Mini Table Saws

John, here's a couple of recommendations for what you want to do.
A small saw that cuts really well on the pull stroke;http://www.amazon.com/Shark-10-2204...f=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1276544184&sr=1-12
The other item is a small accurate mitre box; StewMac and LMI both have these but they are probably overkill unless your going into production. You can make one... probably the best choice.
Our you could shop/buy one; maybe like this; http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D320...ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1276544520&sr=1-4
Or this; http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Mit...f=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1276544657&sr=1-14
No friction here.... just the normal rants. Everyone is very safety conscious and believes in the right tool for the job. These beliefs are strong enough that at times, bring out some emotion.
The table saw is a favorite subject and sometimes brings heated discussion..... and some days it just doesn't take much to stir the pot.
Good luck with your project.
Fred
 
Pete Howlett said:
john - hold to your views. We are all friends here and no-one is trying to dis you or bait you. Using a mechanical tool is too often the route novices go to without actually considering the more Zen like apporach of hand tools. besides, spending money on an expensive piece of equipment that will rarely be used seems a bit odd to me... and this is the man with 13 routers!
Click to expand...

13 routers!?
You should never have told us that Pete.
Thought I was bad but only have 5. Wait till I tell my wife.
 
fahrner said:
John, here's a couple of recommendations for what you want to do.
A small saw that cuts really well on the pull stroke;http://www.amazon.com/Shark-10-2204...f=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1276544184&sr=1-12
The other item is a small accurate mitre box; StewMac and LMI both have these but they are probably overkill unless your going into production. You can make one... probably the best choice.
Our you could shop/buy one; maybe like this; http://www.amazon.com/Shop-Fox-D320...ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1276544520&sr=1-4
Or this; http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Mit...f=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1276544657&sr=1-14
No friction here.... just the normal rants. Everyone is very safety conscious and believes in the right tool for the job. These beliefs are strong enough that at times, bring out some emotion.
The table saw is a favorite subject and sometimes brings heated discussion..... and some days it just doesn't take much to stir the pot.
Good luck with your project.
Fred
Click to expand...

I would add to that a good plane and a shooting board, as Pete was alluding to (he has a good video on it which I cant seem to find at the moment). Before you can use a miter box, you have to get a good straight edge. On a small piece of stock, I can't think of a better way to get a flat edge, and eventually a square one, than a plane. Add a shooting board, and you don't really even need the miter box. I would probably do a rough rip cut with a pull saw (or back saw) and then use the plane or miter box and shooting board to get me the rest of the way.
 
Last edited:
SweetWaterBlue said:
I would add to that a good plane and a shooting board, as Pete was alluding to (he has a good video on it which I cant seem to find at the moment). Before you can use a miter box, you have to get a good straight edge. On a small piece of stock, I can't think of a better way to get a flat edge, and eventually a square one, than a plane. Add a shooting board, and you don't really even need the miter box.
Click to expand...
That's certainly true to a point...... if your well skilled with a hand saw you don't need the miter box.
When making critical small parts, I still like to use a miter box to keep everything lined up. A block of wood clamped square to the work piece to help guide the saw will also do the job.
I assumed John. you're already starting with a flat/square edge.
 
On my overhead router come rocket ship I am going to have a head above and one below, mega 2.5hp jobbies... I'll never catch up with Jim Olson. BTW Chuck, how does he do that headstock with the binding on the back. Clever but unnecessary and weird looking.
 
Moore Bettah Ukuleles said:
Jim Olsen, of Olsen Guitars, has 60 routers. His router table has six routers mounted in it.
Click to expand...
Chuck, just wanted to say thanks for the Olson reference. Wow! Had not seen his web page. Now I understand. A router for every setup is quite the luxury not to mention Fadal.
Funny though. Didn't see a spoke shave, a draw knife or even a humble block plane.
Certainly a different approach.
 
Jim would rather buy a new router than change a router bit. He builds 50 to 60 guitars a year and his work shop is the epitome of a one one man production shop. (He does have one apprentice who does the grunt work, like scraping bindings.) The biggest tip I've gotten from him is to set aside production days (or weeks) where you just make parts, necks, bridges, fret boards, bracings, etc; all the parts you need for 6 months worth of production. It makes the building process flow so much better when you can simply grab the parts you need rather than to stop, tool up, and make one of anything.
 
That is good advice. I'm moving shop soon having packed 6 months work into 3 so I should have the time to try that one chuck. Have you seen Peter Lieberman's post - 300 ukes in production plus 27 custom jobs. Is he back with a small workforce at Maui Music or is he doing this all himself? You can reply if you are reading this Pete :)
 
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