a bit. So, I used a metal bead ($1.25 for 50 at Walmart) on the end and never had a pull out after that.

I believe Kanile'a have ebony pins on their higher level models and the black plastic on their base models.

I asked them about the use of plastic tuner knobs on their tenors and the reply was that the plastic knobs don't break like wooden ones tend to do with heavy use. They found out the hard way about wooden knobs break during a performance. (I still think they could at least remove the mold seam.)
 
Last edited:
Kenn2018 said:
Kanile'a have an excellent video on changing the strings on their bridge pin ukes. In fact they are a sort of hybrid of a slot and pin. There is a small slot that the pin pushes the string into. And holds the string in place. When you remove the string, you use the pin to push the string out of the slot so you can pull the end up and out of the hole.

My Living Waters A-string would pull out on my used K-1T no matter how big I tied the knot. The slot had worn a little and opened up a bit. So, I used a metal bead ($1.25 for 50 at Walmart) on the end and never had a pull out after that.

I believe Kanile'a have ebony pins on their higher level models and the black plastic on their base models.

I asked them about the use of plastic tuner knobs on their tenors and the reply was that the plastic knobs don't break like wooden ones tend to do with heavy use. They found out the hard way about wooden knobs break during a performance. (I still think they could at least remove the mold seam.)
Click to expand...

I used to own a set of heads with actual mother pearl tuning buttons. One little bump on a mic stand and a knob split in two and disappeared into the mists. My wood knobs were a lot more durable but they tend to wear on the staff and develop play/looseness until they just spin. But, yeah, quality plastic buttons seem to last forever.
 
Kenn2018 said:
My Living Waters A-string would pull out on my used K-1T no matter how big I tied the knot. The slot had worn a little and opened up a bit. So, I used a metal bead ($1.25 for 50 at Walmart) on the end and never had a pull out after that.

I believe Kanile'a have ebony pins on their higher level models and the black plastic on their base models.

I asked them about the use of plastic tuner knobs on their tenors and the reply was that the plastic knobs don't break like wooden ones tend to do with heavy use. They found out the hard way about wooden knobs break during a performance. (I still think they could at least remove the mold seam.)
Click to expand...
I have the same problem. Can you tell what kind of beads you use? Or maybe send me an example link per pm?
 
Joralin said:
I have the same problem. Can you tell what kind of beads you use? Or maybe send me an example link per pm?
Click to expand...
Hi Joralin. I use round metal beads I found in the sewing area at Walmart. Also called "spacer" beads. They are small enough to fit through the hole for the pins. But larger beads could be used if you fish the strings out through the sound hole and tie the bead on. I'm afraid I don't remember what size the are. They look to be 4mm dia. sitting on a ruler. (Measuring with the hole sides facing the ruler.) I think a pack of 50 cost $1.75 USD about 4 years ago.

I also got a pack of 5mm(?) beads with ridges (fluted) sides. They were a very snug fit to go through the Kanile'a holes.

I had some plastic beads. But they broke when I tuned up my uke and strummed it fairly hard a few days later. With a pretty loud pop! For a moment, I was afraid I had broken something inside the uke.

Romero strings come with plastic square beads with G, C, E. A on the sides. Nice looking, but they break very easily. Tried them twice and each time at least one string broke a bead under tension. And they were fluorocarbon strings. I'd be leery of glass, wood or seed beads.

Make sure the bead has a large enough diameter hole that your thickest string will go through. I think most have a 1mm hole.

Any sewing store or art & craft store should sell similar metal beads. Mine are similar to these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/DIY-Craf...ead-Silver-Tone-100Pcs/857567220?from=/search
I'm sure Amazon will have them. I notice that they also have stainless steel beads. Not a bad idea if you use an Oasis type humidifier. I would prevent any oxidation or the metal. But that's really over-thinking this.
 
Kenn2018 said:
Hi Joralin. I use round metal beads I found in the sewing area at Walmart. Also called "spacer" beads. They are small enough to fit through the hole for the pins. But larger beads could be used if you fish the strings out through the sound hole and tie the bead on. I'm afraid I don't remember what size the are. They look to be 4mm dia. sitting on a ruler. (Measuring with the hole sides facing the ruler.) I think a pack of 50 cost $1.75 USD about 4 years ago.

I also got a pack of 5mm(?) beads with ridges (fluted) sides. They were a very snug fit to go through the Kanile'a holes.

I had some plastic beads. But they broke when I tuned up my uke and strummed it fairly hard a few days later. With a pretty loud pop! For a moment, I was afraid I had broken something inside the uke.

Romero strings come with plastic square beads with G, C, E. A on the sides. Nice looking, but they break very easily. Tried them twice and each time at least one string broke a bead under tension. And they were fluorocarbon strings. I'd be leery of glass, wood or seed beads.

Make sure the bead has a large enough diameter hole that your thickest string will go through. I think most have a 1mm hole.

Any sewing store or art & craft store should sell similar metal beads. Mine are similar to these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/DIY-Craf...ead-Silver-Tone-100Pcs/857567220?from=/search
I'm sure Amazon will have them. I notice that they also have stainless steel beads. Not a bad idea if you use an Oasis type humidifier. I would prevent any oxidation or the metal. But that's really over-thinking this.
Click to expand...
Thank you for your tips.

I havent tought about the possibillity to install the beads from the other side. That means i can give my rosewood string tie beads a try, or buy some that are too large to go trough the hole ^^
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

OhioBelle
New Pins on the Kanilea
Replies
11
Views
1K
hollisdwyer
hollisdwyer
LutzSpearo
Kanilea owners - which bridge pins do you like best?
2
Replies
23
Views
3K
LutzSpearo
LutzSpearo
lochman
bridge pins for kanilea k1 soprano uke
Replies
9
Views
2K
Plainsong
Plainsong
Kauai808
Kanilea with ebay bridge pins
Replies
9
Views
4K
GX9901
GX9901
M
Sold Kanilea 25th Anniversary DK-T Premium Tenor
Replies
9
Views
699
mshep
M
Top Bottom