"Haunted Uke Strings"?

Howie1947

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Just recently put some new strings on my Kamaka. Been on for over a month now. They still require constant tuning, I also have another problem. When they are all in tune, and I play for a while, and then proceed to re-check the tuning with several different chromatic tuners. What is happening is that a couple of my strings CE measure too high on the tuner, then I unslack them where they are right on the mark, play for a while re-check and they are appearing "overtuned" then I slack off on them again. Any idea what may be going on???
 
  • Did you pre-stretch them by tuning them sharp when you first installed the strings?
  • Are they carbons?
It helps if you tell us the make/model of the strings.
 
They are Ddario pro arte classical guitar strings. No I did not pre-stretch them. Like I said they have been on for well over a month now
 
I've never tried installing classical guitar strings on an ukulele. I understand that Jake did that until D'Addario caught on and created a set of ukulele strings based on Jake's selection.

My first thoughts are that the unit weights for each string would be rather high for such a short-scale instrument unless you used the D'Addario tension table (or the tension formula) to select the appropriate strings. I vaguely recall the strings settling sharp when I tried to install classical guitar strings on a requinto and tuning it to EADGBE (instead of ADGCEA).

Maybe someone with better string knowledge will be able to answer your question.
 
Nylon is weird. They have a "memory" that causes them to resist quick changes (such as tuning) and they try to revert back to their earlier state. That means if a string is sharp and you tune it down, it's natural tendency is to try to go sharp again. Most of the time stretching far exceeds this "memory" and we never see this and they're usually flat and try to go flat after tuning, but it can happen. They're also somewhat heat sensitive. Vibrations and fingering causes heat. Not much, but it's there. That too will affect how and how far they drift.

All of this is usually solved naturally by allowing the strings to "settle" after installing. With the low tension of a Uke this can take a week or more. After that, the natural drift (up OR down) is rather small.
 
Thanks for the info Dave, but these strings have been on for well over a month ! I'm wondering if I got some bad strings??
 
I also happen to have a Kamaka tenor with nylon strings. I have also noticed that the strings will actually be sharper the next day after tuning. I don't think it has anything to do with the uke being a Kamaka, but rather either the strings being nylon or the fact that I most often tune and then play my uke in a media room in my basement that is cool. I return the uke to the 2nd story office which is much warmer where I hang it on the wall until I play again. When I first noticed this unusual happening I suspected it was the change in temperature /and or humidity. I have not noticed it with my other ukes which are not strung with nylon strings. Perhaps you are experiencing the same thing. My strings are also several months old and still sharpen.
 
I'm with the King on this one. Once the initial stretch is over, they're still nylon. Any tuning up or down will cause them to resist the change and try to go back. Coincidentally, I use the D'Addario Pro Arte's on my classical guitar and it does that to me too. Even when unplayed for several months (blame the Uke obsession on that) if I tune it down to something like DADGAD the high D tries to go back up to E.
 
Check the wraps on the tuning posts. Sometimes as strings stretch you wind up with too many turns around the posts.
If the wraps are overlapped you can't tune accurately.
Another thing to check is the slots in the nut. Your new strings may be a bit heavier than the last set and might be binding in the slots.
When tuning push on the string between the nut and post, if it goes sharp you are sticking. Try a little graphite (lead pencil) or dry lube in the slots.
Also when tuning make sure you come UP to the note not down.
 
Thanks for all the help........................May just hope the situation works itself out with time.................
 
I put the J71's (Pro Arte) on my Kala archtop to replace the Aquilas. I don't need the volume with the Kala, it has a shadow pickup after all, and I am playing some pieces that require slides and the Aquilas aren't as good for that. I noticed that they stretched a lot the first three or four days, then settled down. As a result I have more windings of string on the tuners than I like but it hasn't been a problem so far.
 
I put the J71's (Pro Arte) on my Kala archtop to replace the Aquilas. I don't need the volume with the Kala, it has a shadow pickup after all, and I am playing some pieces that require slides and the Aquilas aren't as good for that. I noticed that they stretched a lot the first three or four days, then settled down. As a result I have more windings of string on the tuners than I like but it hasn't been a problem so far.

If you have overlaps (string on string instead of post) on the winding you will probably have tuning issues.
While 2 or 3 wraps are plenty, I would not feel the need to trim some excess unless I had overlaps.
 
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