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Thread: Titebond original or Hide Glue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default Titebond original or Hide Glue

    I have a Sears Supertone from the 1920s that I need to reglue the bridge onto. I am going to make some height adjustments but when I go to glue it back on should I use the original or Hide Glue Titebond? From what I have read on here the normal Hide Glue that you have to heat up would be the best option but I am not planning to do that. I read mixed reviews on the Titebond Hide Glue so I wasn

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    364

    Default

    Don't use the pre-mixed liquid hide glue. It's not really a high performer.

    Titebond Original is fine (do not fall victim to the claims that II or III are better - they're just different, and not really better for an instrument).

    Focus on getting the old glue scraped off and creating a clean true surface. Do a dry run of your clamping plans and make sure you have everything lined up and ready to go before you put glue on anything. Make sure you have a plan for keeping the bridge correctly positioned, it's easy for a bridge to squirm and move under clamp pressure.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Blaine, Washington
    Posts
    2,461

    Default

    I think Brian Griffin of Griffin Ukuleles uses the blue paper tape around the bridge to stop it from squirming around under clamp pressure.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Thanks! I was planning to use some tape around the three sides like I saw on frets.com. That will definitely help.

    I will probably do a few dry runs as I need to lower the strings quite a bit. I am thinking I will lower the slot on the nut side to about .050 and then see how much I have to sand the bridge down to get the 2.5-3 mm gap on the 12 th fret.

    As this is my first instrument and repair this site has been great!

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