"no more nails" wood glue

Lardy Fatboy

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I have a problem with a Loose neck that needs reglueing and i have seen lots of advice on different sorts of glue to use for this from the exotic witch's brew to ordinary sorts of wood glue. But I was wondering about "no More nails" glue? It has always done a good job for me glueing wood in more mundain tasks like fixing chairs.

Anyone any comments or experience?
 
You're not giving enough information here.

Uke brand, model, and age?

Type of neck joint?

Type of finish?

Your level of experience working on instruments?

My immediate reaction is "don't". The best glues for instrument building and repair are hot hide glue or LMI white glue for many joints, epoxy for a few joints where you don't want to introduce water into the wood, and superglue for very selected applications.

I don't know what a witch's brew glue is unless you regard hot hide glue in that manner.
 
The Brand is Eddy Finn so Standard chinese fair its a tenor that got damaged in the post (I'm still waiting to find out if the shop will do anything because they packed it badly, I know the Post office won't, but I thought I would start the investigation process for if they don't)

The neck joint is flush to the body with some kind of Circular Dowl going into the body (below should link to pictures but not very good ones as my camera is not very good)
https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=633177bee3096311&page=play&resid=633177BEE3096311!536

The finish is Satin
My level of experience is low

Witches brew is own reciepe hot hide glue (first go out and skin a cow, this must be doing on the 2nd new moon after the vernal equinox... and so on)

no more nails dries white but i don't know if its polyvinyl though
 
The problem is that the fingerboard is still glued on and you're not going to be able to clean off old glue and get glue into the dowel hole in the body very easily. Gluing endgrain wood...the heel...directly to the sides is probably not going to cut it.

That should be considered a warranty job unless it was damaged in shipping, in which case it's a shipping insurance job.

I'd be tempted to put a strap button on the heel and run a long sheetrock screw through the heel and into the neck block given the cost of doing a really proper full neck reset.

One of the issues with modern glues is that they'll probably mess up the finish by sticking to it.
 
So, the US rep for Eddie Finn is a member here UU name: eddyfinnguy

Give him a shout/PM - hard to imagine that this isn't a warranty issue, the brand only came out this year anyway.
 
I think "no more nails" can help. I purchased a 300ml tube for around £3.00 from my local Wilkinsons and I received 50% extra free which was a fantastic bargain. The tube is a strong plastic with the instructions on how to use the No More Nails as well as a hanging tab for hanging up in store and it has a screw top lid to avoid it drying out.
To use this is pretty simple just ensure that the surface is clean and dry before use and then a 6mm bead will cover an 11mm area and if you use a primer then this can even be painted after it's been allowed to dry for 24 hours. The screw top is very helpful and it does make it easier to use and stop it from drying out even a little bit. There is no strong smell when this is being used and here are some of the things that I have used it for in the past.
 
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Go for it and never take the uke to a luthier for any subsequent work if that doesn't work or if you screw up the finish. I'd consider it an abomination, but it's not my uke. I'm just a luthier with 47 years experience who was trained the old way in the use of adhesives that are reversible and repairable. It's not that I don't use modern adhesives, but this is just a bad, half a..ed idea. Doing it correctly would not be that big a deal. Having it taken care of as a warranty issue is what makes most sense. That original dowel glue joint was obviously faulty.

It reminds me of my 1918 Martin 00-18 on which the bridge pulled up. The repair was with white silicone tile sealant and two wood screws...one a round head, the other a flat head. Must have been a bass/treble thing. Anyway, it took a nice guitar and made a restoration project out of it. The guitar was found that way in my brother-in-law's parents' attic.
 
I'd be wary of messing with it before seeing if you can get redress from the supplier who packed it badly.

If the supplier was a reseller, not the manufacturer, and if the damage is definitely due to postal mishap, then you may not be covered under warranty. But I'd still take the time to ask the manufacturer's rep.

I'm not familiar with the brand, so excuse my ignorance here... If it is a cheap, laminated Chinese uke at the level of Makala or Mahalo, then if it were mine I would happily attempt a careful repair with LMI or Titebond (but not their awful liquid hide stuff) - or a screw fix as suggested. You'd have little to lose.

If, on the other hand the uke is a step up - perhaps equivalent to a good Kala, or a Mainland or Ohana, or better - then I'd say to heed Mr Turner's words. Free advice from a respected luthier is always worth listening to.

If the uke is worth the cost of a proper repair then get a pro to do it.
 
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