FAQ - Attaching the fretboard / fingerboard

erich@muttcrew.net

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I know this has been discussed in detail elsewhere, but I cannot for the life of me find the posts with the helpful tips on how to keep the fretboard from slipping when you glue it on.

We don't normally use fret markers at all, so the plastic pin method won't work. Actually I'm not sure how you would then fill the hole that goes all the way through the fretboard and into the neck, before you put the fret marker in - so that might be helpful for others.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Erich
 
Eric, I have used the plastic pin method by drilling blind holes (holes don't go all the way through) from the back side of the fret board. It's a pain to do but will work.
 
Another idea that I learned (I think) from Kathy Matsushita's website is to first fire two staples from a staple gun into the top of the neck then cut the flat part of the staples off so only a small sharp "brad" is sticking up. Carefully line up the finger board and then press it down onto these sharp staple points. Lift, apply glue, reposition, clamp, let dry. Those small points will keep the fingerboard form sliding once the glue is applied. I've tried this and it works.
 
I don't drill or pin ..I just clamp it in the right position....same with the bridge...if you clamp lightly to start and it slides out of position, you can push it back into place with the fingers.."when happy with the setting|" clamp up tight...and Bob's yer' Uncle.
 
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I used to ignore indexing the fret board for years until one of my finger boards with a complex inlay on it slipped unnoticed. It made a believer out of me and since have been using small brads as index pins. Try it and tell me if Fanny's not your aunt!
 
I do the staples as well, but I’m exploring other ideas. After several stitches and nerve damage in my thumb from removing a misaligned bridge, I index all my bridges and fretboards now.
 
I've only built 3 ukes so far but on the 1st two I had a heck of a time with the fretboard sliding around. On #3 I went with the staple method from Kathy Matsushita's web site and it was just the ticket. She puts the staples in the fretboard, I split one trying that and put them in the neck instead which works wonders.
 
I used to ignore indexing the fret board for years until one of my finger boards with a complex inlay on it slipped unnoticed. It made a believer out of me and since have been using small brads as index pins. Try it and tell me if Fanny's not your aunt!
If I get round to doing it one day..as I know I should, co's they do slip about a bit..Your's is the method i'll use Chuck..We call "brads".."Panel Pins" in the UK. ( my Aunt's names were..Hope, Grace, Nellie, Jessie, Enid & Mary)..No Fanny's.. Honest.
 
I'm processing 8 kits for a student class that I'm teaching in a months time. All the things that I do without thinking much have to be considered, and yesterday it was this very issue.

Using a Spanish heel with the 12th fret body join cleanly defined. I made a template of my finger board with it's exact dimensions and the 12th fret marked on the template and drilled two 4 mm holes in it that I used to drill blind holes in the back side of the fret board, and corresponding ones in the neck. Then just add some 4 mm dowel plugs to the neck and the finger board pops on in the exact position.

Might be more work for most who are just doing one or two builds occasionally, but when you want to make something fool proof for a bunch of students with no prior woodworking skills, and processing a lot of wood, then the time spent in making the jig/template is worth the trouble.
 
If it moves around that much you're probably using too much glue. I usually just wrap tape around the neck/fingerboard to keep it in place while I clamp. The 1/16 hole through a fret slot with brad is a good way too
 
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