Fun Build

Sorry. For some reason I thought one of the ideas was to auction it off and donate the money to charity. I must be having weird dreams again.

Yeah, that was someone else's idea, but I stated right off the bat that I would like for this uke to be given away on UU's contest forum. The charity thing is a noble idea but I think that this is a good way to give thanks for the best Ukulele site on the globe, and for all the hard work they've put into this site. I would like the contest to be titled "Pay it forward". I dunno what it'll be about yet :confused:... maybe someone has an idea.
 
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Yeah, that was someone else's idea, but I stated right off the bat that I would like for this uke to be given away on UU's contest forum. The charity thing is a nobel idea ( don't get me started on charity groups ), but I think that this is a good way to give thanks for the best Ukulele site on the globe, and for all the hard work they've put into this site. I would like the contest to be titled "Pay it forward".

And subtitled "Frankenuke GOOD."
 
Update on the back - we finished jointing and joining the pieces today. We decided against the mahogany as it had some runout that we didn't want to deal with, so we used a piece of ribbon sapele instead.
P1010931_sm..jpg

Note that the photo is kinda upside down - the walnut is actually on the treble side, sapele on the bass side. The photo's not taken straight frontal, so it doesn't look right when you turn it around the other way, sorry.

Side note: I like this project, but if there has ever been one that didn't like me... this is it. First the walnut split - OK, we picked another piece. Then the plane jumped when it hit the maple and did a little touch down / take off trick resulting in about eight or ten really ugly gouges (a couple are still visible in the photo if you look closely). And about three other things that just spoiled the fun the whole time... :\

Anyway, I'm wondering about a couple things. One is the "pre-finishing". If you are going to feather the back after you put it on, I wonder how much work we need to put into getting a perfect polish before we send it to you. Also, I'm wondering how far down to take the thickness - it's about 2.2-2-6mm right now.

Another question is about the radius margin. Brad, you said 2mm all around is more than enough - OK, I believe you, but I would feel better with about 4 mm.

Finally, the braces. As I have said before, we can't really shape the braces without seeing exactly how they fit with the radius.

Let me know what you think.

Erich
 
Nice Erich--has an art deco feel to it. Reminded me of the three little bops (old cartoon from looney tunes): three_bops..jpg

I've finished a couple of fretboards, now, and I can't decide which one I like better, or if they are both too "loud".
antesfretboards..jpg
 
I'm not entirely happy with either, though either should function properly. The satinwood and padauk one is quite fun, but the three stripes at the bottom don't join it entirely cleanly. (I've got to make a shooting board. And buy a decent plane. And learn how to use/maintain it. This whole wood working thing is just one big slippery slope into a money pit!) The other has the problem that Ken noticed--my pattern reveals the misplaced marker all too well, though it's less pronounced if you don't look at it straight on.

I could make a third, plain, out of tulipwood. I have a lovely piece that's cream with rose quarter grain. I don't really want to make another soprano fretboard, though.
 
Dude... Matt... those fretboards freaking rock! The one on the left screams CAUTION - Ukulele Players Ahead... the one on the right says Peace Man.
 
Update on the back - we finished jointing and joining the pieces today. We decided against the mahogany as it had some runout that we didn't want to deal with, so we used a piece of ribbon sapele instead.
View attachment 13189

Note that the photo is kinda upside down - the walnut is actually on the treble side, sapele on the bass side. The photo's not taken straight frontal, so it doesn't look right when you turn it around the other way, sorry.

Side note: I like this project, but if there has ever been one that didn't like me... this is it. First the walnut split - OK, we picked another piece. Then the plane jumped when it hit the maple and did a little touch down / take off trick resulting in about eight or ten really ugly gouges (a couple are still visible in the photo if you look closely). And about three other things that just spoiled the fun the whole time... :\

Anyway, I'm wondering about a couple things. One is the "pre-finishing". If you are going to feather the back after you put it on, I wonder how much work we need to put into getting a perfect polish before we send it to you. Also, I'm wondering how far down to take the thickness - it's about 2.2-2-6mm right now.

Another question is about the radius margin. Brad, you said 2mm all around is more than enough - OK, I believe you, but I would feel better with about 4 mm.

Finally, the braces. As I have said before, we can't really shape the braces without seeing exactly how they fit with the radius.

Let me know what you think.

Erich
Erich, That looks great! That will play very nicely off the end graft.
 
Got the neck block glued in. Must have spent two hours dry clamping and checking for proper orientation making certain this wasn't one of those ukes that you had to play behind your back because the neck was on backwards. Oh, and I wanted to make sure the rim assembly didn't get glued to the mold.
Funny, it's a whole different story when it's someone else's neck and you're going to send it on to another person for the next step. I trust Brad to be kind (and perhaps discreet) when he gets this.
 

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Liners

And yes; it did come out of the mold. Whew.
Decided the liners I had made were too crappy looking so got some from StuMac. They are big but I glued them slightly proud of the neck and tail block. There should be plenty of room for Steve to do his wondrous binding thing. Had to add a back bevel to the liners at the waste so they would make the tight radius.
 

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This neck from Ken was made for this rim assembly. Brad, final adjustment should be a breeze.
Next step for me is to sand a 15' radius on to the back. It's looking more and more like a ukulele, eh?
 

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This neck from Ken was made for this rim assembly. Brad, final adjustment should be a breeze.
Next step for me is to sand a 15' radius on to the back. It's looking more and more like a ukulele, eh?
I see you made the mistake I used to make on my first ukes...By not shaping the rim around the "V" of the neck block... Now the heel of the neck will have to be kept long to hide the join...Or a filler bit put in:D:D..Not a bad fit for a dovetail joint first try either..Congrat's.
 
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