Starting out: documentation thread

Going off topic here for this thread... Perhaps you could start a new thread because this is a good question that has solutions.
 
I have a question about glue and gluing. When I glue wood together with Titebond or something similar, I always get a certain amount of squeeze-out. From what I understand, that's the way to do it - equal squeeze-out all along the joint. That creates a problem with staining, though. If I wipe away the excess glue, the section of wood that's been wiped will look different after it it stained.

The solution?

I applied blue tape to the adjacent surfaces, and no squeeze-out got onto the wood.

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Don't wipe excess glue - wiping tends to make big smears and pushes glue into pores - let it harden as blobs, which are easily popped off (or sanded/scraped off) once the part is out of clamps. And plan on finish sanding after glueup to remove the tiny amount of contamination the blobs may leave. Bonus points, use a glue with a UV dye (such as LMI's instrument glue) which lets you quickly check if there's any contamination by shining a black light on the part.
 
Don't wipe excess glue - wiping tends to make big smears and pushes glue into pores - let it harden as blobs, which are easily popped off (or sanded/scraped off) once the part is out of clamps. And plan on finish sanding after glueup to remove the tiny amount of contamination the blobs may leave. Bonus points, use a glue with a UV dye (such as LMI's instrument glue) which lets you quickly check if there's any contamination by shining a black light on the part.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind.
 
https://imgur.com/a/wpxGwha

Deep reach thickness calipers, 8 1/2" depth.
$25 digital indicator from Amazon, some scrap acrylic, acorn nut + misc. fasteners.

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Thanks. There are a number of shop made versions on YouTube and the web.
When you consider that the cost of a commercially made one can be $200 or more, it is very satisfying to have made it myself for under $30.
 
I received the silicone heating blanket and controller in the last week.
The blanket came from member Bob Gleason, Pegasus Guitars and Ukuleles; and I ordered the controller through Walmart when two of my local Harbor Freight stores were out of stock and not expected to reorder.
I'm looking forward to giving these a test run on my side bending form, hopefully this week.

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I did a fretboard test today to check spacing. 20" scale.
I used a 60˚ V-bit milling 1/64" deep on the line.
Material is cherry, 7/32" thick, 13/64" dot markers.
I compared to my Lanikai MA-B, and found that it is has a scale length of about 20 3/16".

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I have a .023 router bit on order that I can use to cut the actual slots.
I'd like to work out an indexing jig for hand sawing the slots, should I be without CNC access at some point.
 
First attempt at side bending.

First off, I tried using an oven thermometer, but was skeptical that I was getting accurate readings, so I kind of winged it.
I'm not sure where the sensor is in one of these.
The first side had quite a bit of springback because I was worried about leaving it in too long or it getting too hot.
The second side went much better and I had almost no springback.

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I worked out the taper before bending.
Trimming the length of the sides could have gone better. They were oversized to begin with and I marked each side in the mould. Unfortunately, I have about a 1/16" gap on the tail end, and maybe a 32nd on the neck end. Looks like I'll be incorporating an end graft.

Overall I have to say it went pretty smoothly for the first time.

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I hope to work on kerfed linings tomorrow.
 
No worries obviously on the neck end gap as long as you bring the neck volute all the way down to the back covering up the gap. As for the tail end gap, end grafts are the way to go anyway and pretty easy to do using a wedge shape.
 
Speaking of documentation, I've found it very useful to document how certain things are done, whether it's computer software or how to work something mechanical.
 
Latest progress:
I received the gramil blade from LMI, so was able to complete making the tool as originally described in post #19 of this thread. I followed instructions in the video. Had to approximate dimensions.

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I also started gluing in the linings. Pictured is the back of the instrument. Material is Spanish cedar. I'm still experimenting with spacing and depth of cut for maximum flexibility without it breaking. I used a cheap circular saw blade with a kerf of about 1/16" on the table saw incorporating a sled with an indexing pin.

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Because of work and other personal issues that complicate life, I haven't had much time to devote to the project lately.

Pictured is my first use of the go bar deck. I made the go bars from QSWO, dimensions: 5/32" x 9/16" x 25 1/4".

I made the decision to construct a couple of bodies from less precious (cheaper) wood to fully understand the process before committing to more expensive materials. I will use these to test the neck joint routing jig (yet to be built) and perhaps practice the binding and purfling process.

The back is book matched poplar, the cross grain graft is Spanish cedar, and the braces are some fairly tight grained construction pine.

I have a couple of other non-instrument related projects I have to build over the next couple of months, but I hope to get back to this on a more regular basis.

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Well if you ever get around to actually building an instrument I'm sure it will be a stunner because that isn't just a go-bar deck, that thing is a work of art. (Not to be snarky or anything, but I just use clamps and cauls. Works good.)
 
There are so many incredible jigs, fixtures, and developments on this thread. Compliments to all of you, since there’s too many to individually address. I’ve been a dormant wannabe luthier for too long.

I have recently started visiting this thread again, and I’m hankering to get a project going to put some of these super ideas into use.
 
Back and soundboard plate joining jig.
3/4" Baltic birch plywood, 1/4" nylon cord.


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