Arch top soprano for Daniel

Bradford

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I am starting to build an arch top uke for Daniel. It will be a concert size body with a soprano scale. Here are some pics of me making the top. The one picture shows me holding the top under a light. You can see how the thickness is graduated.

Brad
 

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Just curious Brad; about how long does it take to carve the top inside and out with those Ibex planes?
And perhaps more importantly, how do you know when to stop? I don't see any marks.
I've always wanted to carve an archtop guitar.... even have a couple of maple blanks.
Just never got back to it.
 
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I had bookmatched and profiled the top a couple of weeks ago. It took me two hours to carve it today. I take it to about 80% carved using a 4" angle grinder with a 24 grit disc. That takes about 20 minutes. The next 15%, I use the fingerplanes, that takes about an hour. The remaining 5% is done using scrapers and sand paper. The maple back will take about 50% longer. Keep in mind, I have been doing this for 25 years, it used to take me two days to carve a mandolin top.

Brad
 
I like that picture where you can see the graduated thickness. Pretty cool!
 
That's one of the reasons I didn't follow through on the project. It was going to take forever to hand carve and chisel through that rock hard maple.
I also considered a router free hand and marking out land areas for various levels on the blank. But would still leave a lot of carving to do.
Do you use a pneumatic or electric right angle grinder?
 
I use an electric angle grinder. As power tools go, they are pretty cheap. I f you have a router, step routing is a good way of eliminating a lot of the excess quickly. Also, if you lay out your topo lines carefully, it can give you an accurate basic shape to work with. I'll step route the maple back and take some pics of Daniel's so you can see the process.

Brad
 
Here are some pics of how I step routed Daniel's maple back. It weighed one pound when I started and now weighs eight oz., so it is about 50% carved. It took me about a half an hour, so it was time well spent.

Brad
 

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Here are some pics showing how I finished carving the back. After step routing, I move on to the angle grinder, which takes things to about 80% carved. Then out come the fingerplanes. With bigleaf maple, it is easiest to carve across the grain. I like to finish carving the inside of the top or back first, and then shape the back to the proper thickness and shape using the inside as a guide. The one picture shows me holding the back under a bright light with a straightedge across it. The shadow created by the ruler allows you to see the curve of the back. I use this technique to eliminate any bumps or hollows while carving. All told, it took me about three hours and twenty minutes to carve the back.

Brad
 

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I can't believe it has been over two momths since my last post on this. I'm seriously behind on this project. Anyway, here are a couple more pics; sides are bent, end blocks installed, linings for the top in and the top glue on.

Brad
 

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I'm changing my name to Daniel lol
I like your f-hole shape....very classy
 
I can't believe it has been over two momths since my last post on this. I'm seriously behind on this project.

It's because the "fun build" has been taking up too much bench space, isn't it. Sorry about that. Hey, while we're on the subject, if you don't like my fretboard (or if it doesn't work for any reason) let me know, and I'll crank out another.

Nice work on the arch top, btw. I have some douglas fir blanks I picked up a while back with an arch top or six in mind ($20 for three 2" thick quarter sawn douglas fir blanks--the grain's not the tightest, but I figured they'd be a good place to start).
 
Hey Matt, The things you sent have arrived in Seattle, wife will bring them to me on Thursday. Doug fir makes very good tops for arch top instruments. It is stiffer than spruce so it can be carved a bit thinner. Paired with maple back and sides, you can make a nice looking and sounding uke. The F holes on the arch top are Daniel's design, and he is being very nice about my being slow.

Brad
 
Now that the Uketoberfest in Eugene is over, I can get back to this. Here are some more progress pics. The top has been glued to the sides, tone bars are glued in, the top of the body and soundholes are bound. I'll attach the neck next and then glue on the back.

Brad
 

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Mondo cool. I love the cutlass style f holes.
 
Got the back and the neck on.

Brad
 

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