Does this saddle look right?

What is the white stuff at the base?
 
It looks a bit sloppy but I don't think it will fail any time soon. The white I'm guessing is mostly an optical illusion from out of focus highlights.
 
Isn't the saddle in backwards? Shouldn't the slant at the top of the saddle be facing the butt of the uke? :confused:
 
I was thinking the same thing! It seemed like an odd placement to have the honed edge against the strings.
I measured the saddle and couldn't find an identical replacement from graphtech so I just ordered a few blanks to try and shape my own. The current saddle is 2.7mm, so I'm going to start at 3mm and see how it fits. Replacing the saddle might be overkill, but the action is already SUPER low and causing some buzz, so I'm going to raise it a hair. Otherwise it sounds amazing and zero intonation issues like my other uke/post. This uke was practically a gift so I'm grateful to learn more as I go and I appreciate all the tips advice. This is a such a helpful group and I'm glad to be a part of it. Hopefully someday I can return the favor!
 
Just turn the saddle around. Loosen the strings enough to slide it out, flip it, slide back in, and tune up the strings again.

Where is the 2.7mm being measured from? At the saddle or at the 12h fret? If at the 12th fret that is not a super low action and you might need to look elsewhere for the source of the buzz.

But you could put in a shim under the saddle when you flip it. Cardboard or credit card stock is enough to let you check if that helps before going to the trouble of a new saddle or full setup.
 
Thanks Jim,
The 2.7mm is the thickness of the saddle. I'll try a shim tomorrow and see what's up.
But you're right I should learn how to measure action and check that, too.
 
It looks to me like the string angle is too sharp from the saddle to where they go into the bridge. That will put extra forward pressure on the saddle. With the saddle pushed forward it may have been necessary to put the high point of the saddle at the rear of the saddle to get the proper intonation. The string makes contact over the middle of the saddle slot with this adjustment. If it sounds fine it should not really be an issue, your question sounds like this was more of a curiosity for you. Also the white at the base of the bridge could be glue residue, hard to tell since it is out of focus.
 
Personally, I would not go messing with the break on the saddle until I did some careful measurements of the scale (not the action - a separate issue).
I have goofed on the bridge placement of a uke I was building which caused intonation problems, but I was able to compensate by moving the point of contact between the strings and the saddle to the back of the saddle, as shown in your photo.
If this is what happened then switching the saddle around will certainly be disruptive to your intonation. I am not aware of any affect this correction has, other than to correct the intonation in this specific case.
OTOH, you can certainly switch the saddle around and see if it helps or hurts. Still, better to measure the scale length and know where you stand, I think. Goggle will show many sites to learn how to do this.
 
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