Tell Me About Pickups

Jerryc41

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Here's what I know about pickups: some have batteries, and some don't; some have controls on the uke, and some don't. The ones I have do not have batteries or controls - simple. Just the way I like it.

I am thinking about adding a pickup - no batteries or controls - to a uke I made. I see a huge spread in prices. They range from $8.00 to $250.00 for what looks like the same thing - a thin disk, wire, and a jack.

I have a solid-bodied Fluke with a Misi Air, but that lists for $250. It has a battery, but it's rechargeable. As much as I like that, there's no way I'm going to put that into a homemade.

So, any suggestions for a simple pickup?
 
Google(because broken UU also never allows links as it marks as spam) UK1 detachable piezo ukulele pickup. It’s on Sweetwater.

or UK2 for $30 more if you absolutely need a volume wheel.

Slips right under the strings near the bridge part, good reviews - cheers
 
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Google(because broken UU also never allows links as it marks as spam) UK1 detachable piezo ukulele pickup. It’s on Sweetwater.

or UK2 for $30 more if you absolutely need a volume wheel.

Slips right under the strings near the bridge part, good reviews - cheers

Thanks. The trick with links is to do the post and then Edit and add the link.
 
I have a Godin Multi Uke. But I have the banjo version of that KNA pickup that King David mentioned above, and it works quite well on my banjo.
 
Note up front: I am not an expert on this subject, as I am not much of a fan of pickups on ukes in general. I prefer the more natural sound of a good microphone placed near the instrument instead. But I do understand that there is a time and a place for pickups and they can be quite convenient in some situations. But I am also a physicist who is fascinated by sound (and the reproduction thereof) so I did some digging in the past, so I will pass along my two cents. But since I am not actually a sound engineer nor a professional performer, that is probably what this is all worth, about two cents... :)

Broadly speaking, you have two classes of pickups: active and passive. They both work using similar technology, but with some extra wrinkles. Let's start with passive and build from there.

A passive pickup doesn't have a battery onboard and usually (maybe never? I don't know of any off the top of my head) have any extra knobs, wheels, or controls. It has a disk (or multiple disks) that attach inside the instrument, underneath the saddle. These disks are piezoelectric. They contain a crystal that puts out a very low voltage change when they are compressed by vibrations. This very small voltage change is what goes out to the jack and ultimately to your amplifier. And that last word is kind of key: a passive pickup assumes you are going to run the signal to an amplifier in order to amplify the signal enough to get a good volume. This could be as simple as a decent guitar amp. To get the best sound possible, some folks will run the passive into a pre-amp first, where they will adjust the tone (think of this as a crude equalizer that ramps up the lows, mids, and highs to your liking) and the volume level before running that signal onward to speaker system. (This is also what the knobs on most guitar amps are attempting to do...)

The advantage of the passive type pickups are that they are dead simple and the signal they deliver is usually pretty clean. Not a lot of electronic noise (before you run it into your amplification "chain".) Basically, every penny of what you are paying for a passive is going into the quality of the pickup. The downside is that you might want a pre-amp (which can be pretty expensive if you are looking to get a good one. But you only need one to use with all of the passive pickups on all of your instruments...)

An active pickup is basically a passive pick up with the pre-amp built in and powered by a battery. Some have a knobs to control tone and volume, some don't. In general (and I really mean that, take this with a grain of salt) active pickups have more electronic noise in their signal than a passive one does. When you buy an active pickup, the cost is not just going to the pickup, it is going to the pre-amp too. So if you buy a $150 active, not all of the $150 went to making a really good pickup, some went to the rest of the electronics. This is why, in general, similarly priced passive and active pickups won't really be of similar quality.

The regular MiSi that a lot of folks use is an active pickup, but with a rechargeable power system (I think it is just a capacitor, not a battery, since it charges so fast.) Instead of being a disk of piezoelectric material inside the instrument, it is a strip that is inserted under the saddle itself and then run into the electronics inside through a small hole drilled in the bridge. They work pretty well, but you have sand down the saddle to make room for that strip and you have to drill a hole.

Then there are the weird ones, like the Anuenue Air-Air pickup. It couples a piezo pickup with a tiny microphone. Both are mounted inside the body, and you have controls to mix the signals from the two sources to get a really nice, natural sound. Word is that they sound fantastic, but they are pretty pricey. I believe that the MiSi Air does works the same way.

