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Thread: Pore filling timber with Z Poxy

  1. #1
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    Question Pore filling timber with Z Poxy

    Building my first timber bodied uke (Resonator Tenor) and am starting to think about the finishing process.
    Done some research and pore filling with Z Poxy looks like the go. Any body had any experience with it and as I want to stain the mahogany back and sides a dark tobacco brown color was wondering do I stain before I fill or fill then stain.

    Tim W
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Nice one - I've used it but have changed to Smith's Industries finishing cure....better working properties.

  3. #3
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    I just watched this topic on youtube -- it was very informative.

    http://youtu.be/YYHxMg7n9cI

  4. #4
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    I read something here by Chuck Moore that he used epoxy for grain filling so I gave it a try. Z Poxy was what I had and I gotta say that this is the way I will do finishes from now on. The epoxy gave a depth to the finish that I had never gotten before. I've been using a Bondo type squeegee and it works good for me. I'd think you'd have to stain before putting on the epox.
    My Real name is Terry Harris

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by resoman View Post
    I read something here by Chuck Moore that he used epoxy for grain filling so I gave it a try. Z Poxy was what I had and I gotta say that this is the way I will do finishes from now on. The epoxy gave a depth to the finish that I had never gotten before. I've been using a Bondo type squeegee and it works good for me. I'd think you'd have to stain before putting on the epox.
    I've been using medium ca lately. A little harder to apply but it's a lot quicker.
    Chuck Moore
    Moore Bettah Ukuleles
    http://www.moorebettahukes.com

  6. #6

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    I would stain first, and touch up stain before the last zpoxy coat if necessary.
    I use zpoxy and like it fairly well although if not sanded all the way down so only the pores are full it does add a very slight amber cast. I usually don't mind that. I have tried different squeegees but like old credit cards best. I do two coats, and very rarely three. After sanding the last coat smooth I mix a batch of zpoxy with about 30% zpoxy to 70% denatured alcohol (the stuff you buy in cans). I apply this very thin wash coat with a clean cotton makeup remover pad I steal from my daughter. Before lacquering I sand very lightly with white-non-woven-KNP-4085.jpg one of these pads. You don't want to sand back thru the zpoxy coat.
    Last edited by Michael Smith; 11-02-2011 at 08:01 AM.

  7. #7
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    Watch out for "amine blush" when using epoxies as sealers or pore fillers.

    I'm now using Smith's CEPS first, then System 3 coating epoxy. Both are no or very low amine blush epoxies made to go under subsequent finishes. The Smiths penetrates a bit more; the System 3 fills pores better. I figure a coat of each is great.

  8. #8
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    I did a series of videos to demo pore filling. This is the first. I use WEST Systems as it's what I'm familiar with, and I can get locally.


  9. #9
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    Allen.

    That parlor that you built on these vids is what gave me the idea of the very dark back. I think with the tiger myrtle binding on the body, fretboard and peghead it will look great. aslo going to use a purfling product from Petros guitars that looks pretty cool. Expensive but why not.

    http://www.purflex.net/Purflex/Purfl..._purfling.html

    Thanks guys for all your help for a new builder. I can see this getting addictive.

    Tim.



    [QUOTE=Allen;794787]I did a series of videos to demo pore filling. This is the first. I use WEST Systems as it's what I'm familiar with, and I can get locally.
    Last edited by morpheous; 11-02-2011 at 01:06 PM.

  10. #10
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    That is really interesting material. I'm going to order some

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