Fun Build

Guys I started this project and I'll do my part and send it to the final builder, but I won't be posting much on here anymore. One of the reasons I wanted to do this was to bring the builders together with a little fun but I've already offended someone with one of the posts on this thread and have been told to "watch the sauce". I think it's best if I just cut out for a while.

Take it easy...
OK. That was me. I was not offended. "Watch the sauce" was said in jest. It was part of my response to a comment Vic made to me in an email. My fault for becoming too familiar too soon.
It was followed by the comment that some of my best ideas have come while under the influence...... just to put it in context.
Fred
 
OK. That was me. I was not offended. "Watch the sauce" was said in jest. It was part of my response to a comment Vic made to me in an email. My fault for becoming too familiar too soon.
It was followed by the comment that some of my best ideas have come while under the influence...... just to put it in context.
Fred

Yes just a misunderstanding! Can't read emotions through an email, I should know that. Ok I'm back to posting again.
Which jeweler's saw should I get?
 
Here's where we are at.
If this is helpful, will be happy to maintain it. Perhaps improve the format.
Fun Build UU contest Soprano

1. Top: Bradford
2. Back: Erich
3. Braces:
4. Left side: Fahrner
5. Right side: Fahrner
5.5 Right and Left side bend & close. Vic
6. Fretboard: Matt Clara
7. Neck: Timbuck
8. Heal block: Timbuck
9. Tail block:
10. Bridge Patch: Bradford
11. Bridge ,saddle and nut: Sven?
12. Binding: Steve (twodogsplucking)
13. Headstock veneer/inlay: Victor Jones
14. Finish:
 
Here's where we are at.
If this is helpful, will be happy to maintain it. Perhaps improve the format.
Fun Build UU contest Soprano

Thank you so much Fred. And I do apologize for the misunderstanding, clearly it's my conscience telling me I do need to slow down on the beverage. Chuck said the other day "if you want to build a better ukulele, try to be a better person." That's been burning in my head every day now.
Now I gotta go dress frets and set action... Cheers!
 
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I've never done a dovetail, but I'd be happy to do the binding.

Are we talking about a dovetail neck joint? That needs to be clarified as it would affect various parts. Somehow I have voices in my ear saying dovetail isn't necessary for a (soprano) uke and makes other parts harder, such as the binding...
 
Oh I'm sorry I haven't written in a while. I can make bridge, saddle and nut, no problem. Bridge will be ebony, other parts bone. I'll leave string slots to final set-upper, and of course glueing the bridge in the right spot.

I only need an address to which to send it to, no need to send me the uke.

Sven
 
Are we talking about a dovetail neck joint? That needs to be clarified as it would affect various parts. Somehow I have voices in my ear saying dovetail isn't necessary for a (soprano) uke and makes other parts harder, such as the binding...

Timbuck offered up a dovetailed neck and heelblock. I would hope to bind it before the neck was installed. *fingers crossed*
 
I've not been following this but there was a similar thread 2 years ago. While laudable I think you have chosen the wrong instrument... The neck joint, especially if you want to go down the masochistic route of the dovetail (and I ask myself why unless this is a self improvement exercise) is a pig to do on a curved surface. And despite Ken's kind offer will present problems for whoever does it. I won't say, "Trust me," because I know this idea will press ahead with a life of its own, ignorant of any reasoned argument. :) And before you reach for the panic button I am not impugning anyones ability but have you ever tried working on someone else's instruments?

I await to be proved completely and utterly wrong folks!
 
I agree with Pete. This is going to be hard enough as is, putting together a pile of stray pieces. Maybe a bolt-on neck would be better?

BTW, if you want to radius the back and/or front that means we can't put braces on the back before we send it to the next person. So whoever bends the pieces and assembles the box will have to do the bracing, right?
 
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I don't know what everyone is planning to do but we didn't intend to produce the back of a monstrosity and I don't think Brad's front with the mixed woods goes in that direction, dispite the diagonal cut and the slight (intentional) mismatch in the two woods - each of which is really nice. I see this as more of a freestyle improvisation with a mixed bag of woods.

Anyway, if you all just want to build a monster (Frankenuke 2010) then why would we want to put beautiful figured woods into it? How about marred, scarred, water stained and full of knots and cracks?
 
It is the hardest instrument to get right in every aspect. I would have chosen a concert or tenor, tightened the brief right down and managed the project so that it didn't get out of hand. With stuff like the this, the idea is not an ideal and trying to achieve consensus and the the ideal becomes a nightmare... I will not be taking part because of time constraints and the considerable issues I see with the project. However, I think it is a great idea if you are into experimental collaboration and I wish you all well.
 
"I saw—with shut eyes, but acute mental vision—I saw the pale student of unhallowed arts kneeling beside the thing he had put together. I saw the hideous phantasm of a man stretched out, and then, on the working of some powerful engine, show signs of life and stir with an uneasy, half-vital motion. Frightful must it be, for supremely frightful would be the effect of any human endeavor to mock the stupendous mechanism of the Creator of the world." -Victor

The top and back can have their braces installed by their creators... the radius is their choice.
The neck really does need to be a bolt on butt joint thingie the scale of Matt's template... 13.5 non compensated.
There is no time constraint... this is for fun.
I have my inlay supplies coming, when they get here it will take me at least 40 hours of work to complete the headplate inlay, and that's with
working on other projects... cause I need to keep the electricity on. Whoever does the neck will need to show me the peghead design.
Each builder puts what he or she wants into their part, I'll make it all fit when it gets to me, then send it to the binder who will in turn send
it to the finisher.
 
Here are the Grover tuners I'm throwing in. Now that I have them out of the package, they're pretty dang beefy! The insert thingie measures .36" and the depth ( thickness of headstock) seems to be around .41". If anyone has any experience with these tuners... any caveats one might encounter I'd like to hear from you.

If the neck builder wants me to drill and fit these that's fine. Just posting this so the neck builder will have an idea what type of headstock design is needed.

Thanks heaps for everyone's input. This is a very interesting project it is... too... also... *blink*... L8RS...
 
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