Banjolele skin tension?

Poul Hansen

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I just bought a nice and very well made little Harley Benton banjolele, for my Georg Formby songs.

The inhouse Harley Benton brand has improved considerable over the years while staying reasonably priced.

Is there any "norm" for skintension or a "thumbs rule" for adjusting it?

I just wonder, as the strings were very slack when I got it, so maybe the skin is slack as well. It has a slight curve, but that brought the action down where I want it.

https://www.thomann.de/dk/harley_benton_bju_15pro_banjo_ukulele.htm

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Hmmm, not many banjolele players here.
I didn't find much myself either, so I grabbed the bull by the horns and brought out my carbon bicycle torque wrench.

The skin(why call it a "head"?)was very loose, I turned the adjusters 5-6 revolutions, to just have it register at 1Nm. I then brought it up to 1,5
 
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I believe the head should be tuned like a drum to G#.
 
There will always be a slight curve in the skin of a banjo/banjolele head. Just how much is the question, which I can't give you a definitive answer on, but it will never be flat.
 
There will always be a slight curve in the skin of a banjo/banjolele head. Just how much is the question, which I can't give you a definitive answer on, but it will never be flat.

Of course . The banjo people talk about depression the thickness of a dime, so a banjolele must be
 
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There will always be a slight curve in the skin of a banjo/banjolele head. Just how much is the question, which I can't give you a definitive answer on, but it will never be flat.

I think "never" is the right word. Just like a rope pulled between to points, it can never be perfectly straight. Of course, a banjo head had the pressure of the bridge pushing down on it.

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/30343/why-cant-a-rope-be-pulled-completely-straight
 
If it sounds and plays like you want, it must be good! :shaka:
 
The banjo people talk about depression the thickness of a dime, so a banjolele must be
 
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I once asked this question, and I was told to keep tightening it - progressively - until just before it rips.

I hope this helps.

John Colter
 
I once asked this question, and I was told to keep tightening it - progressively - until just before it rips.

I hope this helps.

John Colter

Haha, so you order an extra skin, adjust till it breaks, installs the new one and then back it 1/2 turn :)
 
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Haha, so you order an extra skin, adjust till it breaks, installs the new one and then back it 1/2 turn :)

No, that wouldn't work. The skin that ripped had been stretched over time, so you would have to tighten the new one until it rips. Then you'll know how much to tighten a new one. ;)
 
One thing I can't seem to get squared away is whether you're tuning the head to G# do you tune it with the strings in tension or do you slacken the strings, remove the bridge and tune the head separately?
 
One thing I can't seem to get squared away is whether you're tuning the head to G# do you tune it with the strings in tension or do you slacken the strings, remove the bridge and tune the head separately?

I believe you remove the bridge and tap the the head as though it is a drum while adjusting the bolts until you get to G#. Like tuning a snare drum for example.
 
I don't think any manufacturer uses that G# rule, and especially with the smaller surface area and variable skin thickness (or materials used). There's a G#3 at 208 Hz (a bit too low) and another G#4 at 415Hz (which is a bit high), and I've seen banjo ukes tuned to anything in between, say around middle C.

My rule of thumb is that the bridge, with tuned up strings, should make a small indentation on the vellum, but nothing spectacular. And to trust your ears. If you have to slack the vellum because the action gets too high, you should adjust the neck angle first.
 
Flick your fingernail against the vellum. This sounds ridiculous, but it should sound like "tap tap tap" rather than "tup tup tup".
 
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