Banjolele skin tension?

Flick your fingernail against the vellum. This sounds ridiculous, but it should sound like "tap tap tap" rather than "tup tup tup".

As an owner of a quintet of drums on sticks of various sizes this sounds spot on and the best advice so far. It's a "feel" thing I believe. You know when they are too slack ,they sound dull and lifeless.
 
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I surrender! I have read and watched a ton of stuff about tuning the banjo/banjolele head. The thing that made the most sense is to use a drum head tension gage.

So, I bit the bullet and bought a DrumDial with a digital readout. It includes a case and a piece of glass upon which to calibrate it. I bought the digital one since I won't be using it live on stage. So brightness of the readout won't be an issue.

I figure for my Southern Cross Tenor and my Deering Tenor I need something a little more precise than a tap tone.

I'll do a review after I use it a few times.
 
How did that go, Kenn?

I bought an analog Drum Dial a few years ago for use with a full-size banjo, because I couldn't figure out how to tune a drum to G#! My ears can't do that. I went with the mechanical model because I figured it might last longer and won't require batteries, and it's a tool I only use very sporadically. I actually meant to check the tension of my Deering banjolele and see if I can improve the tone a bit (also experiment with strings). For the banjos, I go for 90-91 on the Drum Dial, which I understand is around G#.

I'd really like to love the Deering banjolele, but I never really connected with it. It just sounds very plunky/tubby. Some folks like that, though, but I hope brighter strings may do the trick, and perhaps the head needs tightening too. That'll by my weekend project, I think. I speculate I may like one of those cheaper banjoleles better (the one by the Magic Fluke company always seemed nice in videos), but between ukes and full-size banjos, UAS hasn't flared up irresistibly, yet!
 
I asked Remo about how much to tension their skins in Nm and this is what I got:

I checked with R&D and we actually do not have this info available.
I'd say it's player preference as I haven't heard any issues getting the head tensioned and sounding good to the player.
 
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;) The "it's player preference" is awfully common in the banjo world! A lot seems to be done by "feel" and by "ear". I bought the Drum Dial because all the information I could find was either "tune it by ear", "press the thumb on the head and do it by feel", or using an American coin with an American ruler -- none of which worked for me! The Drum Dial at least gave me a simple numeric value and I could work with that, even though it's a mystery value to me, too. But I know 90-91 "sounds good".
 
I checked and the dials measure distance, in either 1/1000th of an inch or mm.

They have a spring loaded pin, that depresses the skin and the dial shows the depression, so it can't be converted to any other unit.

I have torqued my banjolele tensioners to 1,5 Nm. It improved the sound a lot. It looks like the skin isn't torqued/tuned from the factory.
 
Congrats. That looks like a very nice instrument. Perhaps someday you'll post a recording of yourself playing it?
 
Congrats. That looks like a very nice instrument. Perhaps someday you'll post a recording of yourself playing it?

I have just started playing it and am not into all this selfpromotion on the internet, so it'll be a while, if ever ;)
 
Done with taxes, so I finally had the time to try my DrumDial on my tenor Southern Cross Banjo Uke with an 8" dia pot.

It's a bit difficult to do because of the strings and the armrest that take up a lot of territory on the top. I removed the bridge. The metal feeler that was included with the gauge was just a hair more than the armrest covered, so I used it to give me a consistent distance from the rim as I took reading around the head.

There was no consistency in the readings, which was to be expected. I had tried to tighten the head by feel and the amount the bridge was pushing into the surface. The readings were 78 to 84. So I went crosswise around the rim and tightened everything to 85. That seemed too slack. So did another round to 87, then 89, settling with 90. Very tight. Which gave it a much louder and more jangly sound. Still get a little buzz from time to time, but it sounds much better.

I confess, I'm chicken and didn't want to go any tighter.

Anyone know how to deal with the tailpiece?
 
I checked and the dials measure distance, in either 1/1000th of an inch or mm.

They have a spring loaded pin, that depresses the skin and the dial shows the depression, so it can't be converted to any other unit.

I have torqued my banjolele tensioners to 1,5 Nm. It improved the sound a lot. It looks like the skin isn't torqued/tuned from the factory.

Poul I'm kinda dense. How does the 1.5 Nm (Newtonmeter) of torque translate to tightening the head? Is that the resistance you set on each tension hook nut? I've used a lot of torque wrenches, but never had one that sensitive. :)

Thanks for the info on the dial measure distance.
 
Poul I'm kinda dense. How does the 1.5 Nm (Newtonmeter) of torque translate to tightening the head? Is that the resistance you set on each tension hook nut? I've used a lot of torque wrenches, but never had one that sensitive. :)

Thanks for the info on the dial measure distance.

I have a few wrenches meant for carbon bicycles and the fixed ones start a 4Nm but I have some variable ones which can show 1.5Nm but it's of course with quite a big margin. Yes I tightened each of the hook nuts the same and also coming from racing motorbikes I of course did it in a cross pattern ;)

Here's a wrench:

https://www.ridinggravel.com/reviews-2/topeak-torque-wrenches-quick-review/
 
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