I mostly don't like pickups (particularly active ones), because I think they make most instruments sound more similar. In other words, the sound of a high end koa with an inexpensive active pickup isn't *that* much different from an inexpensive laminate with the exact same pickup. They just sound "same-y" to my ears. If you go for a good pickup, this becomes less true, and if you go for a good passive pickup it is better still.

The most "natural" sounding pickup I have personally run across is the K&K Twinspot. It is passive, and has two piezo pads; one goes inbetween the G and C, and one between E and A underneath the saddle. This is the pickup that Mya Moe used (is still using?) and is installed by Aaron Keim at Beansprout. Run it into a decent pre-amp and it sounds more like you have used a mic than a pickup. It still sounds like you can "hear" the wood, if that makes sense.

K&K also makes the Aloha, which as I understand it is the Twinspot but with shorter wires (since the Twinspot can be put in a guitar.) I can't swear this is true, but it is what I have heard, so I am passing it along.
 
Thats where I'm confused. Muslady has a pickup for $6.00, while others that look identical cost $100 or more - just a disk, a wire, and a jack.

The one I bought for my bari mounts in a 1/2" hole at the end pin location (see my thread in the luthier forum) and is secured with 3 screws needing 1/16" holes. $21 on Amazon, no need to glue sensors or put anything under the bridge saddle. It works great.
 
I have successfully installed and used various K&K P/Us in 2 guitars, 2 banjos and 4 mandolins. They are K&Ks proprietary version of the disk, wire and jack types mentioned by the OP. They supply a good, strong, clean signal either direct to amp or via outboard pre-amp. I use the permanently attached versions which need a bit more skill and care to install, but external versions are available for most versions. All come with detailed instructions and aids for fitting.
I too noticed the big price variation between these and the no frills, no name versions, so when a friend asked me to install one in his new mandolin, I decided to experiment.
I ordered the appropriate K&K P/U and at the same time ordered a No Name from Amazon.
The K&K had 2 P/Us wired to internally mounted strap button/jack socket. P/U was plastic covered, approximately 1/2 inch disk with 2 flattened sides. Came boxed with instructions and aids to fitting.
The No-Name has 3 exposed disks, approx 1/2 inch each, wired to internally mounted strap button/jack socket. Came in clear plastic ziplock bag, at about 1/10th the price.

I made sound recordings by attaching the disks with Bluetack to the outer surface at each end of the bridge as recommended by K&K. I kept one of the No-Name disks clear from the mandolin surface. The recordings were DI into a Tascam digital 8 track and copies, without identification, sent to the mandolin player and a couple of other musician friends. The general thoughts were;
1 General sound level was similar,
2 Both sounded accurate, but slightly different, but not different enough that you could say one was ten times more expensive.
I put the K&K into the mandolin and installed the No-Name in a Godin 5th Avenue Archtop, it sounds good.
Some time later I got another No-Name and installed it in a flat-top acoustic, it was harsh and very treble sounding, so I removed it.
I don't think the No-Names were from the same supplier, but it's an indication of spec or quality variations at the lower price point.

It's something I'd like to learn more about, but don't know enough about electronics to know where to look.
I've noticed that the disks come in various sizes and some have what appear to be ratings printed on them but don't know what is suitable for instruments.

Vintage
 
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The one I bought for my bari mounts in a 1/2" hole at the end pin location (see my thread in the luthier forum) and is secured with 3 screws needing 1/16" holes. $21 on Amazon, no need to glue sensors or put anything under the bridge saddle. It works great.

I wonder how it picks up the sound.
 
Cluze, thanks for taking the time to write such a clear explanation. I feel like now I almost understand.
 
A few thoughts:
I have a k&k in one of my guitars. I also use jjb which is a small shop in the Midwest, and a similar configuration to the k&k. Either one can work well in a ukulele, but if the instrument is very lightly built and responsive then there may be issues with feedback. Also, if the pickup element cannot be installed directly under the strings on the bridge plate, I would strongly consider another option. An example of this would be an instrument with a pull through type of bridge and a narrow bridge plate.

I have a MiSi in my Romero Creations Baritone 6-string, which is one example of the problem stated above. A couple of things to keep in mind when installing these - getting proper string to string volume can sometimes be a bit fiddly. Also, be mindful of the fan braces underneath when drilling through the saddle slot.

I hope that was helpful, and not overly involved.
 
I wonder how it picks up the sound.

Piezo is very vibration sensitive. Think about those tuners that clamp on the headstock and how well they work. The whole instrument vibrates when you strike a note.

In any event, the one I installed on my bari works very well and I'm very happy with it.
 
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