Routing binding channels

Vespa Bob

Vespa Bob

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I'm curious to know what type of router is favoured when routing binding channels. Do you use a Dremel tool, a trim router, or a full sized router? I've always used a Dremel tool. together with Stewmac's guide, because it's easier for me to work with due to its light weight. However, I'm aware of the fact that the 3/16" router bit, being small in diameter, wouldn't produce as smooth a channel as that made by a 1/2" or larger one.

Bob
 
I use the SM guide with a Dremel tool with a 1/4 bit. I'm not sure that a larger bit gives a cleaner cut or not but I get good clean cuts (mostly). I also "nibble" at the channel by making multiple passes until the desired depth is achieved. The advantage being that small amounts of material are removed on each pass leading to a cleaner cut by not bogging down the underpowered Dremel tool. The down side is it takes longer and provides more chances to screw up, i.e. tilting the router in on the bouts. To me it has never been an ideal system and using something like a Colt router would be a better solution but you know how it is, you stick with what you know cause it works.
 
Hi Bob , I use the Bosch palm router/trimmer with my own built jig and SM router bit set. It's a long story but I have gone off Bosch tools and wouldn't recommend it and regret not buying the Makita equivalent. In fact I'm wishing my Bosch would fail so I can replace it! The Makita is far better, smoother and quieter with variable speed. Mike
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I've always used a laminate trimmer with either the SM or LMI cutter with various sized guide bearings. For the last 6 years or so I've switched all my trimmers to the Makita's. I keep a dedicated cutter in 3 of them. One for flush trim of top and back. One for the bindings and one for the purflings to back and top.
 
Makita laminate trimmer with Stewmac multi-bearing kit and 2 DIY perspex plate attachments. One flat for top and one not flat to cater for 12' radius on back.
Miguel
 
It's all a question of $. You can make anything work. That said, the current LMI binding tower is pretty good. Has the best way of controlling micro height adjustments that I've ever seen. The carriage is way over engineered and not worth messing with in IMO. The standard shop made carriage works better and does not require a degree in engineering to use. I bought a couple of Bosch Colts and could not get rid of them fast enough. Noisy with lousy depth adjustment. Maybe they have gotten better. The current Makita laminate trimmers are great. I have a few and especially really like the cordless ones. You just have to have an extra battery handy. Battery power is long lasting, but you don't want to be in the middle of a project and have to wait for a battery to recharge. The Makita's are fairly reasonably priced on Amazon with or without a plunge base.As Allen said, the binding cutters with the bearings are the way to go too.
 
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Was just cutting binding channels today and ...
My next purchase will be a laminate trimmer with an UNDO button.
Miguel
 
The Rigid trim router from Home Depot is very good. Soft start and a really accurate fine depth adjustment. I made a long base for it out of acrylic which makes it much easier to control and keep vertical. I use the SM router with bearings.
 
fungusgeek said:
The Rigid trim router from Home Depot is very good. Soft start and a really accurate fine depth adjustment. I made a long base for it out of acrylic which makes it much easier to control and keep vertical. I use the SM router with bearings.
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I have half a dozen laminate trimmers in my shop, including one Makita and one Bosch. The rest are Rigids from Home Depot and I like them as much or better than the others.
 
I have long since discovered that the issues I have, no one else has. I had up to 4 Rigid trimmers at one point, with several dedicated jig fixtures. On every one, the brushes welded themselves to the the housing and could not be removed without total disassemble. I don't know it that is a chemical corrosion issue or an electrically causd one. I have had many many routers, and still do, and never had that issue with any other brand.
 
I also use the Rigid Laminate trimmer from Home Depot (have 3 of them) and have never had an issue. I love the fine depth adjustment they have.
 
As I stated above, I made an extended base for my Rigid laminate trimmer. I would encourage anyone using a laminate trimmer (regardless of brand) to make such an extended base. The added control it gives is enormous. On the back, which has a 15' radius, this just kind of piviots around on the high spot, and I can keep the trimmer very vertical.
 

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Thanks for the informative replies. I think that on my present project I'll use my Makita router with the SM router and bearings, which I almost forgot that I have!
Bob
 
fungusgeek said:
As I stated above, I made an extended base for my Rigid laminate trimmer. I would encourage anyone using a laminate trimmer (regardless of brand) to make such an extended base. The added control it gives is enormous. On the back, which has a 15' radius, this just kind of piviots around on the high spot, and I can keep the trimmer very vertical.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea! I need to make that extension!
 
The extension may give you some more control, but ultimately, if you are going to build more than a few instruments, get an LMI binding tower, a Makita trim router, Stew Mac router cutters and make your own sled. The increase in precision is significant.
Brad
 
I have the Stewmac Tru Channel Binding Router Jig, solid aluminum, item 5993 in their catalog, which I'll give away for free, plus shipping, which won't be cheap, as the jig is pretty heavy! First person to request it, gets it!
Bob
 
Well, I guess I will take you up on your offer. I dont make a lot of ukes. But bindings are a real struggle for me using my router by hand. I would like to give the
SM rig a whirl. I will send you a PM. Duane
 
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