Thickness planer

 
I know a cople luthiers here use Grizzly. They also sell Dewalt products I think. It may be because the headquarters is out of their hometownof Bellingham, Wa., but they seem to like them.
 
I have the dewalt in the last image. It's a very nice tool. Not really of use in instrument building in my opinion. I used mine for location work for finishing high end homes.
 
Not really of use in instrument building in my opinion.

Agreed. I had a planer with a spiral head. It tended to tear wood with any sort of figure and it was difficult to make thin plates even with a sled. Sure, there are times when it's necessary to make a board flat but this can be done with a jointer, which can also do other useful things.
 
I've been glancing at this thread wondering how a thickness planer fits into a luthier's shop. If I want something significantly thinner I resaw it. If I want it only a little thinner, I put it through the drum sander (which tends to handle figured or very thin wood much better than a planer). And I also have a router planing fixture for times when neither of those methods work. I've never even thought about needing a thickness planer. What are you all using planers for?
 
I've been glancing at this thread wondering how a thickness planer fits into a luthier's shop. If I want something significantly thinner I resaw it. If I want it only a little thinner, I put it through the drum sander (which tends to handle figured or very thin wood much better than a planer). And I also have a router planing fixture for times when neither of those methods work. I've never even thought about needing a thickness planer. What are you all using planers for?
If you want to hog wood off on a thickness drum sander eg: Jet 10-20...Just fit it with the 36G sanding belt and turn the dust extractor full on :) 6mm a pass no problem.
 
I had the best DeWalt one but didn't use it in 5 years, so sold it.
I prefer to use my #7 plane.

I'd not recommend using a planer for backs, sides, tops etc
 
I have a Dewalt planer that I use frequently. Just yesterday I used it to thickness a couple dozen 3/8” rough ebony finger boards. While I had it out I ran several mahogany boards to 1/4” in preparation for making kerfings. It’s much faster and cleaner than using 36 grit in the drum sander. I certainly don’t use it for koa though because of the problem with tear outs, only for clear wood.
 
A friend gave me an old Shopsmith which included a thickness planer attachment. Believe it or not, it is incredibly accurate and easy to use and adjust. It may be the best feature of the entire Shopsmith!
 
I have the DW735, and use it to flatten boards that may have a slight cup or twist, also *sometimes* for thinning fretboard stock, but tearout is certainly an issue of concern. I've had some nasty tearout on both Rosewood and Osage Orange. I built a uke out of scrapwood, and the sides were Ash from an old pallet. I milled them all the way down to <1/8" using the planer and a sled. Would never try that with "good" instrument wood.
 
Small tools for the small workshop - Proxxon. Very expensive but reliable, quiet (home workshop) and very accurate. Soon to replace one I had for 10 years and wore out.
 
If you want to hog wood off on a thickness drum sander eg: Jet 10-20...Just fit it with the 36G sanding belt and turn the dust extractor full on :) 6mm a pass no problem.
I have an old Makita planer...thickness adjustments are hit and miss...I need a drum sander I can dial in...looking at (saving up for ) the super max 19-38...any users out there?

 
I have an old Makita planer...thickness adjustments are hit and miss...I need a drum sander I can dial in...looking at (saving up for ) the super max 19-38...any users out there?

I have the Super Max 19-38 and I can't recommend it enough. It has become one of the most used tools in my shop besides my band saw. I was leery of the cantilevered design, but I've used it for wider table tops, following the instructions, and it's worked great. The drum is mounted very rigidly and the height adjustment is very smooth. I have taken hardwood (maple, walnut) down to veneer thickness (0.8 mm in the photo). With a proper dust collection system connected, there is no dust in the air. walnut_veneer.jpg
 
hi! rehashing this old thread. seems like planers aren’t recommended but i was wondering what would be in this situation.

I do have the Jet 10-20 drum sander and it works fine taking wood down for top/back/sides. however i sometimes get luthier wood that is pretty thick (example .24”) and that just takes sooo long on the drum sander to get it down to .08-.09. i came here hoping a small planer would help get the .24” down to .1”-ish.

anyway what do you all recommend for a small garage workshop to help with this. or just stick with the drum sander and burn through sand paper?
 
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hi! rehashing this old thread. seems like planers aren’t recommended but i was wondering what would be in this situation.

I do have the Jet 10-20 drum sander and it works fine taking wood down for top/back/sides. however i sometimes get luthier wood that is pretty thick (example .24”) and that just takes sooo long on the drum sander to get it down to .08-.09. i came here hoping a small planer would help get the .24” down to .1”-ish.

anyway what do you all recommend for a small garage workshop to help with this. or just stick with the drum sander and burn through sand paper?
I’d resaw it thinner, either from the start, or if you’re bringing it in already milled, I’d still pass it through my bandsaw - 1/4” is thick enough to cut a 1/16” veneer (if you needed it), and end up with a 1/8” starting point to joint plates.
 
I’d resaw it thinner, either from the start, or if you’re bringing it in already milled, I’d still pass it through my bandsaw - 1/4” is thick enough to cut a 1/16” veneer (if you needed it), and end up with a 1/8” starting point to joint plates.
thanks. right now i have the worlds smallest grizzly bandsaw, maybe it’s time to upgrade that.

so you’re saying on your bandsaw you’re able to resaw a 1/4” thick plate accurately enough to then pass it through the drum sander after.
 
thanks. right now i have the worlds smallest grizzly bandsaw, maybe it’s time to upgrade that.

so you’re saying on your bandsaw you’re able to resaw a 1/4” thick plate accurately enough to then pass it through the drum sander after.

Just putting in my $0.02. Last year I upgraded from a 10" 1960s Delta Homecraft band saw to a 14" Grizzly G0555LX with the 6" riser block (that's the one with 1 hp and cast iron wheels), and lets just say that it was a quasi-religious experience. ;)

I've just done experimental resawing with it, and it will need a little fine tuning to get to perfect 1/8" cuts for soundboards or whatever, but I have no doubt that it will be just fine for that. It's been excellent for the general woodworking stuff I've used it for so far.
 
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