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Thread: Replacing a Soprano Bridge

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
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    4,840

    Default Replacing a Soprano Bridge

    I wasnt happy with a bridge I recently fitted..it was 1mm off the centre line of the fretboard.. not a lot! but the more I looked at it the worse it seemed to be..so in the end I decided to replace it.
    And while I was at it I decided to take a few pictures of the method i used. just in case some new starters need to do the same one day.
    First I masked off the area with some card material (cornflake box will do quite well) and then I sliced off the old bridge with a Stanley Fatmax Dowell saw.
    removing bridge.jpg

    Bridge sawn off leaving about 1mm of material still to remove
    bridge off.jpg
    Then with the aid of a biggish soldering iron I found at a "Car Boot sale" a few years ago I heated up one end of the remainder of the bridge material.
    Now i'm carefully lifting up the heated end of the sliver with a 1/2"chisel I then proceed like this till it's all come away from the body.
    lifting bridge.jpg
    Ready for new Bridge.
    ready for new saddle.jpg
    Last edited by Timbuck; 02-23-2018 at 05:24 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    McDonough, GA
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    4,395

    Default

    Ken, did you use HHG on that bridge?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc_J View Post
    Ken, did you use HHG on that bridge?
    No it's Titebond.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
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    Default Part 2

    Now i've removed all the old bridge..removed the card masking and cleaned off all the old glue.


    Now i masked up the position of the new bridge making sure it's in the right place (this time)
    (I made the new bridge slightly longer to cover up the footprint of the old position)


    Now the New bridge is glued in place and clamped with my Acme special bridge clamp.


    And here we are job done all back in line.. No damage to the French Polish ...and I'll be able to sleep tonight.
    Last edited by Timbuck; 10-09-2011 at 10:15 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Proxima B
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    1,936

    Default

    New one looks a little crooked to me. Just kidding. Beautiful Ukulele.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Roseville, CA
    Posts
    1,827

    Default

    Great info Ken.

    BTW, I wanted to send you a Private Message but your box is full. Can you clear some room or is there an email I can use to contact you off-board?
    --------------------------------------
    Dominator

    Dominator Ukulele Tabs
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    Practice Makes Practice Perfect

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dominator View Post
    Great info Ken.

    BTW, I wanted to send you a Private Message but your box is full.
    I wondered why no one was talking to me? ..it is now done.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Hudson, MA
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    1,507

    Default

    As always....you make mahogany look so good!!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Stockton on Tees..North East UK.
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ksquine View Post
    As always....you make mahogany look so good!!
    I have to confess it's not me that puts on the finish ........ thats done by Mrs Timbuck

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Wales, UK
    Posts
    5,098

    Default

    Ken
    If you are not going to use locating pins Frank Ford's suggestion of creating a 'field' with several pieces of tape is another good idea. BTW I've seen one of your ukes recently going the same way as one of mine - being played so much they are now down to bare wood! Mine had the entire finish played off it and what was once a blonde koa uke was almost black with sweat and grime - I didn't want to touch it - yuk!!!

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