Bill Sheehan
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Hahahaha! Sounds like a good start, Ripock!
Thanks to all for the fret-cleaning suggestions, and again, sorry to commandeer Ed's original topic!
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Your Favorite Ukulele Cleaning Method
- Thread starter Ed1
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Hahahaha! Sounds like a good start, Ripock!
Thanks to all for the fret-cleaning suggestions, and again, sorry to commandeer Ed's original topic!
Speaking as a builder and repair tech, I don't use lemon oil on my instruments. It can cause issues with repair or refinish work down the road. Surfaces with oil buildup on them won't take new finish as well as clean surfaces - a finished surface that has been wiped down with lemon oil can turn a 5 minute touchup job into a much longer and more risky project. And, bare wood (like an unfinished fretboard or bridge) that has been treated with non-drying oil over time can get so oil soaked that fretwork or repairs involving glue become difficult. Plus, it tends to leave a fine film of oil on surfaces (which is why they look shiny and new) that causes the finish to slowly become even more prone to dust or fingerprints. Yes, it will dissolve crud, and yes it makes the instrument look nice, but there are a lot of downsides that can be ticking time bombs.
Hence, I don't use it. I like to take a "first, do no harm" approach to cleaning. Microfiber cloths, small amounts of hot water, and white scotchbrite pads are all essentially harmless, and they can be plenty effective.
You are right regarding finished wood. The lemon oil should only be used on unfinished fretboards and in small amounts.
There are potential issues on unfinished wood as well - although they're less likely to be issues on ukes, since ukes need serious fretboard work (binding or fret replacement) less often than other instrument types. I've worked on guitar fretboards that were so oil soaked from an owner "sparingly" treating with lemon oil every few months that fret and binding replacement were impossible, and the fretboard itself had to be removed and replaced. That's not a fun conversation.
If you have unfinished wood and you feel you have gunk that's so stubborn it needs a solvent, naptha is a better choice. It's safe for the wood and will cut gunk in no time. If you have unfinished wood and it looks "dry" and you'd prefer it to look shiny and freshly polished, then it really should be finished with a drying oil finish, not treated with a non-drying oil that'll cause problems in the future. A drying oil finish will be permanent, too, you won't have to re-do it every once in a while. The board will look shiny and new all the time! My favorite is stew mac's fretboard finishing oil - that's what I use on all my new instruments with rosewood or ebony fretboards. It can be applied the same way people usually apply lemon oil, it's pretty foolproof. Two or three coats and your ebony or rosewood board will look freshly polished and clean.
If you have unfinished wood and you feel you have gunk that's so stubborn it needs a solvent, naptha is a better choice. It's safe for the wood and will cut gunk in no time. If you have unfinished wood and it looks "dry" and you'd prefer it to look shiny and freshly polished, then it really should be finished with a drying oil finish, not treated with a non-drying oil that'll cause problems in the future. A drying oil finish will be permanent, too, you won't have to re-do it every once in a while. The board will look shiny and new all the time! My favorite is stew mac's fretboard finishing oil - that's what I use on all my new instruments with rosewood or ebony fretboards. It can be applied the same way people usually apply lemon oil, it's pretty foolproof. Two or three coats and your ebony or rosewood board will look freshly polished and clean.
Doc_J
Well-known member
Consider taking off the strings and using a little 0000 steel wool with lemon oil on the frets and fretboard.
I’m always amazed how great an old fretboard will look after a little TLC.
I’m always amazed how great an old fretboard will look after a little TLC.
Bill Sheehan
Well-known member
So, Doc, do I understand correctly that it's okay to use the 0000 steel wool on the fretboard itself, as well as on the frets? It won't hurt anything?
Hardcore Nickie!
I wouldn’t use steel wool on the fretboard wood. You can get some blue painters tape that doesn’t leave adhesive when removed and place it before and after the frets. Then you can use 0000 steel wool to polish along the length of the frets. I fashion the wool to cover pointer finger and then go back and forth as needed. 0000 steel wool will not remove any metal from the frets.
Wash hands often. Try not to drool when hunched over looking for front dots.
100% cotton t-shirt scraps. Painter's tape for masking; also used when filing nut slots and fret ends.
Parker & Bailey Lemon Oil Polish on my cheap (never to be repaired) unfinished (dry as a bone) fretboards.
Gibson World's Finest Pump Polish for guitars, banjos, mandolins. Safe for all finishes (Gibson's statement); use on satin or gloss body, neck, headstock, and even the fretboard.
100% cotton t-shirt scraps. Painter's tape for masking; also used when filing nut slots and fret ends.
Parker & Bailey Lemon Oil Polish on my cheap (never to be repaired) unfinished (dry as a bone) fretboards.
Gibson World's Finest Pump Polish for guitars, banjos, mandolins. Safe for all finishes (Gibson's statement); use on satin or gloss body, neck, headstock, and even the fretboard.
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EDW
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Of course, the spin cycle would be a problem. The dishwasher works better.
Mineral oil with scent. It is furniture cleaner and polish.
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I was advised by a guitar tech to never use steel wool on my ukes. It leaved tiny metal particles behind after use. These particles can be attracted to the magnets in pickups & get into electronics. Plus, they can be attracted to the magnets in mics and speakers. (How many times have you set your uke against a speaker or amp? Or laid your mic in your uke case during setup or teardown?)
They recommended using a plastic fine abrasive cloth/paper instead.
I've heard about that, but I also hear it only applies to electric guitars.
This was done on an acoustic guitar I had around; cased for a long time. When I cleaned house, I decided to sell it. It had some corrosions on the frets. The wool made the frets super shiny and new looking; then I rubbed some lemon oil on the fretboard. Put new strings on it. The result is amazing; like new. I wish I have the before and after photos, it was truly amazing. Basically, the guitar didn't sell for months while I keep lowering its price; so, I decided to do the changes. After, I increased the price and sold it within a week... to a guitar teacher at a local music shop, interesting.)
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I use microfiber cloths, and either some lemon pledge on the cloth, or some Martin Guitar Polish that I just happen to have from years past. If anything is stuck on the finish, a fingernail, such as they are, is the tool of choice.
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