Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 48

Thread: learning about Re-sawing

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
    Posts
    5,053

    Default learning about Re-sawing

    I recently bought some nice mahogany and it needed resawing into 4mm boards...So I set up the bandsaw as usual and started sawing..but as soon as I started I realised I was having problems..The saw blade was drifting all over the place, and the 4mm slices I usually produce were coming out like banana's instead of the nice flat ones ..I ended up scrapping the first two slices...I understand the fault is called "cupping" in the trade.
    So I went on to Google to find out what was happening..The first thing was ..Is it a new blade or a worn one??..it is in fact a brand new one...next! is the fence as high as the wood...yes it's an 8 inch engineers angle plate... next is the blade tension as it should be?? ...well the tension screw is really tight..but is the blade at the right tension???..i plucked it as if it was a bass guitar string, expecting a " Diong" sound but instead I just got a "thud" so I kew I had a problem there..so I stripped down the machine..cleaned out all the crud ..removed the top spool and cleaned and greased the tensioning device..re-assembled everything... gave the blade a twang..this time it sounded like "Duane Eddy's guitar" (fantastic)..I set up to re-saw again and all the slices came out just like they should...More input for my brain to remember

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Santa Cruz, Ca.
    Posts
    607

    Default

    Have seen two schools with re-sawing.
    One is to use a long tall fence and the other is to use a short pivot point guide at the cut and follow the line.
    What I have found works for me is a long tall fence, a wide blade, good tension and most importantly, to make the cut very, very slowly.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Lansing, Michigan
    Posts
    1,572

    Default

    I really like my Grizzly GO555X. I just resawed some six inch cherry. I used the standard fence along with a heavy block of ash to hold the cherry against the fence. I also use a Timberwolf 3/4 AS-S blade. The sides, backs and tops came out great. If they aren't perfect, the thickness sander makes up the difference in a pass or two. I've read about blade drift, but the only time I've experienced it is when I had my 1/8" blade under tensioned.
    Last edited by Matt Clara; 03-25-2010 at 01:49 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Columbus, OH
    Posts
    790

    Default

    Do it on a table saw - I cut to about 3/32" (two passes) and it comes out almost perfectly smooth. Glue it up, and a couple passes through the thickness sander take it down to 1/16", ready to use. Easy peasy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Wales, UK
    Posts
    5,229

    Default

    I did a video on this Ken - use a 5/8" 028" or .032" thick 3tpi CS 'skip tooth' blade. Draw a line on a piece of wood and as best you can follow this free hand. This should then give you the path of the offset or drift caused by the inevitable preference of the blade to cut to the left or the right. Set your fence to follow this path.

    Sawyer turned the blade to guage tension. It should, outside of the guide get through no more than a quarter turn.

    What I do is saw to 2.5mm. After each pass I send the cut surface through the sander. This increases yield and cuts down thicknessing time. You should get about an hours use out of each new blade and as Paul recommends, as soon as you start to get bananas change the blade. Always cut the wood to the length you require for your individual blanks sawing backs and fronts first then sides.



    And Dave - deep sawing which is what you are doing is the most wasteful and dangerous of resawing methods! I've told you this before and you still haven't repented of doing it have you

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Henderson, Nevada
    Posts
    80

    Default

    That deep sawing will kill you! especially if you don't use a zero clearance throat on your table saw. I got a 18" Jet with a 1" blade, I use the fence with the pivot works great! I have done 10" thick and it will go to 12". I just resaw on it got a 14" jet for the small curvy stuff.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
    Posts
    5,053

    Default

    Do you Guy's get the saw blades re-sharpened or buy new ones ?....I have a bundle of worn ones.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Santa Cruz, CA
    Posts
    2,695

    Default

    I use a 20 Hp Baker AX horizontal band resaw with TimberWolf variable pitch 3/4" blades. They only take out .046" in kerf...less than 1/16". I can saw to just under 14" widths. The machine has a conveyor belt feed with a powered hold down. It's a monster and works as well or better than any resaw rig I know of in the US.

    The TimberWolf blades can be bought for smaller saws, too. Check out Suffolk Machinery.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    306

    Default

    I've been a pattern maker/ model make for 35 years now. Most of the band saws I used were 36 or 48 inch. I used to to saw 12 or better pieces on a 1/4 blade and leave only 3/32 for clean up. Since I've designed, modeled and invented for the last 13 years I can cut as well as I used to so I went to a 1 inch blade it works very well and cuts with virtually no cupping. The only objection is having to change out all the settings on the guides.
    Music is found in the spaces between the notes- in the silence between the chords. Get your spaces right, and you've got it. Albert Greenfield

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Lansing, Michigan
    Posts
    1,572

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Turner View Post
    I use a 20 Hp Baker AX horizontal band resaw with TimberWolf variable pitch 3/4" blades. They only take out .046" in kerf...less than 1/16". I can saw to just under 14" widths. The machine has a conveyor belt feed with a powered hold down. It's a monster and works as well or better than any resaw rig I know of in the US.

    The TimberWolf blades can be bought for smaller saws, too. Check out Suffolk Machinery.
    I use the same blade. I contacted Suffolk twice via email when I was trying to figure out what blades I should buy. They never wrote me back. I order all my Timberwolf blades right from Grizzly, and wouldn't give Suffolk the time of day if they asked me for it.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •