Jet 16/32 drum sander(new 2018 model) adjustment

mikeyb2

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When trying to level the table to the drum, or adjust for workpieces wider than the table so that no visible sanding ridges occur, the new machine is supposed to make this easier by having a single adjusting knob which is secured by two knurled locking bolts.
By using a steel rule under the drum when it is lowered, an adjustment can be made quite precisely.
The problem is that when the locking bolts are tightened, it alters the adjustment and raises the table slightly which then messes everything up, so then I need to start again.
A quick google tells me this was a common problem on the old machines, and some people used shims on the outside edge of the drum, before tightening the locking bolts. Another user advised not to tighten the locking bolts too much(or fully).
My guess is that I'm not the only one who has experienced this problem, so what do any of you do to overcome this?
Cheers Mike
 
I placed a dial indicator adjacent to the adjustment rod. So then I could see the amount of actual movement once the bed is tight.
As the the opposite side of the drum is not the zero point of flexure it still takes some integration to remove the wedge that was present in the tool.

Hope that helps someone,
Bryan Keener
 
Try a spring locking washer on the knurled nuts …I use a pair of pliers with leather jaws to tighten the nuts. .. I do admit it is a bit fiddly to get it right and I keep having to re- tighten the abrasive belt at the right hand side quite often.
 
I'll try that Ken, but I don't think the problem is caused by the knurled knobs coming loose, it seems to be that the more you tighten them the more the table lifts. I have used pliers to tighten them, but I'm wondering whether finger tight is sufficient and obviously the way they are meant to be, hence the knurling. Thanks Mike
 
I'll try that Ken, but I don't think the problem is caused by the knurled knobs coming loose, it seems to be that the more you tighten them the more the table lifts. I have used pliers to tighten them, but I'm wondering whether finger tight is sufficient and obviously the way they are meant to be, hence the knurling. Thanks Mike
Its not to stop them coming loose its to stop movement as you tighten up, maybe star washers would work better.
 
Thanks for the clarification Ken, I'll try that when the weather cools down a bit. It's no fun in the garage this week! And of course when I adjust it, I will have to try it out and I'm trying not to annoy the neighbours, who are sat out on the other side of the fence. They are new and I'm trying to break them in gently! Mike
 
and I'm trying not to annoy the neighbours, who are sat out on the other side of the fence. They are new and I'm trying to break them in gently! Mike

When I use my Dremel router to cut in binding channels it sounds very much like a dental drill on steroids. Horrible noise. When anybody comes by to see what the hell is going on I pretend to ignore them with my ear muffs on. I get a free pass because I'm an "ukulele builder" which seems to make everything okay. Everybody loves ukuleles.

Sorry for the thread steal. Now back to everything annoying about Jet drum sanders...
 
Its not to stop them coming loose its to stop movement as you tighten up, maybe star washers would work better.

Well Ken, I tried star washers (shakeproof as I've seen them called) today. They did seem to help, as there was far less movement of the table when I tightened the nuts. At the moment it seems reasonably well adjusted but I'll keep my eye on it. Many thanks for the suggestion. Cheers Mike.
 
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