Question about Zero Fret and Action?

This is a rambling sort of question about setup. I don't own a zero fret instrument, but I know about them. On all my instruments, the action is noticeably higher at the first fret than it is at the second fret when the string is fretted at the first fret. So, with a zero fret instrument, is that the same, or does the zero fret bring the action down at the first fret? I hope I'm being clear. If not, let me know and I'll try to reword it. Thanks!

"Does the zero fret bring the action down at the first fret?" It can be misleading to generalize, but mostly, the answer is, Yes, and that is a good thing.

John Colter

With my 15 y/o fluke which has a plastic fret board, it's like having another fret just after the nut. The nut doesn't do much more than guide the string to the right place.

But this does bring up a question I've had for a while about setup. If one capos at the first fret and lowers the saddle to where nothing buzzes, can the nut slots then be lowered to a point where the first fret doesn't buzz and be safe with the rest of the frets? I'm hoping this will work, but someone here who knows might save me some grief.

ukantor said:

"Does the zero fret bring the action down at the first fret?" It can be misleading to generalize, but mostly, the answer is, Yes, and that is a good thing.

John Colter

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I would agree. With a standard nut it's not uncommon to find stock action at the first fret as high 0.040" to 0.050". Way over the ideal goal of 0.015" to 0.020", but at least it won't buzz, and can be lowered later by the owner. Getting it lower isn't hard, but it takes time and labor, and raises cost. With a zero fret you can much more safely build in a closer tolerance - without added labor - at perhaps 0.030". The down side is that you are then stuck with that 0.030" action, as lowering a zero fret is a real pain. You either replace the fret with a lower one, or file down the existing zero fret (without going too low!) and then re-crown it.

The first fret action on my Magic Fluke Tenor Firefly banjo uke with zero fret has always been a disappointment, being close to 0.035" - not the 0.020" I would prefer. I just haven't been bothered enough to get out my files.

Nothing wrong with a zero fret, but I would always prefer a nut that I can easily and fully adjust, and even replace if necessary. In the guitar world zero frets have a bad rap because they were traditionally used on very inexpensive instruments as a way to avoid the labor of adjusting the action at the nut prior to shipment.

VegasGeorge said:

This is a rambling sort of question about setup. I don't own a zero fret instrument, but I know about them. On all my instruments, the action is noticeably higher at the first fret than it is at the second fret when the string is fretted at the first fret. So, with a zero fret instrument, is that the same, or does the zero fret bring the action down at the first fret? I hope I'm being clear. If not, let me know and I'll try to reword it. Thanks!

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The answer is, of course "It depends."

Different builders will have different ideas about what action is "correct" and setup their instruments accordingly.

There are very few absolutes in luthiery beyond those imposed by physics.

Zero frets tend to have lower action at the first fret since... well instead of a nut, there is a fret.

Risa Uke-Solid electrics come with a Zero fret.
If I recall correctly, a slightly larger sized fret is used for the zero fret compared to the other frets.

That being said, an ukulele with a regular nut could be adjusted so its action at the first fret is as low (or lower) than a zero fret.
So the answer is, it depends on how you set up your instrument.


Many factory nuts from inexpensive makers have the action set a bit high. It takes attention to detail to setup nut height low, hence they don't typically do it for you at the factory where things need to be mass produced. Also, lowering the nut adds the risk of going too low and causing buzz.

As my arthritic hands have gotten worse over time, I've become more and more interested in achieving the lowest possible action, and still avoid buzzing. I have several good instruments that I really need to work on. I have the tools and experience to lower the action, but I've been reluctant to do so on instruments that have come to me with a decent setup. But, as I say, even that has become challenging for my hands and fingers. My "decent," and the standard "decent" just aren't the same anymore. I hate it when I have to stop playing just because of pain in my left hand. I'm using CBD creams and taking analgesics, both of which help. But I still have some problems. I think I'm rambling, so I'll stop. Thanks for all the good replies!

VegasGeorge said:

As my arthritic hands have gotten worse over time, I've become more and more interested in achieving the lowest possible action, and still avoid buzzing. I have several good instruments that I really need to work on. I have the tools and experience to lower the action, but I've been reluctant to do so on instruments that have come to me with a decent setup. But, as I say, even that has become challenging for my hands and fingers. My "decent," and the standard "decent" just aren't the same anymore. I hate it when I have to stop playing just because of pain in my left hand. I'm using CBD creams and taking analgesics, both of which help. But I still have some problems. I think I'm rambling, so I'll stop. Thanks for all the good replies!

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Yep, it seems there are quite a few of us in this forum with the same problem. That's what started me looking into creating a string tension list. Also I asked David Hanson to create a uke for me that he called the "Ergo-uke" for ergononic ukulele. It has very low setup, 10 inch radius fret board, and a shorter treble side than bass side all in one uke. I'll probably put out a NUD post later this week. Anyway, good luck with our problem.